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Author Topic:   scarry loose
btennant
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted August 06, 2005 10:15 PM  
I run a G-BODY metric 86 if that helps it started handling poorly. I came on here and followed suggestions to get scarry loose. First was to change springs. (rf) 1200 (lf)1000 (lr)250 (rr)was 225 went back to stock spring didnt notice much difference. Next was to toss the sway bar. both the springs and sway made the front steer a little better but now if you look at the gas pedal your going for a ride.I have to run all the same size tires on 7 inch wheels with the same back spacing. But i did put a half inch spacer on left rear wheel. Tire pressures are (rf) 22 (lf) 20(lr)15 (rr)17. I run on a half mile track with medium banking and its usually always dry slick and a little rough. Tonight I had to slow way down to keep up if that makes any sense. Ihate going slow. Got a test n tune wedensday, gonna try (lr)weight and(rr) lighter spring any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanx

merlinmech2
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 131
posted August 07, 2005 07:59 AM  
check to make sure you don't have something loose in the suspension. loose trailing arm bushing or bent shock will cause that too. good luck.

btennant
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted August 07, 2005 08:44 AM  
I put on 4 new shocks friday

Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 316
posted August 07, 2005 08:52 AM  
Try starting with a few little changes sense you are running close to the preasures we do try lf-14 lr-16 rf-20 rr-20 and check all ball joints and tie rod ends something must be worn out and yes add weight to left rear but a little at a time.

hoosier transplant
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 104
posted August 07, 2005 09:22 AM  
I was chasing a loose condition all last year. Everything I tried to tighten it up didn't work. Three weeks ago I was just sitting there looking at car and it appeared that the right rear was back more than left side. Got under car and found it was 1/2 inch back, so I squared rearend and MAN what a difference. I know some do this on purpose, but my car does not like the rearend out of square. I actually have to tweak it so it doesn't push, or just get on the gas faster(which works better for me). Just a thought.

btennant
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted August 07, 2005 01:12 PM  
Thanks for the help ill check all bushings and ball joints and check to be sure the rear didnt move around on me but this car was a cherry little old lady car when i built it. Oh one other thing the (rr) tire will burn you after a 12 lap feature and the (lr) is just warm

btennant
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted August 07, 2005 01:15 PM  
Thanks for the help ill check all bushings and ball joints and check to be sure the rear didnt move around on me but this car was a cherry little old lady car when i built it. Oh one other thing the (rr) tire will burn you after a 12 lap feature and the (lr) is just warm

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted August 07, 2005 03:34 PM  
You know that it takes more than installing the suggested springs and shocks to get a car to handle. There's a ton of stuff that has to be right before your car will hook up and go. Do a little search and youo'll see that ride heighte, corner weights, tire choices,shock valving, weight transfer, bar angles, and many other things affect any racecar's ability to perform.
Start at the very front of your racecar and examine every part and piece on it. If it doesn't improve the safety, speed, or handling-get rid of it! Jack up your wheels and remove the springs and move the suspension thru every imaginable direction. I see a LOT of cars without adequate shock travel! Check yours. Metrics wor better a little higher that some of the other chassis. Set your ride heights an lf 7 1/2, rf 8 lr 8 1/2 rr 9. Hang your lower trailing arms about 1 1/2 inch lower than stock on the rear end (yes you'll have to weld some extensions) Lengthen both trailing arms the right one 1 inch, the left one 1 3/8 inch. Put rubber bushings in the upper links with about a half dozen 1/4" holes drilled in each. Take the tires off the car and attack them with a sanding disc-don't make smoke- just clean the rubber up. Get yourself some Track Claw and a roller and paint the tires Sunday Wednesday and Friday night.
Put the car on a set of scales and set the % like this: 54% left 54% rear 50% cross
If the car pushes, move a little weight off the left side towards the center.
Shop around for tires and get a little stagger (about an inch if the track is way dry slick)
That sounds like a lot of work--but you do all that and then come back and tell me that yoor car is loose and I will tell you that you have overlooked something-----because you have! Check everything!
You would be surprized how often the Hoosier transplant is right about the rear out of square----I lead the right side about 1/4"-3/8" to keep mine tight.
Good luck! Jojo

btennant
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted August 07, 2005 07:16 PM  
What points on the car should I measure from to get the ride heigth. Im not allowed to run different sized tires in my class not even supposed to add weight. I wrote down what you said and will do it bit I might have trouble getting my car to a set of scales

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted August 08, 2005 04:31 AM  
Measure at the point where the frame turns out in the front and runs parallel down the sides. In the rear measure at the point where the frame starts to turn up to go over the rear axle.
There are about a bazillion places to gain weight without bolting on ballast. The fuel cell can made out of 1/4" plate with the bottom made of 1/2" The round tubing that is actually cold rolled bar stock, the rear bumper re-inforcement. Get creative!
Different tire manufacturers will produce the same numerical tire with different roll outs---get out your stagger stick and go shopping!
If it's too much trouble to get your car to a set of scales you may have a problem.

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