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Author Topic:   Pictures of Hanging Doors & Fenders on Metric Car?
Koolaid
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 108
posted November 11, 2005 08:46 AM  
Does anyone have any pictures of how they hung the doors and fenders on their metric cars? Looking for ideas for next year. I can't run any braces through the firewalls and must maintain a stock core support so my situation is a little unique, but looking for some ideas.

This last season the doors were gutted, stock hinges left bolted to them, and then welded shut. The insides of the fenders were gutted, two bolts in the rear held it to the firewall, and a bunch of little screws held it to the core support. This way worked, but if their is a better way to do things I'm all ears. Thanks, Jim

avila
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 224
posted November 11, 2005 09:36 AM  
First off, get rid of thoses screws as when they fall off they can make holes in tires.
Get yourself a pop rivit gun that runs off compressed air. speedwaymotors.com sells them for under $40.

So your rules say you must maintain the stcok core support, but do you need to use it?
Gut out the stock core support. I have welded flat stock steel to the role cage and front hoop and extended them to body panels
for bracing.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5487
posted November 11, 2005 10:47 AM  
Thanks guys - Avila - just for clarification the little screws I was referring to were the stock 11mm head ones that hold the fender to the header panel, bumper cover to the fender, and core support to the fender. I'm not using sheet metal screws or anything to fasten parts.

That aside - what do you guys consider gutting the core support? The car literally gets the snot beat out of it and it has to support a 31x19 radiator all day. Are you talking behind the headlight bucket area? Their is a pretty decent hole their already. I'm all for lightening the front end of the car up - just don't want to lose all the structural integrity - can you be more specific on how to lighten them? If it was a factory stock I'd just fab something up. Thanks for your help, Jim

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 385
posted November 11, 2005 04:21 PM  
Well it sounds to me its time to visit a pipe bender and loose some weight. You can loose alot up front where you want too with alot more protection.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5487
posted November 11, 2005 04:35 PM  
how much weight are you going to loose if you have to retain the rad cradle? I can pick and carry and load a complete front clip including the inner fenders, windshield wash bottle, and all the gobbly goop that goes with it. I like the idea about notchin the fender holes.

Flying Jack Ace
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 22
posted November 23, 2005 08:19 PM  
My doors and fenders come off with just a few bolts. You can lay them on the ground and beat em back straight and have em back on in just a few minutes. Not might design but sure a good one. I'll try to post some pic's over the weekend if I can..

Koolaid
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 108
posted November 23, 2005 09:05 PM  
That'd be great if you could post some pics - I was hoping between a bunch of pictures I could come up with a combination that worked best for me. Thanks for the help, Jim

johder
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 164
posted November 26, 2005 09:55 AM  

 
here is car sitting with doors i put back on couple weeks ago.

M1
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 260
posted November 26, 2005 01:03 PM  
I dont have pictures of how I mount mine, but I wish I did. Its easy, and I'll try to explain the BEST i can.

Use your stock support...makes stuff much easier. hang your fenders on that and onto the firewall with stock hardware too.

The doors... I take 8" chunk of angle iron and weld it into the door jam where the door latch used to be. and then on the front of the door opening where the wiring used to come through. (there is a bulge there that will need to bu cut to make the angle iron lay flat)

Then put masking tape from your quarter panel to your front fender to "moch" your door skin. Measure how far it is from the angle iron to the tape, and cut some left over tubing short enough to fit inbetween. Leave some for angle iron on the end of the tubing tho too.

So what you get is one chunk of 8 inch angle iron in the door jam, front and back, a small peice of tubing and then another piece of 6 inch or so angle iron at a door side. Drill holes and hang your door off that. Then you can mount your rub bars, (I use 1x2 tubing) to that. I have my rub bar run from the fron fender to the rear quater.it supports and connects everything together VERY strong.

Hope this makes sence. I can TRY and get some pictures, but all I have is a picture phone and they wont be the best.

Flying Jack Ace
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 22
posted November 26, 2005 04:47 PM  
okay here are the pics...
Basically it's 3/4" square tubing with tab's.
There are 5 bolts holding on the fenders and 5 bolts which hold on the doors. It is designed to breakaway should it be hit hard enough but easy to repair. Hope this gives you some ideas.
http://home.hot.rr.com/importtech/78cutlass/

I just reread your post..don't know if it will work for you on the fenders if you cannot run a front hoop...

[This message has been edited by Flying Jack Ace (edited November 26, 2005).]

Flying Jack Ace
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 22
posted December 13, 2005 08:07 PM  
Here's a better picture of the door tab's.
The stubs are where the nerf bar's bolt on.
http://home.hot.rr.com/importtech/78cutlass/passdoor.jpg

[This message has been edited by Flying Jack Ace (edited December 13, 2005).]

sjakes
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted December 14, 2005 06:16 AM  

 
Ok here goes...

I hang my doors, fenders with no additional mounts. I make use of the panels themselves and thats it.

First I hang the main body and have it complete and solid.

Next I start with the door, I hang the door at two locations on the rear of the door to the main body. Use flat pieces of sheetmetal that I overlap from the door to the body. I secure this tab by installing rivots through the door and through the body with two rivots on the door and two rivots on the body. I do this for the upper area and lower area.

Now the door is partially hung. Granted temporarily it is supported by a clamp in the front while securing the rear part of the door.

Now onto to the front of the door/rear of the front fender. I secure these in the same fashion. Metal sheetmetal tab overlapping behind the fender/door, now install your rivots; two on the fender, two on the door. Now do this on the lower side also.

Now basically your body is attached to your door, and door is attached to your fender. Your'll have to attach the front of the fender to a support arm of some fashion in the front, and to the nose.

Now the final step I do for the door/fender/body is I install a sheetmetal wrap that goes lengthwise from below door/fender area from wheel well, to wheel well. I make this sheetmetal wrap wide enough to go from lower body line to wrap down around to frame. I then install a line of rivots to secure door/fender/rear body. I also have the car in the air and rivot sheetmetal to the frame under the car.

You'll be amazed how solid all of your panels now are. You can sit on your door when climbing in and out of car and the best is when you crinkle up a fender or dent a door. This all can be taken apart in approx. 15-20 min. simply drill out the rivots and remove the pieces you need to.

I've attached a photo with circles of the areas where I have rivots I have talked about. You don't hardly notice them once the vinyl is on the car.

Also reference my website if you wish for more detailed photos. I have links on my site for every reskin I have done. Look for the rebuild links on the right side of the page.

If I've confused you, shoot me any questions for details.

Hope this helps.
www.geocities.com/sjrracing

Shawn

------------------
visit us at www.geocities.com/sjrracing


Koolaid
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 108
posted December 14, 2005 06:27 AM  
Thanks everyone for the ideas and pictures - Shawn and Flying Jack Ace - thanks for the PM's and links to more pictures - I apologize for not responding with a "thank you" sooner. I really liked the whole thought of a website that shows multiple years of a car - pretty cool to see a "history" of a dirt car. At least the body work is practically free compared to all the money I've been dumping in engines so far this winter!

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