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Author Topic:   jacking wedge
Desert Mod
posted December 25, 2005 12:51 PM  
When setting the wedge in a car, I've always turned the weight jacks in opposite directions diagonally. That is, if I put in one turn in the RF, I've taken one out of the LR (assuming the thread is the same on all four corners.) I read somewhere recently that if you put in a turn on the RF, you should put in a turn on the LR. Which way is correct?

posted December 25, 2005 04:50 PM  
You are going in the right direction,the " right way " is doing all four rf out lf in lr and out rr.This gives you more crosswieght and keeps your ride heights the same,as long as all the threads are same kind.

posted December 26, 2005 08:16 AM  
if you put a turn in the rf it will add wedge to the car....think of it as a table and if you raise one leg on a table(turns in raises ride height) then it will add more weight to the opposite leg of that table.....
so turns in lf adds rr turns in rf adds lr

Desert Mod
posted December 26, 2005 08:04 PM  
Thanks, guys. So what you're saying is do the opposite turns diagonally, ie: one turn in RF, one turn out LR and one turn out LF, one turn in RR. Is that correct? Or is it one turn in RF, one turn in LR and one turn out LF, one turn out RR?

[This message has been edited by Desert Mod (edited December 28, 2005).]

Desert Mod
posted December 28, 2005 09:55 PM  
So what do you think? Do I have it right?

posted December 28, 2005 10:42 PM  

posted December 28, 2005 11:01 PM  
When you put a turn in a corner, it puts more weight on both that corner and its diagonal corner (RF and LR). So if you want to add wedge, you "could" put 3 turns in the RF and the new scale numbers would show more weight on the RF AND the LR, and less weight on both the LF and RR.

nmracer mentioned ride heights. To keep your ride heights as close as you can to where you start, you should turn in on RF and LR, then out LF and RR. Our car has more fine thread on the rear than the front, so if we want to add some wedge, we will put 1 turn in RF, 1 out LF, 2 in LR, 2 out RR.

You should set the ride heights where you want them. Get the rear percent where you want it, keeping the ride heights at the baseline. Then set the left side percent, keeping the baseline ride heights the same, and makeing sure you don't change the rear percent. Then do the above steps to get the right cross percent. Most of the time to get to the correct cross / bite, the ride heights won't end up at the baseline, but very close.

posted December 28, 2005 11:19 PM  
To tighten the chassis: raise the RF or LR corner...OR lower the LF or RR corner.

To loosen the chassis: raise the LF or RR corner...OR lower the RF or LR corner.

If you are making a major change, you could spread it out over two or four corners so that you do not dramatically change any one corner's height.

You want to tighten the car up a lot, so you decide to raise the RF 1/2" (4 turns on a bolt with 1/8" threads). Instead of making the whole 1/2" change at the RF and risk messing up your caster & camber settings, make a 1/8" (one turn) change at each corner.
Raise the RF one turn, Raise the LR one turn, Lower the LF one turn, Lower the RR one turn.

Keep in mind that when I say raise or lower I am referring to spring height. You would turn a wedge bolt clockwise to raise the spring height. If you ar adjusting spring heights on a coilover shock or spring slider (coil over eliminator) the adjusting nut needs to be turned in the correct direction, depending on whether the nut is above or below the spring.

posted April 01, 2006 08:23 AM  
Also keep in mind when john56h is refering to tightening and loosening, he is talking about when your on the gas, if your off the gas (corner entry) his tightening/loosening directions will be just the opposite. look for the happy medium (if there is such a thing). good luck.

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