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Author Topic:   4 link vz Zlink setup
AMRA96
Member
posted December 27, 2000 03:10 PM
For all those in the know this question is for you. could somebody please tell me the difference in handling characteristics between the conventional 4 link and the zlink.Does it affect forward bite in a positive or negative way and does it affect loose/tight conditions any help would be appreciated


MOD RACER#93
Member
posted December 27, 2000 06:57 PM
yes, with a true z-link the axle moves in a vertical path thus eliminating roll steer but most z-links that i have seen are are not true z-links so i don't see the reason that they run the z-link vs a three link. Most drivers tend to think that the z-links are a looser set-up than a 4-bar especially on entry, but i think they are actually tight in nature and the drivers are shaking the cars on entry which causes the loose condition. As far as the 4-bar setup, i think they work very well in the right hands. 4-bars tend to be very sensative to track changes and your chassis man has to really stay on top of the car to keep it close. I think many modifieds are using too short of links on modifieds with 4-bars also, i think with an 8" tire the short bars make the chassis react too fast and the tires can't take it. The general concensus is that the 4-bars tend to work better on a short stop and go track where the z-link cars are better on longer momentum tracks. But if you understand what you have you can be competative with just about anything.


dirtracer14
Member
posted December 28, 2000 11:34 PM
Ok now you guys got me thinking?? I was all ready to cut the back half off my 3 link and put a floated zlink with the mount for a 4 bar also! With what i just read it made me think my car is pretty fast now with a 3link and a progressive pull bar lower links only 16" about 5 degrees up on both. At the end of the season i wasnt getting the forward bite like the zlink or the 4 bar cars therefor the change. Is there somthing im missing to get more foward bite out of my 3 link? The normal travel on my 3 link was just over 2" the last few races i was only getting half that. Any info on this would be great befor i go cutting and spending alot of $$$ to find out i could have got what i wanted with what i had. Thanks, Craig#14


dirtracer14
Member
posted December 29, 2000 11:09 AM
Im not wanting the worms!! ) I know that the rear stear is there so i do compensate for it as much as i can. Both springs are on top of the rearend with 200 lr 175 rr. The track is mild bank 3/8 that will hold moisture for the main on most nights at the top, we also run the hossier emod tires 1 compound a-40. I have a 95 shock rr and 95-6 lr 74 lf 75 rf with 58% tail with 80 pd split 48.5% cross at start of main.The car i have is a old jones car not sure if you heard of em. Oh ya the panhard is 30" behind the rearend with about 15 or 20 degrees. I was checking out the info on the j bar mounted in front, but it didnt seen like it would work in my case. The pull bar was set when i got it and i havnt moved it since then.I think there was about 1/2 inch preload in it. Thanks again.


dirtrackracer
Member
posted December 29, 2000 04:56 PM
If your travel went from 2" to 1",then it is almost always that you have something bound up,and it can be hard to find.Check all heims,shocks especially damper shock.


MOD RACER#93
Member
posted December 29, 2000 08:16 PM
Dirtracer you say your pull bar was set when you got it, I dont know how long you have had it but I would dissasemble it and clean and lube everything, make sure its working free. Then assemble and add desired preload. I had this happen with brand new afco, it had about 3" of preload, wich is probably too much for dry?? and I didnt know it but they use that dang plastic piston, and some other junk, I had just got rid of their binding up sliders! Anyway I only run preload on heavy tracks.


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