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Author Topic:   powerglide in a mod
chapa73
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 169
posted September 27, 2005 02:47 PM  
Okay,I know that a glide in a mod is wasting money,but I have about 3 glides,and the funds are not there to change over to a falcon, or brinn.

Is there anything I can do to make the bellhousing stronger,or take some load off of it.

Is there anything I can do to the planatery gears to make them stronger( I went threw about 3 of them in 1 year in my stocker in 03)

Also if I get alittle more aggressive with my set ups,will the glide hold up to some 'hicking' up?

Thanks in advance

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted September 27, 2005 03:21 PM  
You'll be money ahead to get a brinn...

I've got something that costs half as much and does the same thing. If your interested E-Mail me.
I ran Powerjunks for a year and won't run one again. I had many different people build them, had different drive shafts, gears, changed setup, and still broke something inside.

gould
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 730
posted September 27, 2005 03:23 PM  
My Bushore powerglide worked flawlessly all year. Changed fluid every 3 nights.

------------------
www.geocities.com/gouldracing11

FlyNLoIMCA17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted September 27, 2005 04:05 PM  
I ran glides for about 2 years before I finally gave up on them. Most of the ones I had were built by a local builder that was sponsoring my car. But I even went out and bought a TCI direct drive and it lasted 3 laps. I've never ran the Bushore's so I don't know about those. I would break them quicker when the car was "hiked" up. I also didn't and still don't have the money for a brinn or trans like that. I had a 3-speed Saginaw laying around and a guy I raced with had a brand new triple disk clutch for sale. So thats what I'm running now. It works pretty good. At first I didn't have the clutch adjusted right and was driving it on the trailer (stupid mistake) and it burnt the clutch up in 5 races. I fixed that problem and the only other problem I've ever had with this setup was that one night I was coming off the track and downshifted into 2nd and broke some teeth off 2nd gear. So I just tore it down and removed 2nd completely. I run on a tight budget so this setup works out for me.

BrianW
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 385
posted September 28, 2005 08:42 AM  
If you're breaking belhousings and trashing planataries you've got problems other than the trans...

Breaking the belhousing: are you sure you're not bottoming out the yoke? Are you sure you're not binding up u-joints? You can make a support that runs from the belhousing bolts, down to a piece of angle iron bolted to the tailshaft - I think someone actually sells one but it shouldn't be but a few minutes work with a welder....

Blowing the planataries - quit running in low gear! Seriously - they aren't ment to run in low at really high HP/RPM's. Most mod guys run a direct drive with the trans in high gear (1:1) - only use low gear to start off from a standstill.

As for clutches I had the same problem until I figured out it wasn't them it was me... You need to adjust your driving style as the clutches can not handle a lot of slipping (they weren't designed for it!) - so start off at a low of an RPM as you can and as quick as you can and don't 'ride' the clutch or allow it to slip any more than is required to get moving. Reverse is the same way - you want to be 'fully engaged' and not slipping the rear clutch pack. If I do it right I can bring the car up to about 1300 RPM and almost 'pop' the clutch to get moving and not stall.

If you run a converter you're just asking for problems without a huge tranny cooler! Without a converter - you can run a small cooler or I've seen some converted to run no cooler...

Kromulous
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 796
posted September 28, 2005 09:50 AM  
We had one rebuilt by Tucker in Indiana, and have had great luck. Had the tail shaft turned down to accept a 8" yoke, a stock one will only accept a 5" yoke.

We dont run a rear mount at all. Plus we change the fluid when we change the engine oil. So thats about every other race or so.

Just make sure the yoke dont bottom out, on our 8" yoke, you got about 6" of truly usable spline. I set it up so 2.5" was in at ride height, and its been good ever since.

leftturn73
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 199
posted September 28, 2005 11:27 AM  
I have been running a glide for years and never a problem. I really believe it is the people who make them and installation in the car. I run a special cradle built by Burt Brown racing trans. that attaches to the bell housing then back to the reaar of the trany. I run the direct drive and change the fluid every 3-4 races. NO problems. Please note I am not running any thing over say 550hp. My opinion two guys to buy from RTC and BBrown racing trans.

chapa73
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 169
posted September 28, 2005 12:00 PM  
In my stocker I ran low gear,In the mod I run 1:1.I also dont run a clutch pedal,We set our up to do everything internal,Low gear bleads off so I use low to get it rollin,once its rolling I put it in high gear,and reverse slips alittle,(holes are drilled in back of housing to relieve some reverse pressure)

I havnt blown up planatery in a mod yet,but was going threw them like hot cakes in the stocker a few years ago,didnt matter,built by me,or buchore they would blow up(except 1,it has over 50 nites of racing on it,its now in my wifes factory stock)

I am running a torque tube.

