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Author Topic:   Welding the advance in a distributor
jammin
Administrator
posted February 04, 2001 12:17 PM
Have any of you guys done this. I have heard of some guys doing it, to make sure the timing stays correct and consistent.....anyone else heard of this?


ststock4
Member
posted February 04, 2001 12:24 PM
Most of the cars at my track weld the advance in at about 28 degrees. It is done for just the reasons you stated. I had my distributor locked in, cost me about $150. My engine builder also recommended it.


iaracer
Member
posted February 04, 2001 12:42 PM
I welded mine and have had no problems for 1.5 years.


awkwardjeff
Member
posted February 04, 2001 12:44 PM
Yes, People do this all the time, and for the reason you stated.......you break a pin and the timing is messed up and melts a motor for you.......things like this happen every week at the local level.......
Put the advance plate in the center of it's travel, then weld in place......this is called phasing the distributor.......this is to get the pick-up points in the distributor lined up at the same time the rotor is pointed at the post for the plug wire.....It will work fine without phasing but the life of the cap and rotor will be shorter....
The only thing is you need to spin the motor over before turning the ignition on to fire the motor.........IF YOU DON'T THE MOTOR WON'T START AND COULD DAMAGE THE STARTER/FLYWHEEL..........
Some people out there my not have the ignition wired to do this and may need to rewire the starter panel.........Jeff


jammin
Administrator
posted February 04, 2001 03:13 PM
Why would it matter where you set the advance before you weld it since your just setting the timing statically anyway?

Once you set it, it is there. You will not have to bring the RPM's up on the motor to set it either.




BK19
Member
posted February 04, 2001 03:54 PM
i weld mine i just pull the rod all the way out or push it in really so it is at full advance then weld it; then just time my engine to what it needs to be set at like 36 degrees


widebody
Member
posted February 04, 2001 05:27 PM
They make locking kits that do the same thing as welding the advance. They can also be found in early 80's distributors. The factory used little plastic locking plates. I wouldnt recomend this piece. The aftermarket kits are cheap.
Does anyone modify the rotors for better alignments, Ive seen this but have never tried it. I know it make the rotor allign better to the cap and provides a better spark path, but is it worth it?
(pour attempt at art work)
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Pit Bull
Member
posted February 04, 2001 08:58 PM
Jammin, I thought the same thing.....I brought this subject up at a different site about this time last year.
I did go to other sites BEFORE I found this great place.........anyway, It was explained to me.......and if you don't phase the advance plate before welding, the rotor will not be pointing straight at the post in the cap when the pick-up for the ignition fires........this will make the current have to jump from the rotor to the post in the cap.......loosing some of it's voltage, so the voltage drops at the plugs.......also because this spark jumps in the cap the life of cap and rotor are shortened.........THAT'S HOW THE GUY EXPLAINED IT TO ME..........
I thought it wouldn't hurt to do it his way.
other people joined in on the post and said the same thing??????? so I thought they are smarter then me........I never took the time to prove they are right or not......I did it their way and had no problems......
Jeff


jammin
Administrator
posted February 04, 2001 11:33 PM
I went out and took an old hei apart to look at this....the gear on the bottom of a distributor moves the advance plate....not the rotor plate....when the springs and weights advance in a distributor, then rotor plate moves from the original position, not the advance plate.....the rotor plate and the pickup are on the same part.....they move together......I doesnt matter where you weld it at. It stays in line with the rotor(same piece) reguardless on an Hei. It took me two trips to the shop to see it...LOL

jammin



chomme
Member
posted February 06, 2001 01:13 AM
about what degree is everyone trying to run burning alcohol.


widebody
Member
posted February 06, 2001 04:39 PM
good call jammin.
they make kits that phase the mechanical advance also, I think thats what jeff was refering to.

Ill find those lock kits, its been a while. I usually weld it and cut the vacuume pot off and RTV the area with a cap on and a piece of tape on the cap, when it dries take the tape off and it forms an exact fit plug. never have haad problems, but like you guys im checking this stuff now while i have the time.

jklostermann
Member
posted February 06, 2001 08:54 PM
do mine like that ENGINE BUILDER RECOMMENDED IT


4ord
Member
posted February 06, 2001 09:42 PM
Looking at the HEI I was looking at....the pickup and the rotor mounting plate are all one piece. There is no way to change the location between the pickup and the rotor itself since it is all in one piece. Therefore, the rotor can not be out of alignment anywhere you weld it because the advance movment is indicated in the rotor/pickup movement.....not the advance plate/gear movement.


4ord
Member
posted February 07, 2001 07:45 PM
I may try one of these too...If you dont spin the motor....I guess it just tries to kick back....correct?



awkwardjeff
Member
posted February 13, 2001 12:32 PM
Jammin, That's correct........I've seen people break the start off the motor doing this, also seen the bolts get pulled out of the block..........either way it's going to run into money and time to fix either problem.
With a Tilton starter or one of the same kind you will bend the shaft inside the starter.........but it beats the heck out of the other things that could happen......the above problems were created buy running stock starters and not having them tight enough........in my opinion
Jeff


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