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Author Topic:   need more input on paint
shaggy12
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted December 11, 2005 09:26 PM  
Last year I painted my car with a cheap paint from Ace Hardware called Rust Stop....similiar to Rustoleum or Krylon in gallon form. I mixed in a little mineral spirits and went for it. Personally, I think it turned out horrible. The white shows every dirty fingerprint and is hardly able to be cleaned. The blue seemed tobe somewhat "chalky" looking. This winter the exterior is getting a makeover. I've decided to use the same brand of paint due to the cost of it, $23.00/ gallon and can be mixed to whatever color of choice.
I'm needing a little info on this.....can I use just any off the shelf thinner, or do I need an actual reducer for automotive type paint? Are all thinners equal. What is wash thinner?? Can it be used? Do I need hardener?
I'm also considering using an HVLP gun. I've called Rust Stop, Rustoleum, and Krylon. None seem to be able to recommend an air pressure setting or a thinner/hardener ratio. I'm a little stuck.
And lastly, I would like to clear coat it.. I'm not exactly clear about the procedure on it. Do I spray it after the paint is dry or during a "flash" period. Do I need to sand the paint first? What grit of wet/dry paper do I use for the clear coat before buffing it??

Thanks Chad

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5492
posted December 11, 2005 10:10 PM  
I like the Rustoleum, we mixed it just as you would car paint with the thinner and the hardner and it turned out great. Eddie

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 388
posted December 12, 2005 03:25 AM  
Shaggy thats what we do for a living. If you are going to use the cheap paint just reduce it 25% with laquer thinner on all coats do not waste money clearcoating it it will not work. If you want to step up a little use Nason paint and its reducer and hardner if you buy a gal. its around 55.00 hardner 17.00 and reducer 14.00. This will give you a great shine and you wont want too clear it. As always its not just the paint but the prep work that makes a job look good and stick good. If you decide to go nason drop me a line and i will give you the numbers you need to look for. Marry Christmas Steve Dupree

sideways
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 742
posted December 12, 2005 05:48 AM  
If you use mineral spirt type of reducer hope your racing season dont start til next august.lol It takes along time to dry.I just used regular auto reducer and harderner for enamel.

cresswellracing
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted December 12, 2005 03:50 PM  
check with your local NAPA, they now sell a line of paint called "Cross-Fire". The cross fire line is much more reasonable priced and is still very good quality. The big difference in the Cross-Fire line is the color matching. The cross-fire line is not formulated to be an exact match to an OEM color. If you are refinishing an enitre car, this is perfect- good quality, and reasonable prices. All the products, reducer, clear coat, hardner, etc are much less expensive. Go with an acrylic enamel and you will have the high gloss you are looking for without the need to clear coat. If you are painting a car and you have exposed bare metal, be sure to use a good etching primer/filler before you paint. Good luck.

outlawstock17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1376
posted December 12, 2005 04:20 PM  
i use bulletin enamel. it's an alkyd enamel formulated for the outdoor advertising industry. i use foam rollers and a brush to paint it. it looks better than you'd think and it cost me about $50 to paint the whole car including graphics...

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 997
posted December 12, 2005 04:46 PM  
Steve have you ever tried the Nason reducer in the Rust-Oleum? I have found that the laquer thinner, altho it makes the paint dry faster and harder, doesn't shine nearly as well as reducing it with the Nason reducer. I have found there are three types of cheap enamels 1 Latex-oh just don't 2 Synthetic--I think this is what is referred to as "oil base" and 3 Acrylic That's the stuff from Lowes. TSC, Nason, Western, Rust-Oleum, Rust stop, ETC. Great fro stock car work and with the hardner I wouldn't be surprised if it wouldn't be +/- ok for a cheap paint job on the truck!

shaggy12
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted December 12, 2005 05:12 PM  
Shaggy thats what we do for a living. If you are going to use the cheap paint just reduce it 25% with laquer thinner on all coats do not waste money clearcoating it it will not work

With that thought, are we talking just some cheap thinner?? What about flash time?? How do I go about sanding/buffing the paint after it dries?? How many coats? Why can't I clear coat it?? Wouldn't that be cheaper than more paint??.....Sorry........you're going to have to walk me through this...

