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Author Topic:   stall converter vs stock torque converter
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 120
posted July 13, 2004 08:53 PM  
We are thinking about going to an 1800 rpm stall converter to get rid of the slippage of the stock converter. We are thinking this should improve the starts and restarts ....and all the way thru the corners. Would this make for a big improvement? Or should we be looking elsewhere? If any of you have more pro's or con's of using one please let us know.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 635
posted July 13, 2004 09:58 PM  
Get a TCI cirletrack convertor. Cutting weight is much more important than stall speed.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 776
posted July 14, 2004 08:36 AM  
Does anybody know the weight differance between these three: hollow converter, functional converter, diret drive coupler. I know whats lighter etc. but was wondering the weights of them.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted July 14, 2004 04:35 PM  
so how does 1 of those hollow converters work ????
no fluid in them do you need extra parts ?
they come as a kit ? do they really work and if so what are the basic principals of it?

racing is way too cool gave up golf for it

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted July 14, 2004 07:22 PM  
get a converter from a Vega

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 429
posted July 15, 2004 05:05 AM  
Bought a t 350 once had a stall with it so I tried it during a open pratice and when the track was perfect it felt like it did lauch me out the corners but 9 out 10 times it makes the rear just snap loose and I quickly found out that I was on the wrong track for a stall. stalls are for going strait LOL

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 254
posted July 15, 2004 06:03 AM  
I have exactly what you are looking for.....

I have a Hallow convertor I am selling.

It tremendously makes response better. How it works. My convertor is hallow and allows fluid in it, and has a drain plug. They drill a small hole in 1st gear for a bleed off. So 1st gear will slip some so it doesn't kill the car, then drive is direct with no slippage. You take off in 1st, when your moving you just shift up to drive. Physically on the outside of the tranny and inside the car everything is exactly the same. All the changes are done internally.

I bought it from Bushore, and ran it only one night, my rules mirror IMCA which this convertor I believe is legal for, yet my track said its not legal so its been sitting since test n tune.

I paid $285 for it, ran it one night, will sell for $225.

Can contact me at

visit us at

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 32
posted August 01, 2004 06:23 AM  
weve used a stall converter for years tune our gear,gm jumps from 2.73 to 3.08 with nothin in between redily available. we run a 350 turbo in first gear w\2.73 with a 2000 stall in our ss on our track and its just about the same rpms at top end as a 2.90 gear(which we cant find)for a metric

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 132
posted August 01, 2004 09:35 AM  
If you have to run a stock functinal converter go to a 200 metric trans with 273 gear gives you a final about the same as a 350turbo and 292 gear.Trans and converter is way lighter with the 200. Those gears are out there but hard to find. Had two sets sold them both I liked the 200 better. 2.92 gear came out of a 82 buick lesabre,diesel with overdrive trans.

[This message has been edited by I-B-RACIN (edited August 01, 2004).]

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted August 01, 2004 10:44 AM  
i ran a 200 metric in 2nd with 3:42 for three seasons with no problems. had a slightly better than stock converter and had good clutches in it. i pulled on the track in first popped it in 2nd and left it there.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted August 02, 2004 02:14 PM  
I must say this has me kind of confused about the torque converter issue. I'm thinking that as long as I keep the car above let's say 2000 rpm (depending on the converter) the converter is locked and I don't have to worry about "slippage" or the vanes in the converter allow fluid flow? right?

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted August 02, 2004 07:41 PM  
No to both hutch and racer17......converters never actually 100% lock up, that is the point. Here is an insert from a powerglide racing tech article.

To reduce slippage:

Use a low-stall torque converter. Low stall means the flash-stall point is somewhere between 1,800 and 2,600 rpm. Heavier cars of 3,000 pounds or more would want to be closer to 1,800-rpm flash-stall speed. Lighter cars less than 3,000 pounds can work better with a torque-converter stall speed rated closer to a 2,200- or 2,600-rpm flash stall. The right torque converter can reduce slippage from about 12 percent with a completely stock converter down to two to five percent. Slippage equals lost power and reduced responsiveness.

10% less "slippage" and better response on every start and restart and out of every corner. Hard to argue with that.

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