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Author Topic:   DRY SLICK ADJUSTMENTS
RACEINMUD
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 323
posted August 24, 2004 01:27 PM  
Hi, This is my first yr in street stocks and have been having a terrible time getting my car to handle during the feature race. Track always goes dry slick. I run a 3400lb metric with weight jacks on imca tires. I know this is a wide open question, but what are some things I can do to tighten the car up as I go in the corner. The back end always comes on around. Any Ideas? Thanks, Race.

turnleft43
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 38
posted August 24, 2004 04:43 PM  
Race, let us know what wheel offsets your using and where. what springs your using and air pressure. I run a metric and one thing for sure that helped is adding some cross weight. Turn the right front and left rear weight jacks down a couple of turns for example.

RACEINMUD
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 323
posted August 24, 2004 05:12 PM  
Thanks Turn for the reply. My springs are 900 lf 14psi 3in os , 1050 rf 20 psi 2 in os, rr 225 18psi 4in os, lr 275 16 psi 2 in os. I run 95 afcos on the the front and stock mount Pro's on the rear. I don't have access to scales so I know it is a **** shoot. Thanks Race

Tach Full
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted August 24, 2004 07:02 PM  
Hey racinmud, I am a first year racer also and have had the exact same problem. I finally figured it out, and it was the rear end was not square to the chassis. Check this first and foremost. If this is ok. Then add more cross to the car. By cranking on the weight jacks as suggested earlier. Or also try moving the right rear wheel offset in, and the left rear out. Hope this helps. Good luck

marshalr
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 148
posted August 25, 2004 09:58 AM  
Add crossweight for dryslick.
I gotta disagree with the previous post by Tach Full. You want to move the left rear under the car more for more crossweight.
I hook up my sway bar and tighten the end link bolt more or less depending on how dry it is. When i can't turn the urethane bushings by fingers thats "zero", add up to 6 turns for shiny dry slick. I know everybody takes their front sway bars off nowadays. If the dirt is hard and slick you are working up on top of it like asphalt.
I also think you gotta have planned adjustments for cranking on the jackbolts. With the car on scales get your crossweights, but also crank the LF and RR in the opposite direction to get your ride height back. By splitting your adjustments you can get lots of crossweight and keep your correct ride height.
Lower air pressures to start, especially the RR, it gets hot, balloons up with 7 extra PSI
A softer application with your starboard throttle manipulator is also helpful when it's slick.
It's all one big combination.

turnleft43
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 38
posted August 25, 2004 05:43 PM  
Race, Your rf spring may be a little too light for that heavy of a car. If you can bump it up to a 1200 lb. spring and your lf to the 1050. If your motor is in stock position you have alot of weight on the nose is why im saying this. If the motor is set back some it may be ok. Your rear springs seem to be in the ball park. The offsets on the wheels are right and the air pressure is pretty close. The afcos on the front, the only thing i would of done was put a 96 on the rf. Again putting two rounds in the rf and lr weights jacks are something that will help put more weight on those two corners too help it stick to the track better. Remember trying to do one thing at a time so you know what worked better for your car.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted August 25, 2004 07:00 PM  
I run same car only we call it a pro stock. I run more split in front. 975 lf and 1175 rf and 195 rr 215 lr. Take some stagger out or increase air pressure in lr tire. Move rear tires to left. Increase cross weight. Increase rear weight or %( loose weight in front). All of these thing is what I did in the past 18 months and now I can go in hard and deep. In fact I got it really tight and had to reverse some of my ajustments. I run hoosier dirt boss and run the lf 10psi rf 16 psi rr 15 psi and lr 9psi. Run tubes and havent lost a tire this year. About a 85 to 87 roll on the tire depending on the night. I did mess with shortening the left lower rear trailing arm and that helped to.

RACEINMUD
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 323
posted August 26, 2004 08:44 AM  
Thanks everyone for the help, should have asked two months ago. I went with those springs per suggestion but their car does have the motor set back. I'll find a 1200 and swap springs. Do I still go the the 96 one the rf? 17j, No the front is due for a alignment at the shop. I have three weeks off so it is going in soon. Once again, thanks everyone! Race

turnleft43
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 38
posted August 27, 2004 06:09 AM  
race you dont "have" to go with the 96 on the rf but its something u may want to look at in the future.

racin78p
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 333
posted August 27, 2004 11:57 AM  
For what it's worth, I have a 3300# Factory Stock 4 link metric that had the same problem. I run on a 4/10th mile, high banked oval and needed to adjust SOMETHING fast to make the A feature,... I put 2 25lb lead bars on the LEFT rear (between rear axle and rear bumper) roll bars and WHAT A DIFFERENCE it made! I made my first "A" main that night (got a 3rd in the B). It was the simplest change we could make in a 15 minute turn around time frame. Once again, it's just "for what's it's worth". Worked for this guy,...

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DPITMON

CLBaker25
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 193
posted August 28, 2004 01:38 PM  
I believe that more cross makes your car loose going in. If your car is not coming off as well then you need more cross but if it is loose in I would try moving the right rear in or taking some left side weight out by moving weight.

    

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