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Author Topic:   Direct Drive Or Mini Clutch
Caddo 85B
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted December 08, 2005 07:42 AM  
The track I race at are changing the rules we can run direct drive or mini clutch witch one is better? I have a 3 speed saginaw trany, what are ya'lls opinion on this?
thanks for the help.

thebomb
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 159
posted December 08, 2005 08:01 AM  
i personally like having a clutch, i cant see that much of a gain worth going thru all the trouble, however the coupler is alot cheaper

Caddo 85B
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted December 08, 2005 01:06 PM  
Ok thanks how much is a coupler? and what all do I need to go with it?

john56h
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 43
posted December 08, 2005 08:09 PM  
I raced an IMCA Modified with a stock 3 speed Saginaw transmission and a street clutch (10.5" disc & pressure plate on a GM nodular flywheel),then switched to a BERT dirct drive transmission (2 speed with small internal clutch on 1st and reverse only) and I didn't see much of an improvement in performance. I was expecting that the car would rev faster and shut down faster, thus requiring a change in gearing, but I ran the same gears and about the same lap times. I really didn't think it was worth all the work and expense of putting it in the car, especially when you factor in what a pain in the but it is to load the car on the trailer and drive it around the pits without a normal clutch. Plus it's nearly impossible to push start too. I'd stick to a stock clutch until you are sure that the guys winning are doing so because they have lighter clutches.

leftturn29
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 106
posted December 08, 2005 08:43 PM  
Coupler is around $450.00, you will also need an automatic flexplate and a hydraulic throwout bearing. however if your car weighs more than 2600 lbs the coupler will not hold up!

hoosierdaddy48
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted December 09, 2005 10:00 AM  
According to my southwest speed catalog they are around 50 bucks- the ones that totally lock it up, And you can buy the flex plate at your local autozone. left turn your talking about the ram coupler right?

mike9
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 83
posted December 09, 2005 12:39 PM  
i Race a class that allows "spuds" or mini clutches or automatics and a couple years ago almost everyone was running the spud but they have found how big of a pain it is to load and start etc and now 90 percent of us are running either Mini clutches or automatics and everyone that has switched has noticed they actually drive better definately run the clutch

lemunyon
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 3
posted December 10, 2005 10:02 AM  
If you are thinking about the Ram Coupler they are a high maintenance item. The spring inside them don't hold up very well, but i havent used one since the '90s.

Caddo 85B
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted December 12, 2005 09:46 AM  
Thanks for all the help I think I will go the mini clutch.

eborcim
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 319
posted December 12, 2005 12:37 PM  
I've run both, and I recommend the direct drive with a powerglide. No extra pedals, you can push start it with a rear pump setup, and the way ours are set up there is no difference in driveability.

As you already have a saginaw, you'll need a flexplate, triple disc clutch, braided lines, 3/4 master cylinder, and a hydraulic TO bearing. Make sure you get the correct type of TO bearing to go with your clutch.

Caddo 85B
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted December 13, 2005 06:24 AM  
eborcim got a question if I get a hydraulic TO bearing do I need a slave cylinder? or just master cylinder and pedal.

Caddo 85B
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted December 13, 2005 06:26 AM  
john56h did you say stock clutch? instead of mini clutch.

Larry Seals
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 60
posted December 14, 2005 06:05 PM  
POWERGLIDES,ONLY WAY TO GO.

racer10j
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 3
posted December 14, 2005 06:14 PM  
if your running on a dry slick track a powerglide with a torque converter from brad,s transmisions in texas is the way to go.

john56h
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 43
posted December 14, 2005 08:52 PM  
Caddo, Yes I said STOCK clutch and flywheel. Granted it is the lighter version of what's available from GM, but it's not a 10,000 RPM unit. I've run the triple disk in the past too. Also wasn't impressed. The stock clutches hold up great, 3 disk required quite a bit of maintenance and was easy to burn. Bert transmission was a dissappointment too. Maybe I've just been racing too long, but most of the "racing" parts that I've had over the years turned out to be smoke & mirrors. I like the stock stuff better. You just gotta figure out which stock stuff is the best.

eborcim
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 319
posted December 15, 2005 09:06 AM  
You do not need a slave cylinder if you use a hydraulic throw out bearing. Just get it shimmed correctly. I do not remember what the recommended spacing is. The manufacturer can tell you. If it is used, I would put new o-rings in it and make sure you get the shims with it. If your rules allow, cut an access hole in the bottom of your bellhousing to assemble it all.

  

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