posted December 17, 2000 02:30 PM
ANOTHER THING YOU COULD TRY IS A 90/10 SHOCK MOUNTED ABOVE THE PULLBAR FLAT WITH 2 BISCUITS BETWEEN THE SHOCK BODY AND THE THREADED ON END ,WHEN YOU GET OFF THE GAS THE 90/10 LOADS THE SHOCK INSTEAD OF DOWN LOADING ON THE PULLBAR TRYING TO UNLOAD THE TIRES. ACTS ABOUT LIKE BRAKE FLOATERS ,ALSO YOU CAN MOVE IT TO THE RIGHT ON DRY SLICK TO GAIN A TIGHTER ENTRY.LATER
[This message has been edited by LITTLEMAN (edited December 17, 2000).]
posted December 18, 2000 10:13 AM
personally i like floating the brakes mainly for adjustability, with floated brakes you can change entry handling without adversly effecting corner exit significanly. By running the left bar downhill it will tend to unload that side under braking and my cause wheel hop, i normially run the left bar between 0 and 5 degrees uphill and the right bar at 10 degrees uphill. I don't think the floaters are a big advantage they are just another tuning tool that if understood can benifit you, if you dont plan on usinf them for adjustment i wouldn't run them because they do add a little unsprung weight and are another possible source of a failure. As with everything else it all comes down to driver preference. Everything else on your setup seems to be in line with the typical 3-link set-up.