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Author Topic:   Powerglide Tailshaft bushing
Kevin Schmidt
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 8
posted May 03, 2004 09:04 PM  
I have a metric chassis with a 9" rear and a powerglide tranny that the car had been ran by the previous owner last year along with myself running it 5 nights with no problems last year. Over the winter I changed the rear gear from a 3.89 to 6.83 so I can run drive. The day after the first race this year I noticed that I had lost alot of the tranny fluid due to the tailshaft seal and the bronze bushing had slid out onto the yoke.

I suspect the RPM change from the gear change may have caused this. My question is can I push in a new bushing with out removing the tailshaft housing? Will it stay in place?
I plan on new u-joints and a new seal also in hopes this solves the problem completly.

I am trying to avoid complete removal of the tranny to work on this since I can not remove the tailshaft housing by itself with the driveshaft loop in the way. I am also doing the work by myself and trying to avoid having to wrestle with it if I can.

Any suggestions or hints are well appreciated.

Thanks

Kevin Schmidt

UFnARacing
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 179
posted May 04, 2004 08:28 AM  
I did about the same thing this year and believe it or not, had the same problem. In my case, I had lots of vibration I could feel when I get up to speed. I thought it was the driveline, which I needed to shorten anyway, so new balanced driveline.....and the vibration was still there. Although the bushing and seal stayed in after the driveline change. Well, after some lengthy investigation, it seems as though my RR axle was bent a little. I should have my new axle done this week and won't know until saturday's race.

The moral of the story......have your driveline balanced and see what happens. That has to be your first step, no matter what else is wrong.

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http://webpages.charter.net/ufnaracing/

mansfief
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 128
posted May 04, 2004 08:41 AM  
Kevin, the way you shold do it is: Remove the drive shaft loop. take the tail shaft off (only five bolts) and take it to a transmission shop and have a bushing pressed in. It is not a easy job to remove a transmission if you do not have a transmission jack or some help. Also: when you get the transmission refreshed this fall, make sure all the bushings are replaced, even the tail shaft bushing you have put in now. I have been down that road and It is the the only way to do it. I have been told by some transmission shops that you do not have to replace the bushings. I did not go back to them again. Good Luck, Mansfield


Kevin Schmidt
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 8
posted May 04, 2004 09:25 PM  
Thanks for the response all....


Mansief, The drive shaft loop is fabricated into the crossmember assembly and is welded in so I am unable to remove it unfortunately.

Fortunatly the tranny shop down the road was able to borrow me a sleeve that just fit over the shaft and had a counter bore for the bushing that I was able to tap the bushing into place. In hindsight I should have had the tranny rebuilt this past winter.
I plan to monitor it and if I see any movement I will pull it out and do it right. I am hoping the parts were just worn.

Thanks again for the responses.

Kevin

powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted May 05, 2004 07:55 AM  
Are you still running a stock metric driveshaft? It is now spinning at almost twice the speed and bending in the middle. It balances fine at the shop but the center whips at high rpm's. Get a new thicker driveshaft.This problem is not in the tranny.

Raz_900
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 635
posted May 05, 2004 11:39 AM  
If you're using the factory metric driveshaft with a 'glide and a 9", it's about 1" too short. We broke 2 tailshafts and had at least 5 bushing 'blow out' issues as u describe. Turns out, the yoke was only touching 3/4 of the bushings and thus blowing it apart.

$105 for a new heavy wall shaft 1 1/2" longer and it's been fine for over 20 races now.


Kevin Schmidt
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 8
posted May 05, 2004 08:33 PM  
Powerglide

How can I determine if the driveshaft is "stock"? I suspect it is a stock shaft but to be honest I have no clue. Also do you have a part# or supplier of the "New thicker Driveshaft" you mentioned.

Raz

Currently my yoke is sticking out of the tranny within 1"-1 1/4" are you saying I should be closer then that in this application?

Thanks for the info in advance.

Kevin

powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted May 06, 2004 04:50 AM  
Kevin'
The clearance between the rear tranny seal ans the shoulder on the yoke should be 1-1 1/4 at ride height so yours sounds right. You have to take your shaft to a driveshaft shop and have them make you a new thicker one the same length.

    

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