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Author Topic:   Roll Cage Components LLC
blanep
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 105
posted October 12, 2004 08:27 PM  
Ok, been trying to decide who to get a roll cage kit for an '84 Monte from (Day, CSC, JR, etc..) and had finally decided to go with JR Motorsports. Well, now I find this company called Roll Cage Components and am looking fairly hard at their late model cage(http://www.rollcagecomponents.com/kits/latemodel.htm). Their price seems really good and I'm curious if any of you had tried one of their kits and what you felt the quality of it was in terms of fit, etc.

Thanks in advance to any who know something about them.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted October 12, 2004 08:50 PM  
I agree 17j, its not necessary to have 1 3/4" tubing throughout the whole car. The main cage yes, the rest 1 1/4" or 1 1/2 will be just fine.

hobby10k
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 226
posted October 13, 2004 05:55 AM  
what com. would you reccoment getting a cage kit from??

MiPinto6
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted October 13, 2004 05:58 PM  
I would discourage purchasing a cage from CSC. I bought one for a ministock last year and was not impressed at all. I have done a much better job myself using very cheap benders and notchers. Nearly a $400.00 lesson learned here. Let me know how your kit turns out when you buy it.

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Thanks, Rob
(Cold Blooded Racing)

flyin747
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted October 13, 2004 07:06 PM  
My brother and I got both our kits from redline and are happy with what we got.
We got the four bars on driver's side, Z on pass. side. http://www.rlms.com/

ssaamm
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 31
posted October 13, 2004 07:11 PM  
I got a 4 point with 3 door bars per side from redline last year and I was happy with it as well...

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blanep
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 105
posted October 13, 2004 07:37 PM  
I don't mind the 1 3/4" all the way, actually I'd rather it be that way for my own personal tastes. On the gusset issue, I guess I'm not fully understanding. Can't you just notch the rears of the halo and attach them to the main hoop rather than having them extend to the back of the hoop where they would normally attach to the gussets? I mean you'd likely have to either raise the hoop 1 3/4" higher than their plan shows or else lower the front uprights by the same amount in order to keep the halo level, depending on how the kit is designed, but that's about the only change I can see it making. You'll have to forgive my ignorance on this one as I've never used a kit and haven't closely examined too many of them.

Most of my knowledge of cage kits comes from you guys in here and it seems that 95% of you are happy with what you received, whether it be from CSC, JRM, Redline, Day and others.

Anyhow, since no one here has apparently tried this companies' product yet then I think I'll try them (assuming I don't get a boat-load of bad info on them soon) just so we all know for future reference whether or not we can use them.

redneck racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 860
posted October 13, 2004 07:53 PM  
I went with a Speedway Motors kit and have been pretty happy with it, I also bought extra bar and modified the cage to my liking. Eddie

redneck racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 860
posted October 13, 2004 08:09 PM  
17J not to stir anything up with you, I know you know your poison here but to me that is a pretty good looking kit, the halo gussets are probably doubled with a hole in the center that you weld together I see no problems with that, also some rules dictate using 4 door bars on each side, but why anyone would want to use smaller tubing outside the main cage is beyond me I prefer the whole car to be 1 3/4 tubing makes me feel alittle better if I get it on its top plus I feel the support is better. The price is $299.00 or something mine was $369.95 and it shipped freight free as long as it went to a company so the shop it was, all in all I think its a pretty good deal. Eddie

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted October 13, 2004 08:33 PM  
After you talk with these folks, please post what you find out. Shipping, availability, ease to work with, etc. I just bought a four point and some tubing...This looks to be a much better deal!

BIGDADDYBOZ
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 466
posted October 13, 2004 09:00 PM  
My first car I built was with a kit from Day Motorsports. I was very happy with it. My car I have now is a Thunder Chassis. It was much easier cuz they did all the work for me LOL.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted October 13, 2004 10:44 PM  
Well stated 17j. That is exactly why you don't want 1 3/4" tubing throughout the whole car. Mainly the crush zones. You want the car to be destroyed instead of you right???? You can always build another car, but you yourself never get another shot at life. NEVER skimp on safety. Let the roll cage do what its designed to do....... protect the driver. Therefore it needs to be strong around the driver and everywhere else should absorb the crash impact as much as possible.

Speedway65
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 344
posted October 14, 2004 07:15 AM  
All of our cars have been CSC kits and we have never had a problem with them.Most every car within a 200 mile radius uses their stuff.I can't speak for their ministock stuff.I guess the fact that the are only an hour drive from me helps!

iowatoolman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 369
posted October 14, 2004 03:44 PM  
i have a cage from jr motorsports and am very happy with it yes i did add a couple of bars but other than that it was very easy to put in the car and has held up to the abuse (1 roll over )
yea i run figure 8's the only problem i noticed with the jr cage is the door has no bar down low to keep from getting caved in but that is the door skin not the cage
so everything else has been great

drive hard or drive home

redneck racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 860
posted October 15, 2004 04:51 PM  
point made 17j I do agree with you, you need to have crush zone in a car although all the cars ive built have all been 1 3/4 tubing and have held uo pretty good with the wall and other cars granted the car wasnt a total loss and theres a pretty good jolt cause I seperated my sternum in 96 with heavy contact with the wall, I now use a sternum strap(as of the next week) to keep that from happening and a head restraint the worst lately was having the wind knocked out of me in a crash, you cant be stupid on safety, I guess im a little old fashioned in my building I like em rigid. Eddie

PEDDLER
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 446
posted October 15, 2004 05:39 PM  
blanep;
If your in OK then I'd try this in the DFW area. http://www.destroyerf1chassis.com/

Flo Bee
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted October 16, 2004 01:12 AM  
Something else to think about in this rigid vs. flex debate... Having a little flex will get you some added traction and help keep all four corners planted.

