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Author Topic:   Metric Car Motor Mounts
DeanHensler
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted October 24, 2005 02:23 PM  
I just bought an 86 monte carlo SC. It has a 4.3 liter V6 in it right now. I'm planning on putting a 350 with a 3 speed saginaw tranny in there. Will I need to move the motor mounts? I'm assumming I will. How hard is that?

robhbk24
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted October 24, 2005 03:10 PM  
yes and not that hard, check speedway,capitol or another race supplier and you can buy aftermarket steel mounts fairly cheap if your rules allow solid mounts. if not ask the tech to change the rules so you can if that doesn't work then run'em till someone notices,lol, or wait for one of these guys that has to run stock style mounts answers

DeanHensler
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted October 24, 2005 03:14 PM  
Do you have to weld them to the frame? Is it hard to get a correct measurement? I would think that would have to be pretty much exact or it wouldn't bolt to the tranny very well.

robhbk24
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted October 24, 2005 03:18 PM  
there are lots of ways to do it, personally i put the motor and tranny together slide them in where i want them then tack the mounts in place pull the whole thing out weld and reinstall. if your rules make you run the motor in stock loc with no setback then there should be factory holes to go by i would think if not you could drill and bolt. if your rules allow push the motor back as far as you can and fab up (or extend your old one) a new tranny mount

DeanHensler
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted October 24, 2005 03:27 PM  
The rules require that the V8 run in the original location. I'll check the frame out.

robhbk24
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted October 24, 2005 03:40 PM  
i saw your rules based on the "stock location" rule and the fact that you are not allowed to add any extra weight i would personally try to get the motor as far back as poss, your limiting factors are the fuel pump and the firewall. the firewall can be "gently massaged" with a hammer to gain a little bit of clearance for the dist and valve covers. it doesn't say that you can't use solid mounts so if money allows def go with them.if you have a number for the tech inspector i would make a call and find out just how strict they are about the stock loc, some inspectors take that as 100 percent factory stock whereever gm put it it stays and some inspectors (my favorite ones) will say stock loc means as long as it's under the hood and in front of the driver.

James Ott
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 131
posted October 24, 2005 06:04 PM  
LMAO

Raceman17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 165
posted October 25, 2005 08:37 AM  
If you are wanting to bolt the mounts into the stock location for a 350 use the first bolt hole on each side closest to the radiator. The back bolt and the lower bolt will line up with the correct holes if you do it this way. If you want you can take the lower control arm off to get to the bolts (through the spring pocket) or you can get to the bottom bolt with a long extension sticking through the hole in the frame where the lower a arm mounts. The two upper bolts can be take out by using a open ended wrench stuck through the two holes in each side of the frame where the stock fuel line goes. I recommend taping you extensions and socket together so you dont loose them in the frame. Also you can tape the bolts to the wrench and push them through the frame holes. Its not that hard to do.
Later

dtd_93
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 132
posted October 25, 2005 02:10 PM  
one guy at my track had his motor set back quiet alot and the rules stated the motor should be in the stock location and when it was brought to the tech's attention all the tech said is "the motor is under the hood isn;t it"... thought you guys might like that one

robhbk24
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted October 25, 2005 02:22 PM  
yea the term stock loc can have more than one definiton. OUr rules read that the battery must be located under the hood period that's all it says. mine is in the back behind the rear firewall behind my seat. some would say that i am tech illegal BUT the hood is higher than the battery so the battery is loc under the hood in my book maybe not directly under it but it is still "under" it.no one has ever complained or noticed yet but if they do and that excuse doesn't work then technically according to the dictionary using proper english the hood is in the rear and the bonnet is in the front ask anybody that has lived in europe. so my battery is in fact located under the hood and my motor is in the front under the bonnet.we only use proper english up here in NY.lol

magician227
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted October 25, 2005 05:02 PM  
I know everyone says to go with the solid mounts to reduce the flex from the engine torque, but I thought I would put my experience with solid mounts up here. Twice in my short racing career I have slapped the wall hard. First car had solid mounts and the engine was destroyed in the crash. the mounts held up just enough to bust the bolts out of the block. Second crash had urethane(sp?) mounts. The mounts sheared off and the engine was fine. I dont know if this is common, but I like the idea of not killing my block in a crash.

magician

johder
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 100
posted October 25, 2005 05:16 PM  
i personally like not hitting the wall period

James Ott
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 131
posted October 25, 2005 05:47 PM  
I'm not the driver, my kid is but I fix the car after it hits the wall. So yah I prefer he didn't hit the wall. Good point about the solids!

Raceman17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 165
posted October 25, 2005 07:19 PM  
To make the motor not flwx with rubber mounts weld a 1/2" bolt upside down (with the treads sitcking up) under the master cylinder on the frame. Go to the store and buy a small turn buckle. Rig it up so you can bolt one end to the read of the drivers side head and the other end to the bolt welded to the frame. Tighten the turn buckle up and then the motor is held from flexing. It works great and is out of the way.
Later

dirtyboy58
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 40
posted October 28, 2005 05:47 PM  
use solid mounts in stock location without cutting frame for fuel pump you can not move back far enough to make a difference been ther done not worth the time or money

MetricMonte
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 111
posted October 28, 2005 05:53 PM  
I tried the Speedway Solid mounts on my car when first building it and it didnt work out to well. My oil pan hit the frame before the engine got low enough for the bolts to line up going through the mounts. Not sure if it was a mount problem or what, went out and bought new stock mounts and it worked fine all year.

backwoodsracer
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 88
posted October 30, 2005 05:47 AM  
Alot of track rules that say engine in stock location usually will let a little setback go as long as you dont notch the frame behind the fuel pump to get more setback than pump clerance allows.I think even IMCA stock rules say the fuel pump cant be rear of the plane of the front of the crossmember.Even if you go back as far as you can with without altering the frame you get into driveshaft length problems.As for mounts I used the stock clamshell mounts on the engine that came on every chevy v-8 from the early 80's on back into Im guessing the 60's so they are easy to find and usually free.For the frame I took a piece of 1/2" id pipe and welded flat stock to both sides bolted to the engine mounts then set into the car got it where I wanted it and tacked into place.I have my frame x-braced so I built the trans mount off the x.It makes life easier if you make the trans mount removable.Hope this helps.

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