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Author Topic:   dirt to pavement
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 429
posted August 23, 2004 07:48 PM  
Been running dirt going to try asphault with my car. Several have told me that my car should work well at this track but I am worried about it. 1200 rf 1022 shock, 1000 lf 1020 shock, 225 lr 1035 shock , 200 rr cant remeber shock i think 1031, no sway bars,is this gonna be a bad situation.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 48
posted August 23, 2004 08:01 PM  
um, all I have to say is GOOD LUCK, and don't tear up your tires

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 111
posted August 24, 2004 10:50 AM  
I used to run asphalt and now have nearly a season on the dirt. I wouldn't run asphalt without a front sway bar, period. I've had the sway bar bolts break and couldn't hold it coming off the turns. Suspect you'll have too much roll without the bar to run smooth laps. My 2 cents.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 73
posted August 24, 2004 03:14 PM  
I switched from 10 seasons on dirt to asphalt this year,due to dirt track closing down.The class I run is a bomber class and we cant do anything to the suspension.First nite I ran without a sway bar,big mistake,car wants to loop around.I started out with 7/8" swaybar and now using a 1 1/8" bar and it has helped out alot.All I can say is when you want to drive in deep and kick the a$$ end around that dont work on asphalt,just be a little more patient and good luck.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 137
posted August 24, 2004 07:07 PM  
assuming you have a metric from the spring rates.

3150 or so car.


max left side allowed, all wt mounted low.

48-50 rear max I like 46-48
49-52 cross I have never made over 49 work, though Ive set up friends late models with the cross even to the left side and they liked it, and it worked.

1 inch bar if you are allowed to add it. solid on rf, with just a bolt on left front start with it just loose with driver in car, double nut the top nut.

same as above to start

depending on what tires most can take

10-25-28 hot.

0 stagger in front

1/2-2 in rear depending on size of tracks corners.

If you have good front end parts set toe to 1/16 in. if older set up to 1/4 in, the goal is for the wheels to be straight down the straights.
very little rear brake.
lots of front brake.
you may want to grind pad surface area of the rear if you have your calipers set up for dirt.
6 6
5 4

if you use offsets tuck the left sides in as much as possible stick the rights out. this adds ls wt.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted August 24, 2004 11:54 PM  
Good list JohnG
You'll for sure need a sway bar, big one.
Ran pavement on Saturday, and locals at that track use from 50-58 cross. We started at 51, and adjusted upwards from there. Start with bar fairly neutral, and have plenty of adjustment for adding preload available. Mind your rear weight percentage as well, and run as much left side percentage as you can, shift ballast etc.
I ran 900 straight across the front and a big bar, turned great, tire wear was surprisingly even. Was neat as it turned with the fast cars, but needed more motor on the straights. Was so smooooth... and the car was clean after! I'm for sure going back, had a blast.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 429
posted August 25, 2004 07:23 PM  
well thanks all. maybe i can find that swaybar I threw in the junk pile

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted August 25, 2004 11:56 PM  
The one I'm using on the Monte came from a Cutlass, as it was the bigger one on the Cutlass, being bigger, less adjustment makes for more preload changes.
Good luck, and have fun.


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