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Author Topic:   Dirtworks 4Link question
112Moon
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 1
posted November 30, 2005 04:47 PM  
Last year was my first year in a modified. I have a DirtWorks DW8 that was 2-link. Since last year i cut all of the 2-Link Brackets off the frame and put 4-link brackets on. I was wondering what everyone would suggest as far as how should i set the rear of the car up as a 4-link/2-link, 4-link/Z-link, or a 4 and 4 setup and what everyone would suggest for bar angles and spring rates to start at. For the 4-link the bar links are 15 on bottom and 17 on top. I run at a semi banked 3/8 mile that always gets really slick. More and more guys are going to the 4 and 2 setup. Any advice is helpful. Thanks

Kromulous
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 822
posted December 01, 2005 08:28 AM  
If it gets that slick, i would run the 2 Link RR with about a 20" bar, spring behind, shock in front.

LR, long bar on the bottom, around 18". Top bar make it about 16". Rocket LM's run 18" & a 16.375" bars. Spring behind, shock in front.

225lb springs across the back, and 4 valve shocks to start.

Short bar, to the left of the pinion with about 4" of rake.

What rules do you use at your track? IMCA or UMP

Krom.

Chad
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 275
posted December 01, 2005 04:25 PM  
The standard DW8 4-link from DirtWorks comes with lower lengths at 12.5 inches and 14.5 inch uppers the same on both sides. My DW8 is a 4-link only car and this is what we have an run. Starting point for bar angles, both lowers level and uppers at 15-18 degrees. Since you added your mounts, I'm not sure giving you the holes we run will help much, but we run 3rd-4th hole up on both sides and middle hole on the bottom mounts. If the track is rough, the 4-link is not recommended on the RR, but if it's smooth and slick the 4-link will work very well. The car will be very sensitive to how the car enters the corner and must get over on the RF to get it to turn and work throughout the corner. Shocks can get a little complicated and do have a big effect on the overall handling of these cars. If you're interested, send me a private message and I can into some detail. If you're IMCA, run a j-bar, start at center of the pinion and 7.5" up on the frame side. Drop the pinion side one hole when it gets slick.

oldfordmod
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 53
posted December 02, 2005 07:49 AM  
Chad: Do you adjust the rear end back to its original position after lowering the panhard bar or just leave it moved to the left? Thanks

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 461
posted December 02, 2005 09:24 AM  
That will be something you will have to try you move the bar down to tighten the car to get it you have to be careful with the dw you will be to tight on entry and you will have to loosen the car up with the throttle and that itself will make you loose off

Chad
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 275
posted December 02, 2005 10:38 AM  
oldfordmod- we don't re-center the rearend when we move the j-bar. But, we should. Not resetting is based on time constraints. If we took the time in the shop, we could figure out how many turns it would take to re-center, but haven't done that. The car seems to drive fine leaving the rearend to the left, so we haven't wanted to mess with it.

rocket36
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 229
posted December 02, 2005 02:42 PM  
you should re-centre the rear end after any j-bar adjustment. even an 1/8" (side-to-side) makes a difference. this is why it is really worth getting or making a turnbuckle style j-bar, to make adjustments easy. we use a wehrs machine product but there are many differnt manufacturers of them.

our rocket late model doesn't have the provision for the long left bottom rod. the standard base setup lengths are LRT 18 1/4", LRB 15", RRT 18 3/4", RRB 15 1/2".
I have to admit i've never measured bar anlges but i would guess the range is TOP 15-25deg, BOTTOM -5deg to +5 on right side and -5deg to +15deg left side.

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