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Author Topic:   Heres my rules Help me find ways to be createtive
mrteeshot
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 127
posted December 28, 2004 08:45 PM  
2005 Factory Sleds and Figure-8 Rules

2005 Factory Sled and Figure 8’s

This class is intended to be an affordable, entry-level division with the emphasis on fun. If you take racing too seriously, this division is not for you. If you must win every race, at any cost; racing is not for you!

Rule # 1. If this rulebook does not say you can do it, DON’T DO IT!! NO EXCEPTIONS!!

2. Any American made automobile with a wheelbase of 112” or more will be allowed to compete. No leaf spring cars allowed. 4-door models and station wagons are encouraged.

3. Car must remain in its original form as manufactured. No alterations of any kind, except for those specifically allowed in this rulebook. All parts must be used as intended by manufacturer. Engine only may be swapped, make-to-make, provided it was comparable to original engine.

4. A 4-point roll cage of .095 min. wall tubing is required and must remain within the interior portion of the car. No bar may pass through firewalls. One straight brace (not to exceed 1-3/4” dia.) is allowed to connect left and right front frame horns only. 1/8” x 24” x 24” drivers side steel doorplate is required. A 12” x 18” kick plate to protect driver’s legs is recommended.

5. Both bumpers must be chained to frame for safety. Wrecker hooks of adequate size must be installed in bumpers.

6. All Inner panels must remain intact except driver’s side for door bar installation. Doors must be welded shut.

7. Front inner fender wells must be removed for fire safety.

8. Hood and trunk must be accessible for safety personnel without using a tool of any kind. Operational hood & trunk hinges with springs must be used.

9. All glass must be removed except for windshield which may be replaced by 1/8” lexan only. No plexiglass allowed.

10. Safety Rules- See “Safety” on page 3 of this rulebook.

11. Battery may be relocated to trunk.

12. Battery and fuel tank must be secured by (two) 1” metal straps. Racing fuel cell recommended. Fuel tank may not extend below frame.

13. Any 7” standard offset steel wheel is permitted. No “made for racing” wheels allowed. Wagon wheels, ok. Street radial tires only, 70-Series max.

14. Engine must meet OEM specs. .030 overbore, ok. No aftermarket or performance enhancing components allowed. Engine must draw a minimum of 15 inches vacuum at 800 rpm, in gear. Maximum cam lift: GM engines- .410, Ford engines- .420

15. No port fuel injected engines allowed. Throttle body fuel injection, ok.

16. “Camel Back” heads not allowed. Any engine component considered to be “high performance”, even if it is stock, is not allowed.

17. Aftermarket pulleys are not allowed.

18. Stock automatic transmission only. No powerglides. Must have working reverse gear.

19. Transmission cooler allowed in engine compartment only.

20. Transmission dip stick tube and top of transmission must vent into a single overflow can mounted to front of firewall.

21. Radiator must have 1 gallon over-flow catch-can (or) mount overflow tube at center of windshield in clear view of officials. Aluminum radiator allowed.

22. No aftermarket air cleaners, air filters or dress-up items allowed. Valve covers may be changed to allow for breather-type valve cover. Air cleaner cover may not be flipped over.

23. Single exhaust only- 2.5” max OD with stock muffler, exiting behind driver.

24. Open rearends only. No posi-traction.

25. Stock OEM springs only. Both front springs must be identical in rate and length. Both rear springs must be identical in rate and length. No spring blocks, spacers, shims, rubbers, cups or similar devices allowed.

26. No camber allowed. When using a carpenter’s square, top and bottom of tire will be square with ground.

27. All trailer hitches and similar add-ons must be removed.

28. ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENT FOR FIG- 8’s - STRICTLY ENFORCED: Minimum 3 right side door bars and 1/8” steel right side door plate, 24” x 24” min.

29. If questions remain regarding these rules, SEE RULE NUMBER 1.

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racing is way too cool gave up golf for it

http://chasinracin.com/cgi-bin/showpage.pl?ID=on_my_6

robhbk24
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted December 29, 2004 02:11 PM  
i'm thinkin you should run a late 80's lincoln strech limo with an throttle body injected 460 bb.kick it sideways through the corners and hold on

dirt_freek
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 29
posted December 29, 2004 06:43 PM  
this is not USA figure 8 correct

If you give me you phone # I can give you some insight do you run against #43 Dan VanDabrink if so I know what your doing pm me with you # and I will give you a call to help you out

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real racers do it in the dirt

bobaluuu
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 474
posted December 29, 2004 06:56 PM  
find an old mopar cordoba/or magnum/ or fury with a 360 cu and a big 4 bbl carb. these cars are torsion bar cars and can be adjusted easily without them even knowing what your doing(most of the time). strip off all the right side weight behind the panels and anywhereelse they cant see it gone
specially under and around the bumper and headers. stick the thickest piece of weight you can find under the fuel cell that wont show(even pound out the trunk floor some)paint it all with a ruberized coating.take a
leaf out of each rear spring to allow weight to transfer(save em) cram any weight you can down into those hidden crevasesin front of the rear fenderwell, find someone or set it yourself(alignment)1/4 toed out/camber at 0/caster as hi as it will go. get a big heavy battery and mount it back on the left rear over the axle. What ever you use to make a mount for the batt and cell make it as thick and big as you can and hide weight under it. then go have fun, cause thats what the class really is for. By the way mopars fan clutch system works better than a straight drive. get a racing cap and let er rip till it gets to 230. most regularfactory diators are very clogged and rotten. get it rodded and repaired or replaced before you run it

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Light it up, Baby!

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted December 29, 2004 07:28 PM  
i'm thinking a late 80's early 90's capirce classic,you know,an old cop car or taxi cab.right wheel base,coil springs,big motor,big radiator,tranny cooler,good springs,big sway bars.the only problem i foresee is they came with a posi.heck you could rip it out,put in a single legger,and sell the chunk on ebay for more than you payed for the car!

imcaracer84
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 33
posted December 30, 2004 08:21 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by mrteeshot:
2. Any American made automobile with a wheelbase of 112” or more will be allowed to compete. No leaf spring cars allowed. 4-door models and station wagons are encouraged.

[/B]


He can't run a Mopar. They don't allow leaf springs.

Donnie Ross
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted December 31, 2004 07:00 AM  
go to police auction get a 98 up crown vic (about$300) pull the 4.6 put in a 351 windsor 4bbl and go, car has 4 link, watts linkage rear end, 4 wheel disks, lightwieght, handle real well

Eljojo
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 968
posted December 31, 2004 06:23 PM  
Metric El Camino 406 sbc ---dust off a shelf for the trophies

I-B-RACIN
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 132
posted January 01, 2005 08:07 AM  
I agreee with te33 find a caprice wouldnt nessasarily have to be a police car but at least have a v-8. body parts and panels well in abundance for those cars

mrteeshot
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 127
posted January 02, 2005 04:20 PM  
thanks for the help since my rules allow throttle body injection any body have any info on this and how much work is it to change over ,tune and maintain ?

my buddy has a good running 350 sbc throttle injected - that he will part with what ya think

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racing is way too cool gave up golf for it

http://chasinracin.com/cgi-bin/showpage.pl?ID=on_my_6

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