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Author Topic:   camaro right rear floater
oba51
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 41
posted April 07, 2005 02:56 AM  
i keep reading stuff about floating right rear of camaro. some one please explain to me what they r talking about. and a picture or two would be nice thanks

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted April 07, 2005 06:17 AM  
One of the beneficial properties of the Camaro rear suspension is the "wrap-up" of the springs. Under acceleration the leafs distort andthe pinion raises and therefore the "shock" under load is lessened. Instead of welding the leaf spring perch to the right side of the rear end housing, it is welded to a slip collar that allows the housing to twist without distorting the spring. This means tha the "wrap -up" resistance is cut in half, making the on-the-gas shock 50% less. IT also allows the left side to travel slightly forward, due to that side wrapping, creating some rear steer. It's a great set up for a very dry track.
I have always wanted to try a set up that used only the front half of a mono leaf with the LR floated. The car would actually be suspended by coils (or coil-overs) and the rear would be held latterally by a panhard bar. It would take some patience to get that dialed in....but I honestly think it would be the ticket on those black slick tracks!

tilley88
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 879
posted April 07, 2005 10:09 PM  
Using just the front half of a leaf would be just like using a typical trailing arm. The benefit of a leaf is the rear of the leaf unwrapping, giving incredible forward bite if the RR is floated. Check out the mod tech on www.4m.net for more info on the "fastboys" set-up.

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted April 08, 2005 05:35 AM  
.......it would be like a typical trailingarm, except that it would wrap up! You would definatly have to use a 90/10 shock on top.

tilley88
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 879
posted April 08, 2005 07:32 AM  
You could use that half-leaf floated on the right side, but still keep the stack leaf on the left. With this set-up you don't need a pullbar, panhard bar, or alot of horsepower. But lock it down on tacky tracks.

oba51
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 41
posted April 11, 2005 08:05 PM  
some one please post a pic of this if you can .

tilley88
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 879
posted April 12, 2005 02:49 AM  
Be patient oba51, I'll have pics soon....

oba51
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 41
posted April 12, 2005 05:55 PM  
iwanna be able to get alot of bite off but what would you do for a wet track if it was floated . it would have to be bad loose when wet . iwanna pull the $$$$ front tire off the ground i got the power just need trhe hook.

Istock66
unregistered Total posts: 41
posted April 12, 2005 09:17 PM           send a private message to oba51   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/QuoteBBBBBB
I am not floated and have been working on my set up to get my lf on the ground.

put some lead on the rr if you want to lift it or raise all your lead in the back up as high as possible.

I lowered 200#14 inches and was still pulling the lf on a tacky track on the bottom, even with stiff rr shocks to slow the transfer.

oba51
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 41
posted April 13, 2005 04:03 PM  
man let me yell ta . i just built this car this year.been running a monte and done well with it but some of those camaros were hard to beat. so i got it set up like this 52 left 50 rear 49 cross car 3200 lbs first race was wet track due to all the rain weve got in ga lately. car was good going in but right time u touch the gas it was bad bad loose imean real bad . even on the straight when i would hit the gas i could feel the car trying to turn around .tryed 2inch stagger all the way down to no stagger and was no good. racing on hoosier rc3 so tire should not be the problem. any body no a easy way to get mucho traction out of this thing bout ready to burn it. lets see afco 1295 shocks landrum multi leafs lr200rr175lf900rf1000 . 1 thing i did notice was the shackle was letting the end of the spring touch the frame where the bushings are bot idont know if that would make it that loose help

Istock66
unregistered Total posts: 41
posted April 13, 2005 07:43 PM           send a private message to oba51   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/QuoteBBBBBB
50 rear wont ever work. my car wouldnt get out of its own way until 54 rear, I started with 51 and went up 1 percent a race last year when it was new.

I run 3 shocks on the back for my neutral set up, and put a 4 or 5 on the rr to loosen.

I start with 56.5 rear wt on tacky and loosen with the rr shock and rr tire spaced out.

I move the rr in and add lead to 59 rear and put softer shocks on both rears for dry.

I also ran 266 of lr bite last week but didnt work the rr enough so going down to 200 lr bite and try that.

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted April 13, 2005 07:50 PM  
Oba, If the shackle was touching the frame, then your suspension was binding! Don't give up my friend...just realize there is a problem and fix it!
If you installed the springs in the cups at the front, check to see if there's been some sort of altreration there, It sounds like the front of the spring isn't in the right location, therefore the rear end isn't square with the car(loose on straights) and the shackle is bottomed out(rediculous in corner).
Pull some strings parallel with the chassis. I put one on each side, measuring the same distance from the sub-frames until both back measurements are the same and both front measurements are the same and the two strings are parallel. (I wrap mine around four jackstands) then use a framing square and a felt tip pen and make a mark on the shop floor that is directly under the strings front and rear. Using a chalk line, snap a line on the floor running from the about center of the rear wheel up towards the front about 6 feet, thru those marks.
Using the framing square, set it on the shop floor and touch the front outer edge of both rear brake drums (or rotors) with the short leg of the square and mark the floor. That will give you a plumb mark on the floor that corresponds to the rear on both sides. Chalk a line thru these two marks and continue it on out past where it intersects the first line about four feet.
Take a measurement up the chassis line from that intersecting point ecactly four feet. Mark another measurement from the intersection out the rear end line out 3 feet. On a diagonal meaurement between these two marks you will read 5 feet. If you read less or more then your rear is out of square and you need to fix it. If you read 5 feet then you know that the front of the springs is ok and that the rear of the springs need to be adjusted so that the shackles can move. The shackles should be a short as possible and will move forward as much as they move back (spring wrap)
Hope this helps!

oba51
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 41
posted April 14, 2005 02:33 PM  
dang son 59 rear weight how much u have to add to get thati got 100lbs just to get to 50

    

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