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Author Topic:   heating problem
FOX
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted June 06, 2005 06:03 AM  
just wondering how much reduction pulleys will help on a heating problem

J3
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 188
posted June 06, 2005 06:51 AM  
They don't help. They will add to the problem. A 15% reduction will normally add about 5-10 degrees to your water temp and a 20-30 % reduction will add about 10-20 degrees to your water temp.


powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted June 06, 2005 07:16 AM  
J3 is right 1-1 is the best for cooling!

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted June 06, 2005 07:08 PM  
Be carefull when using a stock waterpump, they were designed to flow at low RPM's, At real high R's it can cavitate, in this instance slowing down the flow would help

stealth32
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted June 07, 2005 06:13 PM  
I agree with 97dirt. I run a stock water pump and have to use the smallest restrictor washer to keep the flow slowed down enough. If i go any larger then it does start to overheat.

Footlead
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 24
posted June 10, 2005 07:46 PM  
I cant keep the belts on with 1-1. I have a 35% reduction and aint lost a belt yet,,,it will run hotter ,,,,get the fan close to the radiator,,,,,I use the medium size washer. Nothing worse than running good and slinging belts off on a rough track,,,,also nothing worse than running good on a long green run and she starts getting hot,,,,start praying for a caution to cool her down.LOl

FOX
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted June 21, 2005 08:17 PM  
It says 1-1 pulley are only for low RPM engines,Will they be ok for Rpm around 6000rpm,an also what size restricter do u run in the water neck...TY

dirt_mopar99
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 94
posted June 21, 2005 10:54 PM  
When you say restrictor does that mean you run w/o a thermostat? Curious because I'm running hotter than I'd like.

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted June 22, 2005 12:39 AM  
if you are running hot its either timming, to lean on fuel, or your fan shroad ***** .

i run a hypertech thermostat 100% water, stock water pump and a 25% reduction pulley and untill last week had a 6 y/o aluminum radiator heating is not an issue as long as those three things are taking care of

your fan shroad is the most important thing under the hood. mine never gets over 200 degrees...never

powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted June 22, 2005 07:15 AM  
The absloute BEST thing you can do is go to Stewart water pumps website and follow the tech articles there. Want the right info? Go to the source! Ps and run a stewart pump.

FOX
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted June 23, 2005 05:50 AM  
so which is better 1-1 or 25 % reduction pulleys for the heating problem

imcaracer84
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted June 23, 2005 08:40 AM  
Man, how many times does this subject come up with misinformation? Here's the facts:

1. The water does not need TO SLOW DOWN in order for it to cool your engine better. In fact just the opposite it true. It's a closed system. Increased flow will increase your cooling ability.

2. The reason you may THINK that the water needs to be slowed down is because you may have used a restrictor with a stock water pump and it helped. The reason it helped isn't because it slows the water; it is because it has effectively increased the PRESSURE with your stock pump, which helps to keep the coolent from boiling away from the metal surfaces in the engine.

1. Want to solve your cooling problems forever? Spend some money and do this:

a. Buy a Stewart Stage 3 water pump.
b. Use 1 to 1 pulleys as long as you are running 7000 rpms or less on gas.
c. Buy a good aluminum radiator as big as you can fit in the car.
d. Use a solid four blade fan that doesn't flex.
e. Use a fan shroud with the fan positioned so it is about half way in the shroud.
f. Throw the thermostat and restrictor out.
g. Jet your carburetor correctly. Eliminate any vacuum leaks. Learn to read your plugs. Set the timing right.

Once you do this you will run under 200 on any given night. If you overheat with these mods, chances are you blew a head gasket and/or cracked a head.



powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted June 23, 2005 09:24 AM  
AMEN brother! amen

eenfield
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 116
posted June 23, 2005 04:23 PM  

imcaracer, in the JR Motorsports catalog, they say that " Stewart stage three high flow water pumps require a Stewart/Robert Shaw high performance themostat for proper performance."

Other wise I couldnt agree more...

powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted June 24, 2005 04:51 AM  
I Run a Stewart stage 1 water pump with a Robertshaw thermostat. I think the reason for the warning is the stage 3 pumps do not have the bypass hole? so a restrictor or wide open would work with these pumps.

8 fan
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 9
posted June 26, 2005 02:53 PM  
Try using water wetter, lowers your temp 20 deg. and lubes your water pump!! Works for me I run 190 deg. stock water pump and pulleys!!

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted June 26, 2005 10:31 PM  
unlike alot of people i dont go by what i read i go by what i try and works best.

no need in spending a but load of money that wont make you any safer or faster. i do agree alot of false info is spread on here but i ran a high compression engine. with stock camaro 3 row raiator, 6 blade steel fan, 25% reduction pulleys and a 19.99 stock autozone water pump. for 2 years it never ran hot and i was using a 5/8 restrictor in the neck.

