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Author Topic:   The Basics
posted November 24, 2001 01:47 AM
Where would a beginner start at when building a bomber...something that would be competitive,a good starting point and not bankrupt you...?
what type of body would be best...?

Better to build you own or buy one ready to go...?

How do you go about setting up the suspension..just air pressure and spring rates..?

And what type of motor..what rpms are they usually pushed...what horsepower range..?

Anything else you all can add i would greatly appreciate it...

posted November 24, 2001 02:27 AM
this is a very broad post chevy it realy depense on what the rules are at the track you will run at but 95 % of the guys on here will tell you the same thing buy a good used car and try it out for a couple years then as you get more seat time and knowledge of set ups and stuff then build a new one. you do have the right idea the biggest "trick " to these cars are shocks and springs and tire pressure. as for the type of car let us know what rules you are running ie. wheelbase engine limits and type of track will give us all a better idea to help lead you in the right direction

posted November 24, 2001 03:04 PM
here is a site for the track i would run at...

if you could look at the rules and give a little incite i would appreciate it...

posted November 24, 2001 09:38 PM
Thanks for the help...
so what kind of motors are typically run in bombers and what rpm's to they usually crank at...?
thanks again

posted November 28, 2001 10:04 PM
that track is a good one as the rules have
not changed since thge track opened.most of the fast cars are running dart or iron eagle headed 406s however these same fast cars have ran there since it opened and are really dialed in handling wise. the track is slick so a good 355 that will run all year and let you learn and work on setup will do for a couple of years.metric cars are most prevalent but camaro and novas will beat them if you know how to set up a leaf car(easy to hook up) get a good rochester as this is all the rules allow (several people
run severely bored out carbs)a good place to find them is ask guys who have moved up to street stock or mod, use the retreaded tires
one set will last all year barring problems.
several good cars from that track are for sale at this time of year do to front runners building new 6.20 to 6.30 gear, run a glide with hollow convertor see Randy Ross in Vanceburg for details, rules are vague only requiring that convertor is present and car can idle in gear. at least go triple disc with no wieghts are allowed with no minimum put huge battery in trunk area and heavy Rear frame (hide lead in frame rails) since weight jacks are illegal
use adjustable sway bar link to adjust wedge (or as some do hidden jacks in front spring buckets) with leaf car set with lowering blocks, coil cars use water pump pulleys between spring and mount.anything in the gray area do carefully as they do look.
this class is rough not because of dirty driving but because of high power,hard tires, limited suspension mods allowed, and relative inexperience of some newer drivers, it is a great class to learn in and you will have a ball.

posted December 03, 2001 10:53 AM
Thanks again for the posts.

I've been out to Randy's garage...His dad and him were putting the sheet metal in my buddies 55 chevy....Looked awesome when it was done...
Would you happen to know where any cars are for sale at?

Donnie Ross
posted December 03, 2001 05:59 PM
see Randy's brother Bob he can find one,has one i think, wayne moffits was for sale, brushcreek has the same rules exept allows 2 bbl holleys and wieght jacks, bob builds killer rochesters for this class and he will help with a good set up for you to start with. tell him donnie sent you

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