Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   oil pressure problem
supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 14, 2004 07:30 AM  
I had a weird thing happen to my oil pressure last night. Everything was fine until a couple laps into my heat. The oil pressure dropped to 20 psi in the straights and all the way down to 3 or 4 psi in the corners. I pulled in and as soon as I slowed down to pull off the track the oil pressure returned back to normal. I checked oil lines (remote filter) and oil level. Everything seemed to be fine. I went out for the feature and it did the same thing. It would drop to 3 or 4 in the corner and 20 in the straights. When I slowed down it returned to normal. I plan on dropping the pan tonight to check for blockage. Is there anything else that I should check on while I'm at it? What else can cause this? It's a Ford 400 with a baffled oil pan and hi-vol pump. Thanks for any help.

Flanndad
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 255
posted June 14, 2004 08:50 AM  
WIth a remote filter your not pinching off the lines when the body rolls are you?

What kind of filter?
If it's a fram get rid of it.

supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 14, 2004 09:13 AM  
I can't imagine the oil lines pinching off. They are free from any imposition. I also use Baldwin filters. This was coming off a fresh oil change. Can oil filters do this?

odb93
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 537
posted June 15, 2004 02:28 PM  
Sounds like a case of fallen oil pick up.

Does this pan out?? When you are on the track, the oil is not getting picked up which decreases your pressure. When you are setting still in the pits, all the oil is in the bottom of the pan and is being pumped through the system.

supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 15, 2004 03:10 PM  
Yup. That's what it was. It actually broke off close to where it's mounted. No chunks of metal in the pan though. That's a lot of work for a cheap part. I guess that's better than a little work for an expensive part. Thanks!

steve nolen
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 12
posted June 15, 2004 08:44 PM  
better check them bearings while you got it out that happend to me about 4 weeks ago put it back in only to find i spun a bearing and ruined my motor make sure you spot weld the pickup tupe to the oil pump also.


supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 17, 2004 11:25 AM  
Uh-oh. The motor is back in the car and it's still doing the same thing. It wasn't the pick up tube, at least not entirely. The tube wasn't entirely broken, but was cracked at the top. I did check the bearings and they look fine. I also checked the pump and it seems everything is OK. How do you tell if a pump is bad? It's usually pretty obvious if it's bad, isn't it? Does anybody else have any other ideas? I have to run this thing tomorrow and I'm a little nervous.

steve nolen
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 12
posted June 17, 2004 04:00 PM  
did you check your clearance between the pickup and the bottem of pan, might be that you need like a 1/4 inch between them.other than that i would change the oil pump .i know on mine when the pickup fell off it sucked air and burn up the main bearings.im no engine builder or nothing just tryin to help out. if you take the oil pump apart check the gears in it
www.stevenolenjr.com


supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 17, 2004 11:11 PM  
I did take the oil pump apart. I'm no mechanic either. My father-in-law is and according to him it looked fine. I should have just replaced it when I had it open. I think I'll take it apart and put a new pump in. I can't think of anything else it would be. Thanks Steve.

Raz_900
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 635
posted June 18, 2004 08:57 AM  
Maybe a stupid question, but have you tried another gauge?


supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 18, 2004 10:18 AM  
That's not a stupid question. I'm dumb for not stating that that was the first thing I checked for. A faulty oil gauge has been ruled out. My friend says the reason I'm having troubles is because I drive a Ford. If he keeps this up, I may have to hit him over the nose with a rolled up newspaper.....again.

Donnie Ross
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted June 18, 2004 02:41 PM  
have you ran this pan before? without probs, the reason i am asking is ive heard of some pans where the baffling can actually slow drain back to the sump causing this problem.

supwitchew
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted June 18, 2004 03:12 PM  
I ran it all last year and the first few races of this year without problems. I bought the car fresh and race ready last year. I'm still learning the nuts and bolts. I will say that the baffled pan was of the "home made" type and I really didn't understand how it could work. The guy that built the motor has been around a while and does nothing but win, so I try not to doubt him too much.

odb93
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 537
posted June 22, 2004 11:35 AM  
Ok here is what you do.
1.Remove the oil line from the block leaving an open hole. (we did this on the top of the block)

2.Remove the distributor.

3.Take a piece of all thread that will fit your black and decker drill. Take a grinder and smooth out one end of the all thread. Make it look like a flat screw driver.

4. Insert fabricated screw driver bit in drill and insert in hole where the distributor lives.

5. Spin pump with drill. The oil should shoot up through the hole where you unhooked the gauge.


ryan
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 776
posted June 23, 2004 06:09 PM  
I forget how we made it but we took an old distributor and made it so we could hook a 1/2inch drill to it. You just hook it down like you would for a normal dist. Thats what we use to prime our motors before we start them.

51racing
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 138
posted June 24, 2004 08:19 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by ryan:
I forget how we made it but we took an old distributor and made it so we could hook a 1/2inch drill to it. You just hook it down like you would for a normal dist. Thats what we use to prime our motors before we start them.


It's actually pretty easy, just take cap, rotor and everything off the top, then knock out the roll pin that holds the gear on the bottom and you're ready to go. Drop it in, hook up a drill and spin it over.

Back to the Archives