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Author Topic:   Help with Bilstein valving selection
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 229
posted July 17, 2004 05:33 PM  
My friend runs a stock car (pretty much the same as a IMCA I-Stock) he wants to run Bilstein shocks but I have no clue what shocks to tell him to buy, I know the valving is backwards on them. I just want a good starting point using split valve shocks.
Track is 3/8 mile always dry slick
car is a metric and has
LF 1000
RF 1200
LR 225
RR 200
53% rear weight, 120 lbs LR bite
53-54% left side, total car weighs 3250 with driver.
car handles pretty good now just lacking foward bite. He is running pro 75's on all four corners.
Thanks for your help.

[This message has been edited by udecide66 (edited July 17, 2004).]

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 635
posted July 19, 2004 01:38 PM  
My car is very similar to your setup (my RF spring is 1100, the rest are the same) with the only real difference being my rear weight is 'only' 49.7%. I run at a dry slick 1/2 mile on 8" Hoosier RC4s.

I called Bilstein earlier this year and spoke with a tech. He happened to have run a car & track very close to what we run on. He recommended AK3030Rs for the rear, AK4040F on the LF and AK3050F on the right front. THe first 2 numbers are the rebound and the 2nd 2 are compression. So the 3050 is a super heavy compresion and med. rebound. I must say I've been very happy with them so far.

Daymotorsports sells them, or find a part store that orders from Motorstate Distributing. The AK3030R, AK4040F and AK3050F are all in Motorstate's system now. I was the first person to order them since they're a relatively new part number. They have to be drop shipped from Bilstein, so it takes about 10 days for them to arrive. I won't say what I paid for them (cost from Motorstate) but if your parts guy treats you right you can get them for about the same price as the Afco site sells theirs (within a couple $$$ anyway).

The tech at Bilstein said the other shocks they sell work best on Asphalt cars and the numbers above work best on dirt cars. Espeically on slick tracks.

Oh.. and also check your tire temps. If the LF+RR is higher than the RF+LR, add some cross or tighten up the sway bar. The advice I was given was to shoot for the RF+LR to be 20 degrees higher than the LF+RR. At first I was 30 degrees the wrong way and now have them about equal.

[This message has been edited by Raz_900 (edited July 20, 2004).]


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