What do I have to actually have machined to accept the longer front yoke?

Thanks

[This message has been edited by chapa73 (edited September 28, 2005).]

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted September 28, 2005 12:35 PM  
What gets me is you guys who say you cant afford a brinn, yet you go thourgh a couple glides and all of a sudden you've spent more and have a lot less tranny. Keep your eyes open you can get a good used brinn for under a 1000$ and a Falcon less yet. there is even a guy here in KS that makes a direct drive muncie tranny for about 650$ i think. Same idea as a brinn just using stock parts.

Maybe in a stocker there is a place for a powrglide but as much rear suspension movement as there is today in the mods and the HP levels we push a glide really doesnt stand a chance. It may be alittle cheaper but will not hold up as long no matter what you do to it.

but thats just my opinion.....

Kromulous
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 796
posted September 28, 2005 01:02 PM  
The actual output shaft, that sticks out the tail cone. It needs to be machined down, turned, the O.D. down under the spline teeth.

Were running about 525-550 hp, so we dont have enough to really flex on a P-glide yet.
We got it when we got the car, and had it rebuilt once for $250, i wouldnt buy another on purpose, not that there that bad, but there is alot better.

I agree with Dirtbuster to a degree, just save more dollars and get the Falcon. Unless your like us and have lower HP and got one in on a deal, i would use one.


chapa73
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 169
posted September 28, 2005 01:09 PM  
Well for me,I can build a glide for about 60 bucks,When the day comes that im out of glides then I will be forced to get a brinn,I dont see dropping 700 in a glide,But Dad had about 15 or so hanging around and we been using them,So for me right now its cheaper,I can brake 3 of them and be out about 160 bucks.


dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted September 28, 2005 01:29 PM  
out 160$ and 3 race finishes.

If I were you Id build 2 or 3 glides and sell them to somebody else and youd get enough to buy a brinn or falcon setup. Then not worry about breaking them.

Alltel
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 180
posted September 28, 2005 02:01 PM  
I ran a glide for 5 years. I got a brinn this year and will never go back. Grab the input shaft on the glide and see how easy it turns the tailshaft, then try it on a brinn. I couldn't turn a glide by hand without using the coupler for leverage, but I can spin both shafts on the brinn with two fingers. Not only that, but when you let go it will continue to rotate. Not to mention that it is way lighter with the right parts and easier to install and take out.

But, if you must run a glide, you can run straps from the top bellhousing bolts(Where it bolts into the midplate) to the back of the tailhousing for support. The output shaft must also be milled down or splined further so that an 8" yoke can be used for the suspension travel that is run today. The best advice I can give though is to have plenty of spares ready and make it as easy as possible to get in and out of the car. I have a special lift that I built at my house for the sole purpose of removing the Powerglide from my car.

[This message has been edited by Alltel (edited September 28, 2005).]

chapa73
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 169
posted September 28, 2005 02:57 PM  
I see what your saying,I got about 8 races untill this one broke,the bellhousing broke,I figured it might have been just the possible flex in the chassis,and I fount the block mount motor mount on the right was broke.

Im still not competely out for trying to get a brinn/falcon,just trying to figure out what I could do to my current glides.

If the wifes car didnt need headers,back springs,body, ect it wouldnt be a problem.

Also, whe you guys run a brinn,falcon,bert what kind of bellhousing do you guys run.If I was able to save up the money,I prolly wouldnt have alot of money to use on the bellhousing,Do you normally run the bellhousing they sell that uses a reverse mount starter and what not,or do you buy those steel quartermaster bellhousing that kinds look like a stock one.

Also, I know it would prolly be shooting myself in the foot,But I think I have about 3 of the stock type bellhousing,would one of them hold up racign with a brinn?

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted September 28, 2005 03:15 PM  
Most people I know use the aluminum Brinn belhousing but I believe you can use any and all of the other bellhousings. Everything bolts up you just need a different coupler if you are using a stock mount starter and flexplate instead of the reverse mount setup. Using a stock bellhousing would prob be fine to start with, it might not hold up as long though as a true racing design, but you could always keep your eyes open for a steel or Brinn housing in the future.

