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Author Topic:   restubbing advice
rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted August 26, 2005 06:24 AM  
please help,
i bent the stub on the dw8 on tues night.
i have a stub and a i beam frame table but would appreciate any advice on setting it up correctly.
i also have a backup chassis thats a dw8 and thought about setting it on the jig and making some tooling off of it then restubbing the bent one. (but thats been stubbed once too)
i am concerned as to whether dw tilts the stub down in front to take out any dive or if its jigged shorter / longer on either side to get it in the corners better.
any info thats solid will help, no time to send her out. and dw doesnt answer my e mails.

e mail me at ron.paulick@hydrite.com if you dont want to post here.
thanks guys, always a wealth of information on here.

CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1172
posted August 26, 2005 07:42 AM  
I would measure the restubbed one and make sure its square. I am sure DW from the factory builds their car square. Find centerline on your fixture center and square the car up make some location tabs and fixtures. Again I canot stress having it taken to a good frame shop. It is amazing what can be saved by a good frame man. Might be able to get it pulled and not have to go thru the hassle of stubbing it.

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted August 26, 2005 07:51 AM  
Custom is right, Take it to a frame shop first. You'd be amazed at what I've seen done with bent race cars.

rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted August 26, 2005 07:51 AM  
we did have it pulled some but ,its been bent a few times already before i got it, i have a new stub so .......

this car will be my backup car for next season, if it handles well then maybe i wont stub it but i need to replace a few tubes at the bare minimum.

psycho47
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 48
posted August 26, 2005 09:03 AM  
How much does it usually cost to have one restubbed? I had the left front frame horn pushed over and it cracked right around the spring pocket. I pushed it back some with a porta power and welded it up but my measurements still put it off by an inch or so. I assume if you take it to a frame shop that they will just square it back up.

rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted August 26, 2005 09:06 AM  
dirtworks said 1500 - 1700 to restub and replace bad bars/
why do that when i have a stub , seems like a big waste of cash.
especially on my budget.......empty pockets racing should be our name. lol


quote:
Originally posted by psycho47:
How much does it usually cost to have one restubbed? I had the left front frame horn pushed over and it cracked right around the spring pocket. I pushed it back some with a porta power and welded it up but my measurements still put it off by an inch or so. I assume if you take it to a frame shop that they will just square it back up.


psycho47
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 48
posted August 26, 2005 09:22 AM  
It looks like a new frame is probably 2800 bucks now, (wasn't a new dirtworks frame $2300 last year) so you could save some money over buying new. I think i'll run mine the rest of the year and see what it does. Thanks for the info.

andykmod
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 351
posted August 26, 2005 09:59 AM  
Ron, who pulled it back? There is a place in Horicon called Vic's autobody They do a awsome job and have seen them bring back some pretty twisted cars and the cars still worked o.k. There's only a few weeks left in the season and stubing a car seems like a good winter project to me. Me and Donslink1 stubed a dw one time on the floor and the car worked fine, we later put it on the jig and it was off very little.

donslink1
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 318
posted August 26, 2005 10:23 AM  
DWs are pretty easy cars to restubb too if I remember right, Andykmod still has the jigger, LOL!!!

rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted August 26, 2005 11:31 AM  
andy or don , give me a call and maybe we can discuss this further. i have the i beam frame jig and the other chassis i got from chad rathke was stubbed defore , i was going to pull measurements off that and just do it. did you guys take anti dive out or do anything special.
my numbers are as follows. work 920-233-8181 ext36 home 920-685-6216 cell 920-420-0712 talk to ya soon. ron

rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted August 29, 2005 09:23 AM  
are ya there andy? don ????

dirtywrench13
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 324
posted August 29, 2005 12:03 PM  
I RESTUBBED OURS 4 YEARS AGO ON THE SHOP FLOOR, USING ONLY A LEVEL,A TAPE, AND 4 JACK STANDS.DIDNT SEEM TOO HARD TO ME?

CLBaker25
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 193
posted August 29, 2005 12:58 PM  
Aren't most chassis makers turning their front stubs on the modifieds right now?

Kromulous
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 796
posted August 29, 2005 01:07 PM  
I hear Pierce leads thier RF about 3/4" but i think most others are square.

Krom.

msnead
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 77
posted September 04, 2005 10:05 PM  
I asked DirtWorks a few months back about the measurements to get the frame straight on our DW9. Here is what I found out:

For the '68-'72 Chevelle clip, they said anywhere from 0 to 3/8" longer on the right is acceptable. The key, from what I'm told, is to measure everything off of the 2" X 3" rectangular tubing in the rear--since that is the first piece they lay on the jig. Every other bar is installed/measured off of those tubes.

When we had our bad wreck, it appeared that the right front was off 3/4". Since we were new, needed the seat time and didn't have a lot of time to get the car ready for the next race, we ended up racing it like that and the car still handled fine.

I'm thinking about having it re-stubbed in the off-season. Let me know how much trouble you guys have...

m

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