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Author Topic:   Street Stock Spring Setup
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted November 03, 2005 09:57 PM  
I am building a S. Stock for our local 1/4 mile track, with mid banking. I actually belive we are the smallest 1/4 in Wisconsin.
Looking for ideas on springs - where to start, and what changes are going to cause what effects. Sway bars??
OK, let me throw a wrench in here, Ive heard everything on metric cars in this forum. I am running a 1990 Caprice with the squad package. I have the engine to go forward, I have the gears to keep the engine alive, now I just need to go left.
I do understand basic chassis geometry, and I know that there's at least a few of you laughing at the full size body concept. There is a full size car dominating, and I would gather info from this source... but there are very personal matters there we wont go into
ANY help would be GREAT!

If its got wheels or tits, it's eventually gonna give you trouble.

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted November 03, 2005 09:59 PM  
Any other chassis info is also GREATLY appreciated! - I liked the Right rear control arm rubber idea, with drilling holes... ! GREAT.

Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 82
posted November 04, 2005 03:18 PM  
I don't think anyone is going to laugh at you running a B-Body - they are stronger then a metric, only 8" longer wheelbase, and when gutted aren't too much heavier. Don't cast out everything you read on the metrics - spring setup is going to be almost the same depending on your weight, percentages, and track roughness. If the track is dry slick a lot or really smooth you may want to run a sway bar to keep both tires getting a bite. If the track is rougher then heck or really tacky then you can dump the sway bar to save weight and allow the car to do it's thing with springs.

I have no idea what you're percentages or any other conditions are at so all I will say is it seems from all my readings that a "baseline" setup for a metric is around 1000/900 rf/lf, and around 200 even or 25lb split across the back. Bottom line is you are going to have to get the car out on the track to fine tune anything. I know I had to take my car a ways from the base setup to get where it looked and felt right cornering.

Their are lots of books out there for around $25 that are a lot cheaper to read for info then $50 each time you buy a different spring - just something to keep in mind.

Good luck with the project!

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted November 04, 2005 03:53 PM  
The longer the wheel base the more forgiving the car will be. I see guys in Camero's that can't handle them because they are real twitchy.

Im still up in the air when it comes to sway bars. You can simulate a front sway bar by running a big heavy 1400# RF spring. I wouldnt run anything under a 200# RR on anything. Just get the rear end sucked down for a proper weight %.

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted November 04, 2005 11:22 PM  
GREAT! Just what I was looking for (well, next to another cold beer). At least I have a ggod starting point.
Yes our track ALWAYS goes dry slick. In the heats it is always mud though (our water truck driver must suffer from obsessive compulsive disorder!) But by the semi's it's like running on tarmack. There's tire squeel in the marbles!
ANYway, THANX for the input!

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted November 12, 2005 01:35 AM  
I read some of the archeives and I took all this info to heart. I found a great place for used springs, they test them and tag them. I got a 1065 for the LF and a 1275 for the right f. I ordered a 975 also, but they sold it b4 i got to it.
Anyones interest in the link here it goes...
I buy alot of stuff from them, just never knew they had used stuff (and just about EVERYTHING!)

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 428
posted November 13, 2005 02:28 PM  
Another great source for parts is I got my front springs and clutch M/C from there real cheap.

Jason Boivin


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