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Author Topic:   replacing pressed in rocker stud?
rollingviolation
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted April 27, 2005 07:06 PM  
This should be subtitled when cam swaps go bad...

installing a .450 lift cam and new springs in my Camaro, and I have one rocker stud that's bent. I pulled the head - I have another head that might be the same and/or I can call a machine shop, but is it possible for a home mechanic to remove and replace the studs? I don't have a press, but I do have a BFH.

At least I know for sure it's a 350 and not a 305 now.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted April 27, 2005 07:12 PM  
They are easy to pull but to be safe sense you are not putting screw in studs just take the head to maching shop and let them put it in. In the future or now you might think of putting in screw in studs and then you wont have a problem.

Raceman17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 165
posted April 28, 2005 05:35 AM  
Speedway motors sells a cheap stud puller for around 20 bucks. After you get the stud pulled call up "Performance Automotive Warehose" (PAWS) in califorina. They sell a tool that can be chucked up in a drill (not a drill press) and you can machine the stude down yourself. The tool is designed to take the exact lengeth off of the boss and leave you with the correct height for screw in studs. It has a stud on the toool that uses the exsisting hole from the pulled stud as a guide. The tool is made be Crane cams. I have one and I love it. You do a set of heads once and it more than pays for itself. By the way the cost for that tool was 50 dollars but it was well worth it.
Later

rollingviolation
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted April 28, 2005 08:02 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by Raceman17:
Speedway motors sells a cheap stud puller for around 20 bucks. After you get the stud pulled...

Aha. So you do need a tool to pull them out. I'm headed out to the shed to check my other heads I got as spares - if they're ok I'll be ok for now and get this one rebuilt eventually. If not, I think I might spring for a machine shop to do screw in studs - our rules allow for it - I've seen some rules that only allow for pinned studs.


Raceman17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 165
posted April 28, 2005 08:16 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by rollingviolation:
Aha. So you do need a tool to pull them out.

Yes, the studs are in there pretty tight. A little heat and that tool and they come out easier.
Later


powerglides
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted April 28, 2005 09:37 AM  
Just stack a bunch of washers on it and use the nut and an impact to pull it out. Then can use a screw in one, without the hex on it just by tapping the hole or for a .450 lift cam put in a new press in one in (with LOCTITE for press fits) and RUN IT! it is not much strain in valve train at all

Raceman17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 165
posted April 28, 2005 11:28 AM  
I tried using the screw in studs without the hex on it and it is very hard to get them to seal up. They are suppose to be torqued down to around 50 ft*lbs. When I put two nuts together to make a jam nut, I could never get 50 lbs of torque on it without spinning the jam nuts. I never got them to seal. I would always have a little drip coming from them. Thats why I bought all the other tools and they worked perfectly. Maybe you have had better luck.
Later

quote:
Originally posted by powerglides:
Just stack a bunch of washers on it and use the nut and an impact to pull it out. Then can use a screw in one, without the hex on it just by tapping the hole


Steve Dupree
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 316
posted April 28, 2005 04:11 PM  
We use the retainer that goes on right before the nut just use like as many as you need and the stud will come right out. If needed heat it a little then try but probally wont have too. We pulled all of ares that way and put in screw in studs with teflon tape.

rollingviolation
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted April 28, 2005 05:56 PM  
Brought them into the machine shop... what a mess...

They have new valve guides, but the PO didn't install them properly - they stick up too high and would probably have made contact with the retainers with the new cam.

One stud was broken, one was bent. There's also a small crack in one exhaust port they're gonna fix. If they didn't have 1.94 valves I'd probably toss them. (my spare heads only have 1.7 intakes.)

Maybe next year I'll afford a nice new (rebuilt) motor - I've run out of time and money. (first race is next weekend and the engine is half apart and I keep breaking stuff as fast as I reassemble it.)

At least the valves, guides and seats are good. I also learned the 624 castings use different retainers for intake and exhaust because the seats are different heights.

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