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Author Topic:   Driveshaft
mrteeshot
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 127
posted March 26, 2004 08:57 PM  
if I shorten my drive shaft
my buddy is an awesome welder but should I still have it balanced ?

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted March 26, 2004 11:03 PM  
Welding isnt the problem, its getting the thing timed and straight. Those u-joints will rattle your teeth out if they are out of time.

racerguy500
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 168
posted March 27, 2004 04:35 PM  
I worked for a driveshaft company for awhile and he NEVER balanced anything for a race car, if the customer requested balanced he welded a washer on on end and charged $65 to do it. The shaft never saw the balance machine at all. It was straght and that was good enough. Needless to say that is when I quit there and went to work for myself as I would rather make an honest dollar than 2 that way, but bottom line is, with all the bouncing and and tweaking that occurs anyway, you'll never notice the difference. A little mud on it and the balance is out the window anyway, like was mentioned, gotta be timed right and straight, welding will tweak it on it's own. Good luck.

19J
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 370
posted March 28, 2004 12:51 AM  
My brother(not a professional) has welded ALOT of them(mostly street or derby cars). I know one truck that is still going and that was done abotu 5 years ago. He has never had one break. He has also never had the ujoints mess up either.

gould
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 730
posted March 28, 2004 06:06 AM  
if you wanna do it yourself you need to scribe a line directly down the center. the easy way to do this is the lay a piece of angle iron down on it and scribe it. cut out what you need use a horizontal band saw if possible, the cut needs to be as close to square with the shaft as possible. then line the scribe line back up. then every thing will be in line. make sure you tack it in many places before welding it.

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joetaylor
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 640
posted March 28, 2004 07:11 AM  
IF YOUR GOING TO DO IT YOUR SELF THEN THE EASY WAY TO GET IT TIMMED IS TO LAY IT ON A FLAT SURFACE SO THAT THE FLAT FLANGE OF THE YOKE SITS ON THE FLOOR AND MAKE SURE THAT THE THE END THAT YOU ARE WELDING IS ALSO FLAT THIS WILL GET YOU AS CLOOSE AS YOU CAN GET WITH OUT A JIG
ALWAYS CUT THE PIG END SO IF FOR ANY REASON IT SHULD BREAK YOU WILL NOT POLEVALT THE CAR i HAVE DONE IT THAT WAY FOR 15 YEARS NEVER HAD ONE COME APPART

JUST A NOTE: ONCE YOU GET IT LINET TACK IT ROLE IS OVER 180* AND DOUBLE CHECK IT AGAIN AND TACK IT IN 4 PLACES BEFOR YOU WELD IT PERMENENT

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joetaylor
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 640
posted March 28, 2004 07:18 AM  
I FORGOT TO TELL YOU WHEN YOU CUT THE DRIVE SHAFT USE A PIPE CUTTER THIS WILL MAKE IT STRIGHT THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO DBURR THE IN SIDE OF THE TUBE AS i SAID BEFOR I'VE HAD NO PROBLEM
I HAVE DONE THIS FOR 5 OUTHER RACE TEAMS AS WILL NO ONE HAS BROUGHT BACK ANY THING BROKEN UNLESS IT GOT BENT OR SOMETHING BEYOND MY CONTROLL
I HAVE EVEN SENT DRIVE SHAFTS TO ARK TEN OH IND. EVERYONE HAS BEEN HAPPY

sideways
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 715
posted March 28, 2004 07:22 AM  
We use a cut off saw to do the length.As for set up we index it useing a level on the cap surface on the yokes.We also measure from yoke to yoke.Good points from all that have anwsered.Yes do tack the yoke and then measure it will move if ya dont.After 4 tack spots we re "index"and then weld 1" welds at a time.Weld turn 180 then weld again.

25JHenry
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 73
posted March 28, 2004 07:59 AM  
Pipe cutter is the way to go if you are doing it yourself. (Its like a large tubeing cutter) When you line the shaft back up to weld it you'll know its true then and not cut at an angle. Tack it in atleast four places before you weld it so it will stay straight. Our driveshaft has held up well.

bigcityracer
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 431
posted March 31, 2004 09:01 PM  
I have welded 4 driveshafts and I tried the chevy at the trans end and after cutting and grinding weld off, removing left over peace of shaft off the part with the U-joint. It would not go back on. I cut it square with a pipe cutter and file out the bur, but it will not go on. Any help is appreciated

joetaylor
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 640
posted March 31, 2004 09:07 PM  
If you puttoo much pressure on when you cut it it will squeeze it too much but the key is to cut the rear end end that way if the weld suld fail you will not polvalt the car that is not fun

your problem if you have a hand operated exhaust expander you might be able to expand ita little or a wedge for strighting out muffler necks will also work but important to not expand too much god luck

Flanndad
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 255
posted April 01, 2004 05:15 AM  
On the tail end of the driveshaft, we used a grinder to take off the existing weld that holds on the yoke.
Then use a hammer to slide it out of the shaft.
Then use a cut off saw, cut to lenght, slide end back into shaft.
Line up u-joints then tack weld, followed by a good weld all the way around.
I wouldn't try to cut it in the middle, to hard to get it square. Doing it this way, if it's not perfectly square it won't hurt you.
Because when you slide the yoke it, it will only go in until it makes contact.

Never had them balanced either....

[This message has been edited by Flanndad (edited April 01, 2004).]

racerguy500
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 168
posted April 01, 2004 07:36 AM  
If you have ground the old weld off to take the yoke out and cut your shaft to the length you need and it won't go in, you will need to grind the edges of the yokes slightly to allow it to slide in. You can do this on a chop saw but be careful to not grind too much, if it is loose it will be heck to get it to stay in place while you tack it. Good luck.

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