Alltel
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 180
posted September 28, 2005 04:24 PM  
To be legal in our area, I bought a lakewood steel bellhousing. I have a friend that runs a stock chevy aluminum housing to save weight. I don't know where he got them though.

FlyNLoIMCA17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted September 28, 2005 05:25 PM  
I was running the stock chevy aluminum bellhousings when I first started using the Saginaw-mini clutch setup because I didn't have the money for a scattershield. I ended up finding a scattershield at a swap meet pretty cheap and now thats what I use. Never had trouble with the aluminum ones but if the clutch would have came apart it probably would have cut my legs off!!!

I think I still have 2 of the chevy alum. bellhousings if anyone needs them??

As for using them with a Bert/Brinn/Falcon I don't see any problem, plus you don't have a clutch under the bellhousing so you wouldn't have to worry about it exploding.

NJantz
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted September 29, 2005 06:11 AM  
I went through at least 7 powerglides in 3 years. Cracked cases and slipping were the culprits most of the time. I changed fluid frequently, ran a floating tailshaft mount, had extra long dowel pins, made sure the driveshaft was balanced, had the correct yoke length.....and still had problems. I even had a sponsor for these transmissions.

Powerglides might be cheap in the short run, but not in the long run. I've had a Falcon for 3 years now and its never broken yet. I've replaced the input shaft one time and that was my fault, other than that it hasn't had a darn thing done to it.

The powerglide was nice on caution laps and restarts.

But I'll never run one again. Just cost too much to keep together.

madnik18
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 40
posted September 29, 2005 11:39 AM  
the powerglides cost me around $800 in the last two years and is the reason why i have only had one race this year...they just cant hold up... save your timeand money and get a bert or falcon.. even if you have to set out a year like i am..

rrrrick
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 192
posted September 30, 2005 08:47 AM  
I have to agree w/ Alltel, I Spin the shaft of my burt with two fingers and I can push the car with one person. That has to be getting more HP to the wheels.
Also, not one transmission failure all year. The only maintaince I have done to the Burt trans is change the oil every week and had to replace the rear seal once. (driveshaft yoke knocked it out.)
Of course, I do miss those crazy low gear re-starts I could do with the P/G



psycho47
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 48
posted September 30, 2005 11:02 AM  
If you are going to a bert, brinn falcon etc., I would spend the money on the bellhousing with the reverse mount starter. You lose alot of rotating mass by going from the starter ring to the small mini-coupler. There is a Brinn tranny that has the starter mounted directly to the tranny to eliminate the starter ring completely. Eliminating rotating mass frees up lots of horsepower.

brownstone
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 284
posted October 04, 2005 08:04 AM  
We have run powerglide for years trouble free.
Yes we turned down the output shaft, this is a must. Also, getting a cradle from Burt Brown also a must.

However we have never had this trans in anything other than a 3 link or a leaf car.

If we went to a 4 bar then I would consider switching.

Sidebite252
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 98
posted October 07, 2005 11:46 AM  
For the money - the Brinn, Bert, or Falcon is the way to go. We still run the PG's in our old mod but old school mods's don't twist the chassis like the new 3 wheelin' buggies do. I do lighten the internal parts such as the reverse drive hub - I drill hole in this hub and machined about 2 lbs off of it. I also only run 3 reverse disc to eleminate some friction. About the only thing left to help a PG as far as reducing friction or rotating weight is to replace the front bushing with a roller bearing and/or use an aluminum drive disc drum. After pricing the aluminum drum I skipped that option. As far as problems - we have very few. It's just a fact I'm showing up to a gun fight with a sling shot as far as tranny's go. I'll switch someday but the old PG has been a good tranny for us. Good luck.

primal2
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted October 07, 2005 12:51 PM  
We're in the same boat Sidebite. 1 failure in about 50 shows or so.My glide has a shorty kit(free)which other than building odd driveshafts seems to be bulletproof. It is lightened inside as well. Two questions o you use low for restarts? What size is the hole in the reverse drive hub? We're using two frictions in the reverse but it seldom gets used. The slip joint assembly is a cross between a Jeep 4-bolt flange and a GM 4x4 slip joint/splined stub. This gives ample travel especially with the long slip joint.

CorndogTHIS
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted October 10, 2005 08:04 AM  
Hey primal2, That guy who built your driveshaft is a real craftsman eh? How many years did you race with that driveshaft?

primal2
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted October 10, 2005 10:47 PM  
Yeh,Corndog he's not bad. After about 5 packs of smokes and 5 hours of analitical discussion he can get the job done!LOL

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