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Author Topic:   355, 383, 377, 406CI ENGINES
SLIDE JOB-N.Y. STYLE
Member
posted September 19, 2000 03:21 AM
I AM NEW TO RACING AND WAS CURIOUS AS TO WHAT BLOCK YOU START WITH TO GET THESE ENGINES. I'M PRETTY SURE THE 355 IS A 350 BORED TO A 355. AND THAT THE 383 IS A 350 WITH A 400 CRANK. I THINK MAYBE THE 377 MIGHT BE A 400 WITH A 350 CRANK NOT REAL SURE ON THAT ONE THOUGH. AND THE 406 I IS A 400 BORED. I DON'T WANT TO SOUND LIKE AN IDIOT BUT CURIOUSITY IS GETTING THE BEST OF ME. AND ALSO MAYBE A LITTLE INPUT ON WHICH MOTOR YOU THINK IS THE BEST AND WHY.

THANKS
SLIDE


chomme
Member
posted September 19, 2000 09:41 AM
CHOMME,
THANKS FOR THE INPUT. I THINK THAT 383 MIGHT BE THE WAY TO GO.
WHAT CLASS DO YOU RUN?
ALSO WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON THE 358.

THANKS

SLIDE

chomme
Member
posted September 21, 2000 03:51 PM
A PROBLEM WITH THE 383 IS IF YOU ARE NOT AN EXPERIENCED BUILDER SOME CLEARENCES CAN BE A PROBLEM. ALSO LOCALLY MOST OF THE TOP CARS RUN 406'S THEY HAVE MORE TORQUE THAN THE 355'S AND 377'S. ALSO ARE CHEAPER THAN 377'S AND 383'S. 355'S WOULD BE THE CHEAPEST AND MOST COMMON FOR USED PARTS. I ONLY KNOW OF ONE PERSON AT OUR LOCAL TRACK THAT RUNS 377'S AND HE USES IT BECAUSE HE GOT IT IN A TRADE. BUY THE WAY I DON'T THINK HE HAS EVER WON. THE LOCAL TRACK MENTIONED ABOVE IS A LONG 1/4-SHORT 3/8 MILE BANKED TRACK RUNNING 3400 LB STREET STOCKS. ALSO WE USE HEADERS ALUMINUM INTAKES AND 4 BRL CARBS SO WE HAVE THE FLOW FOR THE LARGER ENGINES

[This message has been edited by VIPER000 (edited September 22, 2000).]

chomme
Member
posted September 26, 2000 12:27 PM
That brings up a good point, on a 383 or 406, be sure to check the clearance between the rods and the block (there will need to be clearancing made for this) as well as the rods clearing the cam. I am running a crane solid cam and my rods required no clearancing. They are the new GM PM 5.7" rods. Also, the block did require clearancing by the bottom of the bores to clear the rods. I paid my machine shop to clearance the block, file fit the rings, and fully assemble/blueprint the short block, it ran me $200 which I think was very worthwhile. To give you an idea, my machine shop did the block (bored, line honed, decked, cam bearings, freeze plugs), clearanced the block, file fit the rings, fully assembled the short block, and balanced the assembly...and the total machine shop bill was about $620.

--Chad

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