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Author Topic:   tacky trk gone/dry slick now/need some help
bobaluuu
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 474
posted September 18, 2005 04:28 PM  
my car is a metric with 52.%rear/51.2%cross/53.5 left 150 lbs bite/1000lf-1200rf-250lr-225rr springs/afco street stock shocks on front with an ease up on rf/afco #5 on rr and 3/5 on lr--3350lb car-low to mod banking/lower arm angles changed/ trk is staying barely moist and blacking over. this trk used to stay tacky and allowed soft tires. new owners have changed it and d55 are required. I set fast qual time(got inverted 6 cars) and then couldnt keep up during the main. was being pressured hi and low by cars I normally out run easily. was not really loose in but was from the center out. could not get under cars in front because of lack of forward bite/2in stagger./car lacked that squat and bite I'm used to on soft tires/ had lr spacer and rf spacer on to try and tighten car up Any Ideas thanks BOB

[This message has been edited by bobaluuu (edited September 18, 2005).]

cd2
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 161
posted September 19, 2005 04:21 PM  
bobaluuu
Sounds like you need to bring the C.W. up when the track changes so the car will drive off the left rear more on exit.
Try 50-60# more & see how it gets off the corner.Remember as you tighten on exit you loosen on entry.If it does loosen on entry bring the R.R.in like an inch or move the R.F. out 1" & it will tighten back up on entry.
cd2

bobaluuu
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 474
posted September 19, 2005 08:11 PM  
Thanks, I had the rr in and rf out and lr out which took away cross. Im thinking stagger was too much and the tires were take off LM's that never got past warm. maybe more rear weight and cross and softening up the tires would be the answer. I had put taller tires on the front and that changed the ride height almost 3/4 inch. come on guys some of you have had this problem too, I hope>

cd2
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 161
posted September 19, 2005 09:11 PM  
bobaluuu
The car was spinning the tires up off the corner because it did not have enough left rear drive.If you think the stagger is right for the center of the turn then add crossweight,wedge or bite until the car gets tight enough on exit.If you think the stagger is to much then take some out.Which
ever you do you still need to adjust the C.W.To match the amount of stagger you choose to run.I would keep enough stagger on the car so on exit if i needed to turn down under a car to pass the car would turn
but have enough bite to go forward.If it were me i would bring the C.W. up to match the left weight on the dry & if the car was to tight on exit take some out.If the car worked on the tacky it just needs more bite to work on the dry.On the tires do not use softener just take a good belt sander with rough paper & buff over the treads to knock off the shiney or glaze.Make sure they are clean before you buff then. Also check the right rear tire & tell me if it is a ribbed tire.Just in case you do not know a ribbed tire will have a wedge type rib in the sidewall.Look good & or feel you can tell where it thickens up.
cd2

bobaluuu
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 474
posted September 20, 2005 07:27 PM  
cd2 thanks for the info. heck fire I;m a hoozier dealer and don't know what a rib tire is. Its a spec econo hoozier d55, I'll ck tomorrow for the sidewall. I appreciate the straight talk and will be recking my numbers all over asap. I have found out we can now run a factory panard(no heims or jbars) and tubular uppers. Ive read some post about raising the rear ride height 1/2 inch(essentially adding cross and roll?). Give me some info on the panard placement. The tubular uppers will help with ball joint angle and what else______?(camber change?)

    

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