DEEDDUDE
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 157
posted October 16, 2004 10:34 AM  
I've used csc cage kits with a lot of success. Easy to assemble. All my cages are 1 ¾” on all bars. I’ve used .083 and .065 bars for the down bars, x-braces, etc... In the crush zones.
1 ½” vs. 1 ¾” you only save 27 lbs. per 100 feet of tubing. How much tubing is in your car minus the main cage?

I would rather have a rigid car over a car that flexes any day. This lets the springs and shocks do their job. If you’ve got a car that flexes the metal can be work hardened and become brittle, once it has fatigued enough it will crack or break.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted October 16, 2004 02:27 PM  
Flex?? I was wondering about that. I have always thought that you want a rigid chassis so that your handling will be consistent and so that any changes that you make on the car will effect you’re handling directly. That way you can fine tune your car as so you are not confiscate for the chassis flex?

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GO FAST, EAT DIRT, LIVE RACING

hobby10k
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 226
posted October 16, 2004 03:10 PM  
what about the Howe cages?? anyone ever use them? they look pretty nice.

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GO FAST, EAT DIRT, LIVE RACING

redneck racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 860
posted October 16, 2004 03:35 PM  
Thats the word I was looking for with the 1 3/4 tubing RIGIDITY no flexing thanks dude. Eddie

Flo Bee
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted October 16, 2004 05:15 PM  

I knew I'd get you guys fired up with the flex comment, but that's because I come from a drag racing background. Certain chassis are designed to flex at a controlled amount in the right spots. You want the chassis rigid enough to keep itself straight, but flexible enough to endure the stress of the traction and loads.

Actually, a completely rigid chassis will fail before one with flex. That's simple engineering.

Currently, there are about five (5) modified cars using similar technology. Guess what? They're winning.

Something to think about.

Additionally, my track has rules about the size of the tubing used outside the main cage. They require the smaller tubing. You guys don't have this rule in effect, I take it?

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Matt Hill

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted October 16, 2004 06:17 PM  
Are any of you guys using chromoly for anything?

Are you guys using unibody cars or framed cars?

What are your supension rules? What suspension type are you all using? I've seen where some people seem to be able to get away with a more race-oriented suspension.

Wall thickness and material type have a lot to do with this stuff, as far as I'm concerned. I don't want to see a car that's so flexible that it's able to twist itself up or make suspension hard to dial in or unpredictable. I want to see a chassis rigid, but with the ability to give in the right areas to keep it from snapping under force.

Also, I'd much rather be able to repair a bent piece of tubing that absorbed impact than have damaged pushed further down the line and damage my unibody chassis.

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Matt Hill

redneck racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 860
posted October 17, 2004 10:28 AM  
The new ride is a 77 Nova that has the front and rear section tied together with 2x2x3 running on the inside of the rocker panel, as for the suspension it will have the wt jacks in the front and i havent decided on if im going to run the longer shackles or sliders in the rear yet. Eddie

19J
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 370
posted October 18, 2004 04:09 PM  
A friend welded his whole suspension stiff. He went out there and he said he never hooked up. All the car did was bounce all around spin tires. So being solid isnt always good.

hobby10k
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 226
posted October 18, 2004 04:55 PM  
Yea I didn't mean building a tank, I was just referring to placing the right bracing on the chassis to eliminate as much flex as possisble(between the susp) see when building our old chassis we bult them rigid from the LF-RR and so the chassis flexed from RF-LF. then we learned that you want the chassis completely rigid, then get more consistant ajustments and can pinpoint the ajustments that you need rather then trying to work around the chassis flex

kmongo
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 21
posted October 28, 2004 10:20 PM  
I tried ordering a csc cage about 3 weeks ago. I got a catalog in the mail made my list and called. The prices in the catalog where wrong and they no longer do the free frieght to a business address on cage kits. It was going to cost me an extra $185 dollars to have it shipped to a buddies auto shop. I ordered mine from speedway motors and got free frieght and a real nice cage with 4 door bars on each side, front loop and back. I was real dissipointed because I always thought the csc stuff looked good but Im big on customer satisfaction and they didn't seem to care about the mixups.Kevin

redneck racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 860
posted October 30, 2004 04:18 AM  
I noticed that also when I ordered my kit. I also bought mine from Speedway because of the free shipping to a business address I had mine sent to my parts store, they have also got great customer service and there techs are awsome. Eddie

MiPinto6
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted October 30, 2004 01:23 PM  
As I stated earlier, I will never but another kit from them. When I placed the order I told them I had taken measurements of the chassis (77 Mustang II). They said they already knew what size the cage needed to be. NOT! The kit had to be modified so much it would have been faster to build it ourselves. Next time I'll put that money towards a new tubing bender and do it myself!

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Thanks, Rob
(Cold Blooded Racing)

Rookieracer76
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 289
posted October 30, 2004 06:57 PM  
I also had a problem with CSC. bought a cage for my 77 monte and alot of the bars were cut wrong! im building a 88 monte now and am thinking of going with rollcagecomponents.com

blanep
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 105
posted May 03, 2005 07:03 PM  
Just wanted to post an update regarding Roll Cage Components. Finally decided to go with their late model cage with the sportsman front, windshield protection bar, foot protection bar, etc... and everything went well. And I did notch and lower the halo to do away with the main hoop gussets although I personally see no safety issue with going the gusset route... I just like modifying stuff ;-). As with any cage kit I did have to do some grinding and notching for the final fit, but it sure beats making EVERY notch and bend yourself. Overall I'll give 'em an A with an A+ on price. I also have a feeling that they're going to keep tweaking and working to make their cages better over time rather than just mass produce the same old design year after year. They just come across as that type of shop. Definately the folks I'll look to again in the future.

    

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