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Author Topic:   Converting DW 8 Right side from a z-link to a 2 Link Questions
RACEFAN33
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 98
posted September 22, 2005 07:38 PM  
I have a DW 8 that was a 2 link and i had DW convert it over to a lr 4 link and 4link / z link rr. I never did like the 4 link on both sides. So I'm running the rr at a z-link. What would it take to run convert it back over to a 2 link option. My though was to level the birdgage and then weld to brack on the outside of the birdgage gages to lock them down. Also what wheel bases and spring combination needs to be ran with this set-up? RR spring in front or behind. When I ran it as a 2 link it was behind. Reason for asking when I set my wheelbase on 108 my 90/10 shock is all most bottomed out. Thanks for the help.

seabiscuit
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted September 23, 2005 08:19 AM  
you can weld 2 shock bushings to your birdcage and then weld 2 to your retaining collar on the inside so that you can run two bolts through them then tack the collar so it doesn't spin. Or take the birdcage off and put on a clamp on trailing arm bracket and tack it. Square the rearend and adjust your rear steer with the 4link side, you can also make small adjustments by leading or trailing the right side after you get it close. I have a 108" car and had to drill new holes lower and more towards the front of the torque link bracket for the shock and I run a bilstein because its a little longer, you can also buy an 8" travel small body bilstein 90/10 shock. Try the spring behind and start out with the dirtworks spring rates for what suspension your using on each side. Try running a long bar on the right without the plug. Ricky Stephan runs this type of setup and does pretty good with it

seabiscuit
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted September 23, 2005 08:20 AM  
you can weld 2 shock bushings to your birdcage and then weld 2 to your retaining collar on the inside so that you can run two bolts through them then tack the collar so it doesn't spin. Or take the birdcage off and put on a clamp on trailing arm bracket and tack it. Square the rearend and adjust your rear steer with the 4link side, you can also make small adjustments by leading or trailing the right side after you get it close. I have a 108" car and had to drill new holes lower and more towards the front of the torque link bracket for the shock and I run a bilstein because its a little longer, you can also buy an 8" travel small body bilstein 90/10 shock. Try the spring behind and start out with the dirtworks spring rates for what suspension your using on each side. Try running a long bar on the right without the plug. Ricky Stephan runs this type of setup and does pretty good with it

FlyNLoIMCA17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted September 23, 2005 04:32 PM  
I don't know what kind of birdcages you are running but you might check with that company about some lock-out brackets. I run the A-1 roller bearing cages and they sell a lock-out bracket for like $20. Thats what I use on my 4-2. Also put both rear springs behind the housing, The LR on the birdcage and the RR of course clamped to the housing. Start with your wheelbase and diff. square. I had a 90-10 that was topping out under accel. and I just removed it from the car, you might can do that. Start your springs around 200 straight across or 225 LR 200RR. If you need anything else just let me know!!

RACEFAN33
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 98
posted September 23, 2005 10:55 PM  
I've tried taking my 90/10 shock off and after each feature the spring in my pull bar is loose. I have a new afco pro style pull bar with a 1200 pound spring in it with 1/4 preload and I'm running it in the 3 hole up on pull bar mount. Any reason why this might be happening?

washeduptoo
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 155
posted September 23, 2005 11:37 PM  
We run the 4-2 with rr on c/o and lr on slider, we tacked a clamp bracket on housing welded a bushing on b/c and clamp bracket and ran a bolt thru both. 225 on lr,200 on rr. We use a quick car biscuit pull bar. If the track is tacky spring on top of the housing works good, but dry slick you need the spring behind. Flynlow got us going with this and has been a great help. We use a 90-10 shock on ours on a clamp bracket.

[This message has been edited by washeduptoo (edited September 23, 2005).]

FlyNLoIMCA17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted September 24, 2005 01:25 AM  
My pull-bar also loosens itself up. Only thing I can figure is that without the 90-10 the pull-bar is taking all the forces from braking and the extra vibration is loosening the nut on the spring. I also run an Afco bar. I think mine is the pro-style, not real sure thou. I use the progressive spring. Can you fab-up a new mount for the 90-10 to help it with the travel?? If so, then do that. My car was too tight going in and then on accel. the 90-10 was hyper-extending causing it to lose bite, so taking the 90-10 off helped my car a bunch, so far I haven't had any wheel hop or problems besides the pull-bar loosening. I just check mine after every race.

Hey washeduptoo, have ya'll been runnin' lately?? Ya'll be safe down there, it looks like 1 bad hurricane wasn't enough!! Does it look like its going to hit hard where you are??

washeduptoo
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 155
posted September 25, 2005 08:38 PM  
Hey flynlo, I don't know if LA. can take anymore Hurricanes. They have got people displaced everywhere, the churches are supplying most everything and people are really pulling together, but we've been out of electricity for a couple of days and just now got it back on. Alot of damage. We raced Friday night and ran heats for the championships(2nd) and then the rain came and the wind later on. We qualified for the championship feature, so I guess it was a good night. We put a straight panhard bar and the car and driver really liked it. I'll pm you later.

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