1 more time good shroad
timming
correct jetting you will not have a heating issue

imcaracer84
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted June 27, 2005 08:37 AM  
The Shaw Thermostat is for street driving with a Stage 3, not racing. That's straight from Stewart.

If you're running cool with a stock pump and a stock three row brass copper then good for you. When you step up to an engine that makes some power you'll need to change that though

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted June 27, 2005 09:18 PM  
that was a 388 350 .060 over 11.5to1 domes .630 lift dart heads 6 in rods. probably pushing 525 hp and the torqiest engine ive ever sat down with.. only reason i had the brass radiator is because a bar went throught the aluminum, and then it cooled the same so i stuck with it..

i dont beleive in putting money into anything that doesnt get you to the front or make the car safer. if it works why change it?

imcaracer84
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted June 28, 2005 07:55 AM  
Over ten years of racing has taught me that reliability plays a key role in getting to the front and staying there. How many cars do you see on any given night fall out of competition due to mechanical failure? How many racers have you heard after the race say that they would have won if this or that hadn't broke?

A forged crank that isn't lightened wont get you to the front any faster, but is it better to have than a cast one? How about a better than stock dampner? A good oil pan? Quality valves? How about using a floater instead of a regular rear end with disc brakes? They both hold the axles in place in case of failure, but one is stronger than the other. How many times have you heard the argument that claimer engines are bad because they are unreliable? Any competent engine builder can make a "claimer motor" make over 500 hp, but the difference between that and one with good parts comes down to one thing: reliability.

Your stock water pump and 3 core brass radiator may have worked under your specific circumstance, but can you say it will work under all conditions? What if you were spinning the motor another 1000 rpm, or racing on a tight stop and go track, or running a wet heat race when a lot of mud gets caked on the radiator?

I'm also concerned with getting to the front. That's why I buy a good aluminum water pump instead of a heavy stock cast iron ones. It's a small diet, but every pound off the front of the car helps.

I've been around racing enough to know that, by and large, most of the engine failures out there begin by overheating the engine. And, even building a claimer engine will cost you close to 2 grand. If you're spending that, what's another 400 for a good radiator and an aluminum high flow water pump?

Racing is expensive. And, many of the new guys I've seen will end up smoking an engine because they took short cuts on the cooling system (i.e. a 3 core stock radiator and a stock pump). Then they're at the limit of their budget and out for the rest of the year. I prefer not to give them advice that they might-possibly-maybe could get by with the stock stuff that may or may not cool their engine when they have the timing off or have a lean carb or a big vacuum leak or any of the other 100 things new racers do wrong.

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted June 28, 2005 01:48 PM  
i do agree with you the only problem i have with telling people what to buy is that if they dont know they are more than likely new to the sport and may not stick around to long..im sure you know it has its highest point and then the point where you dont want to load the car.

this year i did go with the stage 2 pump, as well as a double pass afco radiator.

but with a good tunned engine and good shroad a brass radiator will do fine thats why i tell people that then if they want to step it up the next year or so they can, and will have spares in case something happens. the first 2 years i raced almost on no budget and learned alot and had more fun. then i stepped it up bought the best parts i could and strugled to make a race much less finish one. finnally got it all worked out and having a great time..thats what this is all about..

powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted June 29, 2005 08:59 AM  
I also don't want new racers buying the latest go faster parts. BUT a new water pump is $24 and a new stewart is $74 a new Brass radiator is all of $125 a new Alum is $180 An engine is the single biggest item in a racecar and if you trash one by cutting $100 off your budget and have to set out the season what did you accomplish. A used radiator is a risky investment at best (what if the guy used ceramic seal in it and now all the tubes are coated with an insulating coating of it).

petordragon
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 167
posted July 16, 2005 10:15 PM  
kill switch for over temp is good investment.

FOX
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted July 26, 2005 06:02 AM  
Hey Guys Thanks for all the advice! Still having heating problems though,Ive changed,Pulleys to 25%reduction pulleys,Brand new 6 blade steel fan no restrictor housing,Fan is sticking just inside of the shroud,a little of it hangs outside,Ive been running my temp guage on the passinger side head,ive got a neew water pump now stock,tryed wetter water,sitting still the car climbs to 210 in about 10 mins
i have a bypass hose going from the water pump to the intake it got up to 240 in 7 laps the other night in heat race,any extra input would help.and once again thanks!

FOX
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 28
posted July 27, 2005 05:57 AM  
Also, im getting small air bubbles into my radiator and a big one every 5 seconds while the motor is running,the water rises as it gets hotter!

mansfief
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 128
posted July 27, 2005 08:16 AM  
I would say you have a blown head gasket.

Shess71
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted August 05, 2005 10:00 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by FOX:
just wondering how much reduction pulleys will help on a heating problem

i didi'nt see anyone ask the most important question of all WHAT SIZE MOTOR? i ran 355 last year it never went over 180 now this year we're running 406 get 220 -240 every night so realy you need to see what he's running before you go trouble shooting

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