posted August 30, 2004 07:06 PM
I've never had the rear bind up but i think the bend is the cause of your trouble. I assume you mean the springs are hitting the frame. Do you have plenty of shock travel ? I made some custom shackles for the rear of my springs, I put 1 hole above the stock position and 3 holes below it. These holes are only spaced 3/4" or so, but i have found that it is impossible to use the hole that would lower the car beyond the stock position.The spring eye fouls with the frame very quickly with a minimum of movement. A quick fix for your car would be a set of longer shackles. Make sure that the shackles can rotate aft around the upper mount bolt and you should be able to eliminate your bind.
Dstructo4x Dirt Roller
Total posts: 13
posted September 01, 2004 06:54 PM
Go over to landrum's website and you will find that the "monkey see-monkey do" way we've all been hanging springs just ain't it! Weld some extensions to the front spring cups and drp the front of the spring down. Then run as short of a rear shackle as possible. You'll be hoping fot the track to go dryslick! I could not believe the difference in forward bite I got by following their advice.
marshalr Dirt Maniac
Total posts: 148
posted September 02, 2004 07:37 AM
- When i think of of using a lowering block it is for roll center placement or to soften that spring a little. - Bigger block softens the spring more. - I use the shackles in the rear of the spring to adjust crossweight. remember that you are deforming the spring when you move it down on the shackle. - A big change in spring placement results in a smaller change in ride height because the deformation of the spring eats most of it up. - Moving the front of the spring up or down will change ride height, also changes a couple of other very important things. Learn what will change before you attempt that. - Make room for those shackles to move aft freely, if it hits anything, the rear end is binding, car gets screwy.