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Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted June 28, 2005 01:17 AM  
I know this gets ask alot on here but I can't seem to point out my problem. The car is an 85 cutlass with a old style monte nose with 12 1 1/2 hles in the grille. To start out first night out new motor have trouble keeping belts on. Same stock pulleys I had on old motor but this one is built a bit bigger and a stock hi pitch gm fan with a 3" spacer about four inches from radiator. The radiator is the same one as the year before a double bypass one. Next week realize the radiator had sucked the fins shut so you couldn't see thru it so, go get another used double bypass from a friend and go out and borrow some 25 or 30% reduction pulleys from a friend but find out I have to run a short water pump. So I find another guy who has a used stewart aluminum pump for 25 bucks so I get it. Go out and it runs 230 after 8 laps but the belt stayed on. I have a good shroud and now have a nylon 6 blade fan the engine builder said is better. In feature it gets hot again so I pull off. Next week get a new howe double row standard gm radiator , duct the nose between the front bumper and the radiator. Go to the track on and it still runs hot. Come home run compression check all are 160, no oil in the water. This is a 383 all machine work is fresh magnafluxed, new dart iron eagle heads, stock gm cast intake per are rules, qaudrajet 4 barrel thats been worked over. Plugs look good, timing 36 deg., thermostat without the center. I'm lost. But it gets better yet. So I decide to put the old motor back in that ran fine before but, with the used water pump and borrowed pulleys and back to my old four blade fan. Shroud half and half. Ran practice at 200. In heat eight laps ran 220. Well though it would get hot in the feature so changed back to my stock pulleys but I used to run a long water pump and I tryed to get away using the short one. Well I threw a belt after the first lap. Please help I'm sure I left out a million thing after writing this book. I hope you have beared with me this long. Thanks Shawn

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 316
posted June 28, 2005 04:41 AM  
Well you could go down on timing to 34 that will help a little and still run ok and up the jets one step at a time and then drain your radiator and run water wetter with distilled water. With these three things you should be able to fix your problem and still run great.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 130
posted June 28, 2005 07:52 AM  
Are you using the same fuel? Different brands have different properties. Also a higher octane should help cool things down a little.

Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 94
posted June 28, 2005 10:22 AM  
Get a good 2 row alm rad, I think a 19x31 should fit, get a high flow waterpump, use your nylon fan with a good shroud, the fan needs to be about halfway in the shroud and no more than 1/4 in. distance between blades and shroud, take your time and get or build a good shroud this should fix your problem

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted June 28, 2005 01:58 PM  
Yeah, I have the same fuel as before. It's 110 I believe. Thanks for the replies and keep them coming.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 30
posted June 28, 2005 03:39 PM  
Boy, if I didn't know better this is my story exactly!! Had the same problems all last year, except the last 2 or 3 laps were done at 250 degrees. After changing out many different sizes of GM three and four core rads, and fan shrouds, I finally got mad enough to spend the extra on an aluminum wide two core racing rad. This instantly fixed my overheating problem, actually running a bit too cool now (180). I'm using an afco rad, 6 blade flex fan, 50% reduction pulleys, and a good fan shroud.

Good luck!

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted June 28, 2005 05:06 PM  
Forgot to add something. When I changed the motor last week I noticed that the water pump didn't have the third hole for the coolant from the block to flow thru. I asked around and called all over and I was told I didn't need it. So why does the block have the hole if I don't need it? Thanks to all, Shawn

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted June 28, 2005 05:22 PM  
I've definately been here. What my problem ended up being was the HEI distributor I was using did not have the weights locked. Therefore, the timing would change at lower RPM and create heat. As soon as I welded my advance, the problem was fixed. Although it took quite a few weeks to figure it out.

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted June 28, 2005 10:41 PM  
The radiator is a double row howe aluminum one. It is 19x26. As for the distributor, now you've got me thinking! It's not the same one I've always used. Do you guys recommend locking it out? I really appreciate all the input that has been given here so far. Thanks a million! I will be sure to let you know what was the exact problem when we pin point it. It's just getting frustrating to have a top 5 car each week and have to pull off.


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