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Author Topic:   Weight relocation questions
fairlaniac
Member
posted October 24, 2002 09:51 AM
I’m hoping you folks can help with some weight relocation questions. We have a 1979 Monte Carlo that we’ve run this year. It was a used Enduro/Bomber car before. We took a lot of what we learned from here as well as trialing things ourselves. We run 200 lappers (Williams Grove, PA) here and actually led about 50 laps of the last race until a RF tire went away and a RR shock came loose, so we know we can get to the front and run there but we need to find out how to stay there without tearing up tires or the car going away from us too much. We are going to build a new car for next year and would like to know how to get the car up to more desirable weight in the corners. Our current running set up with fuel and driver is as follows:

Dry/slick ½ mile track

Total weight – 3346
Front weight – 1896 (56.6%)
Rear weight – 1450 (43.4%)
Left weight – 1731 (51.7%)
Right weight – 1615 (48.3%)

RF – 909#
1250# spring
3” offset wheel, 225/70/15 tire (must run 70 series tires)

LF – 987#
1000# spring
3.5” offset wheel, 215/70/14 tire

RR – 706#
@250# stock spring
3.5” offset wheel, 235/70/15 tire

LR – 744#
@275# stock spring
2” offset wheel, 225/70/15 tire

We have used Smith’s “Street Stock Suspension Technology” book for tips and would like to get the car within the weigh percentages that he recommends. How can we get weigh off the RF and moved around to where needed? Since we are at @3350# already we don’t want to add weigh if possible. If anyone knows how to get about 200# off the RF, please let us know. The car is pretty bare up front and have no idea on what to move or get rid of for better weight distribution. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for the help.

------------------
Doug
Ford Guy Workin' on a... gulp, Chevy!
"Lift for a second, that's where you finish!"


racer17j
Member
posted October 24, 2002 01:49 PM
can you run weight jacks or spacers? i used a exaust clamp for a spacer this year and man did that make a difference in my setups.also play with your stagger also air pressure will change it. we spent a whole day changing air pressures and stagger to get mine right and man was it worth it. your %'s look pretty close to mine when we started i put that spacer on the lr to get the cross weight up should be around 50-52 you have 49 right now. where is your fuel cell placed how big is it and aslo where is the battery located?

[This message has been edited by racer17j (edited October 24, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by racer17j (edited October 24, 2002).]

rico 08
Member
posted October 24, 2002 02:23 PM
if you would like to take 200 lbs off rt front use a 2" offset wheel on rf it's not the best way to do it but it's easy to change back to original setup if it hurts the handling,one question,if you have to run 70's why run only a 225/15 on rt and 215/14 on lf that is a lot of front stagger which will only add lr and rf weight,i'd definitely run a larger tire on rf and for that matter all the way around yes a 255 or 275/70 will be a big tire(dia)but the width will really help you "running out of tire"


fairlaniac
Member
posted October 24, 2002 08:45 PM
No spacers or weight jackers allowed.

We tried a 2 inch offset on the RF, only made about 20 lbs. difference. We also made an adjustable swap bar end link for both front sides and played with the weight, not engough to transfer more than 18-20 lbs. We tried a bunch of little adjustments with nothing more than 20 lbs. here or there difference. Our battery on the old car in on the RR of the interior and will be moved to the LF on the new car. Fuel cell is a 32 gallon and located 6 inches below the trunk floor and centered. We'll be moving the new one to the left and down enough that if we were to lose a wheel, the fuel cell frame will not drag. Another thing we'll do differently is we are allowed to secure our bumpers. We have 3/16 cable on the rear. We're gonna jump to 1/2" link chain on the new car. chain is a lot heavier than cable! We did not build our current car but looking at the front end, we're not sure we would do much differently. We really would like to unload about 150-200 lbs from the RF. Our stagger works well for our car. We've experimented with various sizes of tires on all corners and noted the weight changes, all minor. We're wondering if our front spring weight is to much from side to side (1250 RF and 1000 LF). We're thinking of getting an 1100 pounder for the LF? Steve Smiths book makes it sound so easy to move weight around but never really mention how on a car without movable weight.

Thanks for the responses, looking for more as well.

------------------
Doug
Ford Guy Workin' on a... gulp, Chevy!
"Lift for a second, that's where you finish!"


racer17j
Member
posted October 24, 2002 09:49 PM
put your battery in the trunk not up front you are down on tail weight now as is that 50-60# will help alot back there. as far as springs go i run 1150rf,925lf,250rr,200lr my car weights 3100 with me and 22 gallons of fuel in it.but i did alot of gutting on my car to make it as light as i legally could do you have the stock radiator suport still up front if so can you take it out and put bars up there instead that will cut alot of weight down on the front end too. but i think moving that fuel cell and the battery to the trunk will help you out alot


madmodshoe
Member
posted October 24, 2002 10:09 PM
ANYTHING that you can do to lighten the front end will help. Move the driver back further in the car and put extensions on the pedals. Cut the inner structure of the hood out with a spot weld cutter and "trim" it before you tack weld it back in. Cut the ends off of bolts. REMEMBER-- ounces make pounds!
To what extent are you allowed to "gut" the car? What about aluminum components? Water pump? Radiator?
Run light weight racing wheels. They do bend easier, but they also save suspension pieces. Lightweight is fast, but it does come at price.


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