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Author Topic:   mounting front shocks on stock car
sjakes
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 254
posted September 30, 2005 01:27 PM  
Guys I am wanting to change my front shock mounts. I want to get rid of mouting from the cage to the lower control arm. I am wanting to mount them so they attach on the upper ball joint, I'll have to make an add on piece up off of the cage to support the upper end of the shock.

My question is does anyone have any photos of how their cars are built this way? I have some ideas, but am looking how some of the cars are built that already are proven. I hate to be breaking stuff early next season.

Thanks in advance
Shawn

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allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted September 30, 2005 02:09 PM  
Shawn...I will try to remember and take pics tonight of my Fetty Chassis setup.

Clyde Torkel
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted September 30, 2005 04:23 PM  
check www.stockcarracing.com. Go to the I Stock construction articles. Sleepy made brackets to do this exact thing. Year 2000 issues if I remember. Also Larson Racing had these brackets for sale a few years ago.

DJR22
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 111
posted September 30, 2005 11:28 PM  
Here's the link, hope it works. http://stockcarracing.com/projectbuild/28698/

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-stand on it-

allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted October 03, 2005 09:25 AM  
Larson does sell those a-frame brackes. I think they were about $50 a piece.

Sorry Shawn I forgot over the weekend.

BTW..the Fetty setup is very much like a Larson car.

[This message has been edited by allzway (edited October 03, 2005).]

sjakes
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 254
posted October 05, 2005 06:05 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by allzway:
Larson does sell those a-frame brackes. I think they were about $50 a piece.


I seen that price... ugh....

Here's what I'm considering doing. I have everything pretty much setup and built for my setup. Instead of mounting the shock to the top of the ball joint, how about getting one of those weld on shock mount and welding it to the face of the upper control arm just inside and above the ball joint.

I mean if your standing outside the front tire looking across the motor at the opposite front tire. Now from the upper ball joint, go towards the motor on the angled face of the upper control arm and weld the shock mount on there?

It ends up being about .5 to an inch to the inside of the ball joint, and almost exactly the same height of the balljoint mount?

I know its just a bit to the inside of the acctual pivot point of the ball joint, but you can buy those mounts for 4.99 if you shop around. A person can buy a buch of them pre weld up a bunch of control arms, then there is no messing around with ball joints etc.

Any thoughts?? My concern is geomotry issues?

Thanks
Shawn


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visit us at www.geocities.com/sjrracing

[This message has been edited by sjakes (edited October 05, 2005).]

allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted October 05, 2005 05:08 PM  



 
Hopefully my ISP will finally allow these through.

Here ya go...
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic1.jpg
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic2.jpg
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic3.jpg
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic4.jpg
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic5.jpg
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic6.jpg
http://www.jpmotorsports.biz/images/pic7.jpg

[This message has been edited by allzway (edited October 05, 2005).]

allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted October 05, 2005 05:10 PM  
I think I am having some ISP problems.

mark akins
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 131
posted October 05, 2005 05:39 PM  
i used 1/2 rod coupling with a small gusset welded on for my mounts . so far they are working well

mark

eborcim
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 303
posted October 06, 2005 07:16 AM  
allzway..how do you grease the upper ball joints?

allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted October 06, 2005 08:01 AM  
You can't tell in the pictures, but you can still have and get to the grease fitting on top of the ball joint.

The shock mount is angled away at the top towards the wheel.

[This message has been edited by allzway (edited October 06, 2005).]

Leaf
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 40
posted October 06, 2005 05:10 PM  
split a old upper ball joint, weld the above mentioned mount on top.

put your ball joint in from the bottom and this mount on top, you now have exactly what larsen tries to sell for 45 bucks each!!!!

you have to remove it to grease your uppers.

Hutch5375
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted October 07, 2005 08:33 AM  
Doesn't mounting your shock like that kill the workable range in the shock? Whats the thought with moving the shokc mount to on top of the upper ball joint?

racin5
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted October 07, 2005 10:54 AM  
The only advantage is taking the shock out of the crash zone.There is no handling advantage.

Malibu Man
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted October 07, 2005 04:32 PM  
if mounted on the upper you get one inch of wheel travel and about 3\4 of a inch of shock travel depending on how far out towards the wheel you mount them.

if mounted on the lower a arm like most are you get 1 inch versus 1\4 - 1\2 inch of shock travel.

the closer you can get the shock travel to the wheel travel the more of the shock range you use and you have BETTER control. that seems like a advantage to me!!

allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted October 08, 2005 08:26 AM  
All of the pictures are working now.


sjakes
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 254
posted October 12, 2005 11:12 AM  



 
Thanks all that had input, I got the mounts built and hopefully everything works out come spring.

Thanks again!!

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visit us at www.geocities.com/sjrracing

[This message has been edited by sjakes (edited October 12, 2005).]

DJR22
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 111
posted October 12, 2005 02:40 PM  
Goin orange next year? Looks great, but wouldn't you want the shocks upside down?

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-stand on it-

sjakes
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 254
posted October 12, 2005 07:21 PM  
ha ha, good point, I had a kid that was helping me in the shop throw the shock on while I ran in the house to get the camera. Didn't even realize it until you mentioned it. I even had to relook at the photo to see what you were talking about.

Too funny!!


As far as the orange, yeah its pretty darn bright. Kind of threw my initial paint scheme plans all outta wack, but I'm heading down a different path in exterior colors that I thought I would never run.

Just goes to show, a person can always stray from what they thought they once didn't like and now may like....

[This message has been edited by sjakes (edited October 12, 2005).]

leftturn29
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 95
posted October 12, 2005 07:35 PM  
can someone please explain the need for the bar going across the engine compartment. does this bar move when the weight transfers during corning or is it stationary

thanks

allzway
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 136
posted October 13, 2005 07:05 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by leftturn29:
can someone please explain the need for the bar going across the engine compartment. does this bar move when the weight transfers during corning or is it stationary

thanks


It is mostly support for the shock mounts.

I broke both sides on my car before I added the bar.


leftturn29
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 95
posted October 13, 2005 10:38 AM  
that makes sense, thanks for the info

DJR22
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 111
posted October 13, 2005 10:39 AM  
Actually its just to look cool. lol

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-stand on it-

Eagle71
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 39
posted October 13, 2005 01:30 PM  
With the Shock mounted like that, does it change the rate of shock u have to run?? Vs. mounting to the lower a-frame.

Is the thinking to get the shock straight up and down? If thats the case why doesn't anyone run a 9 1/2" spring with an a adjuster in the spring pocket and run the shock on the stock location. Once you set the front you don't ever move it, just baffling to me why, I have never seen this tried, would keep it way put of danger, shock would be straight up and down.

enduro80
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 12
posted October 13, 2005 02:05 PM  
The problem with doing it that way is in order to get the proper ride height the lower mount of the shock has to extend through the bottom of the A-Arm.In our class we have to run stock suspension parts but they are very lenient(sp?)with the rules.My front ride heights are at 6"but the lower mount sticks through the control arm.If we get a flat it rips the bottom of the shock off.Guess thats the price to pay for handling good.Enduro 80

[This message has been edited by enduro80 (edited October 13, 2005).]

CLBaker25
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 193
posted October 13, 2005 02:09 PM  
Just buy a Larson car. They come with the shocks mounted that way.

    

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