posted January 11, 2002 11:52 PM
go4win I been wondering the samething. One of the other crews said a spring came off theres and did alot of damage because of it. I see that PAW sales a lock out kit so you dont have to weld it. when you welded yours, did you have any problems with starting?
posted January 23, 2002 02:21 AM
You don't want to weld out your advance. While your actually racing it makes no difference whatsoever as long as you have your timing curve set correctly. Like Rover said, have your mechanical advance give you about 25 -28 degrees by 3000 RPM, AND NO MORE PAST 3000. Take it to a quality shop that can curve it for you and make sure they test and verify that the advance is done by 3000 RPM. This way when racing you will always have full advance in your racing RPM range, but the motor will still start easily and save your battery. Idle at 10 - 14 degrees to give you what you want at 3000. ( 35 - 42 degrees)
posted January 25, 2002 12:52 AM
YAZ, at times I did have starting problems. This engine was esp. hard to start at first. ( 290 psi of compression might have something to do with that.) Previous engines had different compression and cam combos and started OK. I think I am going to stick with the mechanical adavance. Thanx for the replies.
posted January 25, 2002 05:52 PM
I basically agree with 3Xracing. You want a mechanical advance to assist in starting and a smooth transition from idle but one that fully advances by 2800 or 3000 rpm.