BTW...this is a fiberglass body that has been sanded with 320...thanks Chad

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 388
posted December 12, 2005 05:56 PM  
ok if its a nice body and you want it nice and its not peeling or chipped everywhere and you have sanded it with 320 you are right where you need to be!!!!!! Now seel it with 1986s dupont sealer and then get nason paint and hardner with aa fast reducer for like 100.00 bucks for paint,hardner, and reducer. Sealer is about 30.00 for a qaurt and let dry over nite for best results for shine;

If you want too use cheap paint thin use laquer thinner so it will dry and mix that 1 to 4

If using real paint then reduce with reducer as instructed on can. nason is 4/2/1

4 parts paint, two parts reducer, 1 part hardner and thats per gl.

If you need help we have verison just drop us a line and we will give you the numbers to get. 505-544-5474 Steve

Raz_900
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 647
posted December 12, 2005 06:24 PM  
I use Valspar synthetic enamel on mine. It's about the same as the Nason.. maybe a bit less. I use Kirker enamel primer under it (about $15/quart). 2 qts of primer, 3-4 qts of paint & hardener and 2 qts of syn enamel reducer usually comes out to $125-$150. If you're using an HVLP gun with this type of material, 30-40 psi line pressure is a good starting point depending on the tip size in the gun. I have a Sharpe Cobalt with a 1.4mm tip and run it around 35. I had another gun with a 2.2 tip and ran it at 40-45 psi (the 2.2 is about the largest tip you can get in a gun and 1.2 or 1.3 is the smallest).

shaggy12
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted December 12, 2005 08:44 PM  
Steve I'm in Boise..where are you??
Chad

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 388
posted December 13, 2005 03:51 AM  
Hey Shaggy we are in New Mexico but i think if you have verizon we can chat with no extra charge cant we. If not and you have Yahoo messenger drop me a line there under geminikid1

Hey eljojo yes laquer thinner will leave it with less shine because of drying so fast. You can use just unleaded gas if using that cheap enamel and it drys with a pretty good shine. We dont use much of that industrial paint but have used some of it on heavy equiptment motors on tractors and lawn furniture. lol

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 997
posted December 13, 2005 04:23 AM  
LOL!

sideways
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 742
posted December 13, 2005 05:41 AM  
I am starting to feel hate and discontent for my beloved Rustoleom oil base from Lowes.Unleaded gas Steve?Oh well my body man aint crazy about it either.lol
quote:
Originally posted by Steve Dupree:
Hey Shaggy we are in New Mexico but i think if you have verizon we can chat with no extra charge cant we. If not and you have Yahoo messenger drop me a line there under geminikid1

Hey eljojo yes laquer thinner will leave it with less shine because of drying so fast. You can use just unleaded gas if using that cheap enamel and it drys with a pretty good shine. We dont use much of that industrial paint but have used some of it on heavy equiptment motors on tractors and lawn furniture. lol



Normal Sullivan
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 75
posted December 13, 2005 06:22 AM  
So you're planning a "FLAME" job. Heh.

[This message has been edited by Normal Sullivan (edited December 13, 2005).]

mike9
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 82
posted December 13, 2005 07:18 AM  
ACTUALLY UNLEADED GAS ISNT ANY MORE FLAMMABLE THAN LAQUER THINNER THE potential for flame is the same either way and back in the real old days they used gast to thin paint , in fact i remember "gas" sanding a black laquer job we used white gas like the old camp stoves used and 600 grit to sand laquer between coats that was back in the days when guys said they had 20 or so coats of lacquer , now that was a lot of work

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1926
posted December 13, 2005 07:50 AM  
We use HOK stuff on the modified. But have used some nason and spray paint even at times for ceterian colors. The HOK stuff seems to be a little harder to work with as far as shows defects easier, but it is also a very bright color.

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 388
posted December 13, 2005 08:57 AM  
Isnt that the truth Mike9. Mike9 is also a very smart paint guy so any ?s you can ask him too!!!!!!! Happy holidays Mike and see ya the 21 st .

Me a flame job lol well maybe but had that last year think i will just stay black this year. lol

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 434
posted December 13, 2005 10:07 AM  
if you have a oreilys auto parts they have dupont auto paint for 48.00 a gallon, reducer is 5.00, and activator/hardner is 15.00. if you sand it good, it will stick longer than the body will ever last you..lmao

shaggy12
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted December 14, 2005 06:14 PM  
Steve.....call 208-447-9813
Of course I have Verizon

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 388
posted December 15, 2005 03:59 AM  
Sorry Shaggy that i didnt give no. I will try today but if i forget try 505-544-5474. Have a good one. Probally better if you call me that way you can have a pen and paper ready so i can give you the numbers you need. Thanks Steve Dupree

  

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