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Author Topic:   sway bar setup
Speedracer92
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 70
posted April 03, 2005 04:00 PM  
For those that run a front sway bar and use the left side to adjust with, how do you have the left side set up? A double nut on top and nothing on the bottom of the bar and it moves freely unless tension is put on the top? Or do you have a nut on top and bottom and keep them tight and just move the bar up and down if you want to adjust it? Thanks guys!

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted April 03, 2005 06:07 PM  
Bind one side up tight and adjust the other. I always made the rf stationary and adjusted the left. Then I went to dirt racing and removed the sway bar completely.

GARYAL
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 94
posted April 04, 2005 04:17 AM  
i used to run one on my ss before they started allowing weight jacks. I welded a 2.5"x2.5" plate on the left side of the sway bar and put a 1.5" piece of tube about 1" tall on it. then welded a piece of 4" steel on the frame rail in line with the plate on the sway bar. put a nut in the plate with a 1" treaded rod going threw it. instant weight jack. our rules only mentioned weight jacks not being allowed on the springs so that was the how to get around it. it worked real well. it only ever gave me problems if i had to try to dodge a wreck by turning to the right or if the track got very very rutted. even then it was savable just very squirly. the spring rate would jump around a little in the ruts or turning right.

mrteeshot
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 127
posted April 04, 2005 07:33 AM  
I am confused on how to set a preload on the sway bar (I run mostly on asphalt!) wouldnt ya want the r/f to already have a load on it so as to keep the left from swaying up as it sets to go through the turns ? I am just going on advice from an old schooler who used to run a pure class car.
but value any suggestions

thanks in advance

petordragon
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 167
posted April 04, 2005 11:07 AM  
I took rhs side mounted it stock with the poly bushings. then the left side I have a piece of all thread lock nut then bushing above sway bar,then a bushing below a arm then a spring that fits over that 3/8 all thread then single lock nut. leave the spring unmashed for tacky track then crank it down tight pulling sway bar towards a arm for dry slick. measure from bottom of sway bar to top of a arm keeping track so you have a general idea about how much to adjust it.

WALLSRACING87
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted April 04, 2005 11:12 AM  
I ALWAYS USE TO BREAK MINE....FINALLY GOT A COUPLE OF HEAD BOLTS AND VALVE SPRINGS.....2 SPRINGS ON RIGHT 1 ON LEFT WORKS GREAT

Speedracer92
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 70
posted April 04, 2005 02:37 PM  
Ok I am dumb on this one I guess. I understand tightening the sway bar down on the left side when needed but can the bar move down freely on the left side other than the spring you are putting in there?

petordragon
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 167
posted April 05, 2005 05:26 PM  
YES TECHNICALY IT COULD BUT WITH PRELOAD IT WON'T YOU'LL BE SURPRIZED JUST HOW MUCH CROSS WEIGHT YOU CAN PUT INTO ONE WITH THE SWAY BAR. IF I CRANK MINE DOWN TIGHT I CAN DROP THE LEFT SIDE AN INCH OR TWO AND RAISE THE RHS 5 TO 6 INCHES.

Raz_900
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 635
posted April 05, 2005 06:10 PM  
Couple things I can think of...

1.) If it's a 1" sway bar from a 'normal' Metric car, don't bother. Throw it away and get a 1 1/4" bar from a SS or LS V8 car. The 1" bar is too weak to make much of a difference.

2.) Mount the right side with poly bushings and stock or +1" link. Use a 1/2" bolt with washers and a locknut on the left. On a normal track, give about 1/2" play in the bolt. Then crank it down when the track goes slick. With the 1 1/4" bar, I noticed a 10# change when preloading it 1/2" (-10 on LF, +10RF, +10 LR and -10 RR).

3.) Watch how far you tighten it. With a stock RF link, it is possible to bind up the tie rod. Trust me on this one... that's not a good thing. If the tracks bumpy enough that the LF compresses and binds the steering, it makes driving pretty difficult.

4.) Use poly or solid mounts on the bar-frame. Once the slack is taken up, you want instant, consistent and full response from the bar. Rubber bushings are too soft and defeat the purpose.

5.) The bar effectively adds RF spring when it tightens up. A 1" bar will 'only' add about 100# when fully loaded. The 1 1/4" bar can add 200#+ when loaded. That's why I say the 1" bar isn't worth it. When I tried one it didn't seem to make much difference.. even when it was as tight as I could get it (See binging steering above). I'd only used the 1" bar 'cause the 1 1/4" bar I started with was bent in a nasty accident. Found another 1 1/4" bar and I won't go back to a 1" again. I'll run without run and up the RF spring 100# first.

Hope that helps.
Steve

[This message has been edited by Raz_900 (edited April 05, 2005).]

pdub25
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 57
posted April 06, 2005 01:49 PM  
I run mine pretty much the same as Raz, except I do use the stock 1" sway bar. Mounted stock on the right with urethane bushings, and on a through bolt on the left, starting with about 1/8 " of slack on the sway bar. No springs or bushings between the lower a arm and the sway bar. Tighten it down as the track dries out, but as Raz said, don't over do it. Also, i run 1000 lb lf and a 1050 rf spring. I run on a high bank 3/8 mile dirt mainly, but have had good luck with this setup on other tracks as well.

Speedracer92
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 70
posted April 06, 2005 01:54 PM  
Thanks guys!

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