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Author Topic:   BAR LENGTH
JONESRACER7
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted July 06, 2005 09:40 PM  
JUST LOOKING FOR SOME ADVICE ON BAR LENGTHS. RUNNUNG A LIMITED MOD CLASS HAS TO BE TWO LINK. RIGHT NOW WE HAVE 20 INCH TOTAL LENGTH CENTER TO CENTER RUNNUNG A J-BAR SLIDER ON LEFT IN FRONT WITH SPRING ON TOP OF RIGHT SIDE ALSO RUNNING LIFT ARM INSTEAD OF PULL BAR. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT

FlyNLoIMCA17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted July 06, 2005 09:51 PM  
well I guess part of that depends on your wheelbase. Measure it and make sure it meets your rules minimum length requirement. If not you will need to lengthen the bars, if so....you can begin to experiment with lengths. First off always try to keep the diff. squared with the car to start with. Use bar lengths to change the handling to your liking. A shorter bar will react quicker. Longer reacts slower. You can run the 20" bar on the RR and maybe try a 15" (or even shorter) on the LR. You will have to build a plug bracket that bolts to your existing lower bar mounts on the chassis and extends out towards the diff with holes drilled in it to mount the bar to. The shorter bar on the LR will help the car "get on the bars" quicker.

But before you do that you need to think about what you want the car to do?? Whats it doing now that you don't like?? In my experience if your looking for better bite off the corners....I'd trash that lift arm and go for a pull-bar. But thats only my OPINION. Some people like the lift-arm better but I just never could get them to bite like a pull-bar. Hope that helps you some.

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http://www.freewebs.com/flynloracing17

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted July 07, 2005 09:41 AM  
Andy,
What kind of chassis is that that you are running? Anyways, I'd stick with your trailing arms as they are now and learn the car. You can make any length bar work, it just takes different things. It appears to me that your being out motored right now also, I watched your hotlaps last week and the motor sounded sick compared to everyone elses. Keep tuning the chassis until you are comfortable in the car, then start shortening up bars and adding more angle, a car that is hiked up in the air on three wheel's isn't fun to drive nor is it fast and I proove that.

Brett Ladehoff B-Mod 12

JONESRACER7
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted July 07, 2005 07:07 PM  
YOUR RIGHT IT DID SOUND SICK THATS WHY I PULLED IN EARLY IT HAD A BAD MIS WE STILL DIDNT HAVE IT FIGURED OUT FOR THE FEATURE BUT TONIGHT I FOUND THE SCREWS HOLDING THE COIL IN WERE STRIPED OUT AND THE SCREW HOLDING THE GROUND ON WAS COMPLETLY LOOSE BUT NOW THAT THE LEAST OF OUR WORRIES WE HITE THE WALL IN THE FEATURE AND BROKE THE REAR END AND BENT EVERYTHING IN THE BACK, THATS WHY I WAS ASKING ABOUT BAR LENGHTS BECAUSE IT RIPPED THE RIGHT SIDE TUBE WERE THE BARS MOUNT SO I AM GOING TO HAVE TO REPLACE IT AND I WAS THINKING ABOUT MOVING THEM BOTH BACK 4 INCHS.I WOULD LIKE TO TRY A SHORT BAR ON THE LEFT BUT THAT WILL BE LATER AFTER I FIGURE THINGS OUT A LITTLE MORE. ON THE PULL BAR DOES IT HAVE TO BE MOUNTED DRICTLY OVER THE DRIVE SHAFT OR CAN IT BE TO THE RIGHT 3-4 INCHS? HOW IT SETUP RIGHT NOW I WOULD HAVE TO CHANGE ALOT OF THINGS TO MAKE A MOUNT ON TOP OF THE DRIVE SHAFT, BUT SO FAR I SEEM TO HAVE GOOD FORWARD BITE AND SIDE BITE SO I MAY TRY THE LIFT ARM ALITTLE LONGER AND SEE HOW IT WORKS. THANKS FOR THE INPUT.

[This message has been edited by JONESRACER7 (edited July 07, 2005).]

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted July 08, 2005 10:22 AM  
I'd try to put a pullbar on the car with an overall lenght of around 40 inches heim to heim, and give yourself room to adjust the pull bar to the left or right of the driveshaft. The further to the left you get it, the more it will load the LR tire when you get on the gas.

Shortening them 4 inches wouldn't hurt, but you'd be better off buying some new brackets and welding them on where they are now, just 3 inches apart inside to inside so that you can bolt "plugs" in there so you can play with bar lengths. Another thing you can try is putting a J bar on the car if you have the mount. You need to get over to Fort Dodge and run the car, Webster is a **** hole to say the least, and you won't learn to drive the car racing there. Al keeps the track decent but week to week it changes so much and you are chasing holes all the time. What stub is this car on that you have? If your interested at the end of the year I'll be selling mine race ready with a 5.7 rod motor fresh, all new body of your choice in color, completely scaled and set up with 5.43 gear ready to run, powerglide tranny, fastshafts driveshaft and new HEI Iginition, Dynatech Headers... NO seat though for $6500.


CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1172
posted July 08, 2005 03:30 PM  
if your gonna sell the KRAFT CAR WHAT YOU GONNA RACE NEXT YEAR? Cant run more than one year on a chassis before you switch brands?

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted July 09, 2005 03:02 AM  
Hey, at least my car is on the track... I'll probably keep the Kraft and re-build it at the end of the year, and start putting a new GRT or Stealth together. The Kraft is working pretty good right now, finally got it dialed in.

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