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Author Topic:   Specs/Drawings for Turn Plates
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted January 22, 2004 04:48 PM  
Anyone have any specs or drawings for turn plates. They are so expensive, yet seem easy to build, but I haven't seen what's all there. What I'm thinking is 2 pieces of metal with roller bearings in between. Any Ideas? Thanks

Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted January 23, 2004 09:45 PM  
I have considered making these also. I come from a furniture making background and I have seen some components which I think would work. Two pieces of wood (the stronger the better-like hichory)say 12" by 12", one inch thick, attached by a heavy duty lazy-susan (turn-table type device). Once these are made you have the ability to set the car on them and turn the front wheels left of right without any binding in the turning. The problem then is how to deal with the movement of the wheel when you compress or load the front end. The wheel will need to be able to move in toward the center line of the car or toward the outside of the car as in compression of the suspension. This problem is not as easy to deal with in a homemade device, but it can be handeled with the proper setup of some heavy duty draw slides like you might find in a big drawer of a snap-on tool box. this again would take another peice of 12by12 which sits on the floor and the two turn table peices sit on top of this device. I hopes this helps. Farmer

Donnie Ross
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted January 25, 2004 06:47 AM  
seen a set at harbor frieght for 49.00 this week

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted January 25, 2004 01:23 PM  

That would be great, but I can't find them! I looked on the Harbor Freight web site and all I found is the ones from Central Machinery which were 149.99. Which ones did you find? Can you give me the site? Below is the one I found.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 296
posted January 29, 2004 03:13 PM  
the cheap ones dont float, they only turn. wait till harbor freight offers free shipping, than get all the big heavy stuff sent. They were 149.00. they are heavy, they come in a mini crate. just like the 600 dollar ones just steel!!
Ill snap a picture if you need it, but just goto the web site.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted January 29, 2004 03:50 PM  
We just throw a piece of cardboard on the ground under the wheel.. youd be amazed at how much easier it turns that way.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted January 29, 2004 05:23 PM  
I have heard put sand then cardboard it will make it turn even easier.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted January 29, 2004 08:46 PM  
So Widebody you just got the 149.00 ones? I just didn't want to spend that kind of money. I've tried the cardboard thing. It works OK, I'd just like to have the plates. I just figured there would be some kind of specs out there to make them! Thanks guys for the input. Keep your eyes open for drawings if you see them!

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 296
posted January 31, 2004 01:24 PM  
ive had them a year now, Ill take some pictures and dimmensions, they could be built easy enough. Just the time, time=money.. The card board trick does work! used that before i got these...
ill post back tomorrow or monday with some pictures...

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted February 04, 2004 12:37 PM  
with those harbor freight turn plates, how high off the ground does that make your car set? Do you need to make something of equal height to compensate on the rear?

The nice thing about turn plates when setting your front end alignment is being able to see how many degrees you have turned your wheels to get proper caster settings. (20 degrees)

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 376
posted February 05, 2004 07:30 PM  
I had a guy tell me that he uses two 12"x12"
steel plates with grease smeared in between them. He said it works great. I haven't tried it yet.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 32
posted March 19, 2004 06:22 PM  
Im a little late getting on this one but I made a set about a month ago and I bought two ball bearing turn plates from Mc Master Carr and I think they cost me around 9.00 each, Then I used some 3/8 steel 14" circles from a local Laser shops drop material, then I machined the mounting holes and fastened one, then snuck a hole in the bottom plate to fasten through and tighten down the top plate so all screw heads are contained on the inside.

Then in the top plate, I machined a V and lucky me we have a decal machine at work and I drew up a degree decal and stuck them on the top side of the bottom plate, so now you can look down from the top at the V and see the degree markings.

When I got them from McMaster they seemd kinda cheesy and clunky but when you get weight on them they spin real nice.

If I had it to do over again I might attempt to round up some aluminum for the plate and Im sure there is other materials that could be used, the steel circles were easy for me to obtain. But they are heavy.

Hope this gives you some ideas.


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