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Author Topic:   body work/new skins
doubletrouble racing
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 88
posted February 09, 2005 10:25 PM  
I have been sitting around long enough with the purestocker naked up on jackstands(no fenders,doors,hood or trunk lids)Went last month and got new ones to put on...been lazy up to know.Today I started working on the rear quarters which I left on,they were pretty bang up but with a long rock bar,Numerios hammers and an old scissor jack out of my wifes 87 camero I got it looking pretty good.There are a few creases along the corner where the lights use to go...not sure what I should do with them.About to install the new door and fender skins,in the past we welded them on....but it seems to me it caused more damange after a few guys rub and pushed on us,it seems when its conected to gather a fender hit also damanges the doors.I was wanting to bolt fenders and doors on for easy removal and repair.And was also thinking about leaving gaps,expansion joints so to speak to try and cut down on damange.What do you guys do in installing new skins...weld, bolt on,any tricks for quick easy repairs.Any tricks you guys have with this would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance!

The opinions,thoughts,and comments of double trouble are that of the car owner and are not affiliated with the driver "Dirt Track Girl" , the track Hill Country Raceway ,or any other outside person or institution

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 516
posted February 10, 2005 04:08 AM  
We slide the front fenders back a couple inches then let the door overlap the quaters and the fenders enough to rivet everything together. Makes it easy to remove the doors if you need to. I use 3/4 square tubing to mount the body panels.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 254
posted February 10, 2005 05:37 AM  
I basically do the same principle as walton, with the exception of I use a sheetmetal tab behide the door/fender and rivet through the door into the sheetmetal tab.

For the door to the body (rear area) I grind a slot by C Pillar for the sheet metal tab to slide through, and then on the door side just rivet to the back side of the door.

This way like walton said, it makes it as simple as drilling out a few rivets to remove panels. 15 min.

If you want reference my website, I believe I have some photos of this, Look at the photos of "rebuilding 2003, 2004 car" link. Should help you out.

Good Luck!!


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Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted February 10, 2005 06:08 AM  
I too am into the tabs, but I found that using 1/4-20x3/4 bolts thru the door and then thru the tab kept it much more secure than pop rivits. I have taken shots in the door that caused all the rivits in the door to either fail or become loose. Another trick I use: make hinges for the hood out of aluminum angle. You will want to make the "pin" in the hinge several inches behind the mounting point so that, as the hood raises, it moves out from the cowl. Mount the other half of the hinge to a small bracket welded to the front loop. In the event of a "fender bender" your hood doesn't get wrinkled up with the fender.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 344
posted February 10, 2005 06:50 AM  

We do the same as Eljojo,we use 1/4 bolts on tabs takes about 10 min to take most of the body apart.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted February 10, 2005 03:58 PM  
bolts have atendancey to loosen use rivets the less things to give a flat the better nothing worse than leading on the white and have a bolt go thru a tire

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted February 12, 2005 11:19 PM  
thats what they make locking nuts for

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