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Author Topic:   HARD brake pedal
racing33A
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 97
posted October 14, 2005 07:09 AM  
I have a question for the forum,
Last year we removed the brake booster and put on a manual master cylinder. Every since then the brake pedal effort has been extreme. The pedal only moves about a quarter of an inch, if that. I have lost the ability to use the brakes easily. I have to really stand on them to make them work, and to tell you the truth it makes me nervous and there for I drive slower than I actually can. If we are coming around to take the green and a guys checks up in front of me I have to get off the gas and stand on the pedal to keep from hitting him. What can I do or try to make brakes work better. All stock brake componets, metric car.
racing33A

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sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted October 14, 2005 08:14 AM  
if you took the booster off everything is normal. thats what the booster does it makes a softer pedal

iowa_dirt_track_girl
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 461
posted October 14, 2005 08:26 AM  
He is right racing33a the pedal will be harder to a point. If you really have to stand on them you might want to check some other areas hence your pads may be glazed and not stopping you or you dont have the rears addjusted right (if its a rear drum assembly) I would check your front pads and see if they are glazed or if your rotors are glazed try scuffing them up with some scoth bright pads or have them turned and use a softer pad.

August

sideways
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 715
posted October 14, 2005 09:07 AM  
I will agree if they are brake checking anyway sometimes ya cant help but drill em'.I like manual brakes.

hotrodenford
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 60
posted October 14, 2005 09:14 AM  
3 questions..

What is the piston diameter of the original master cylinder?

What is the piston diameter of the new master cylinder?

When you hit the brakes as hard as posable in the dirt do any of the wheels lock up?

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If it has wheels or a skirt, you can't afford it! But they shure are fun...

wetwolfone
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted October 14, 2005 10:15 AM  
I had a similar situation, except my booster broke during a heat. Hated driving w/o it. Put power brakes back on it. Everyone told me to get rid of the booster, but I figure if that's what you are comfortable with then stay with them.

WesternAuto17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 569
posted October 14, 2005 10:25 AM  
My first car had stock manual brakes that moved .00001" when I stepped on them and I hated 'em. But I think thats just what they feel like.

Now I have a Wilwood set up and it feels and works a ton better.

racing33A
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 97
posted October 15, 2005 06:27 AM  
Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate that. I have been told that I should also remove the proportioning valve and run the brake lines without it. Is this true? Also if I could just get the brakes to feel a little less firm that would be great. I guess I like my brake pedal a little spongier(sp). Any ideas?
Thanks
racing33A

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racing33A
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 97
posted October 15, 2005 06:30 AM  
Sorry iwoa_dirt_track_girl,
I missed your reply. I will check out all the things you suggested.
racing33A

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nine finger
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 76
posted October 15, 2005 08:24 AM  
buy a smaller piston master cylinder!

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted October 15, 2005 10:24 AM  
how close are you sitting to the brake pedal?if your legs are crunched up it will take more effort to push them. if it is a chevy go to the part store and buy a master for a 74 camaro. just about all chevy masters are the same other than a diff line inlet.

you can also make pedal longer and it will ease it down some. but if you made a rod from pedal to master make sure it isnt hitting anything, and that it is centered in the indention on piston..

Donnie Ross
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted October 16, 2005 06:11 AM  
on most pedal assembly's there are two holes available for hooking the rod to the master cylinder, if you used the same hole as with the booster your problem is likely the pedal ratio there should be another hole drilled in the pedal arm that was used for manual brakes. gives you more leverage,should be higher up on the pedal.

iowa_dirt_track_girl
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 461
posted October 17, 2005 08:48 AM  
Definatly take that stock proportioning vavle out and throw it away and run your lines straight to the brakes.

We use a master cylinder off a 83 regal cause it is aluminum and lighter but what ever your prefrence is make sure you bench bleed it and also make sure that you do your bleeding right start and the farthest brake away from the master cylinder.

August

bobaluuu
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 474
posted October 27, 2005 07:29 PM  
also ck your rod to the m/c sometimes theres a bind that makes the pedal move some and then feel like its as hard as steel but you still have no brakes. what im saying is get under there and watch the rod depress the master cyl(no small feat) to ensure that its getting full range thru the bore of the m/c.

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Light it up, Baby!

racing33A
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 97
posted October 31, 2005 06:09 AM  
Thanks for all the replies. The problem turned out to be 1. the brake rod was way to low on the pedal arm, and 2. the brake rod was also on an angle that put it into a bind as soon as the pedal started to move.
Thanks again. I really like this forum.
racing33A

    

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