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Author Topic:   Ride height's
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 402
posted July 06, 2005 08:05 AM  
What goes into choosing ride heights? What would happen if your heights were off by more than a little? How much variance is allowed? Are correct ride height's more important then weight distribution? Then why set ride height's first before scaling?

I'm trying to get a conversation going here.

Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 77
posted July 06, 2005 08:36 AM  
I'm far from an expert in the setup area... as a matter of fact, I'm a newbie to modifieds.

From my reading, I do know that most chassis builders recommend a starting ride height. Once you have this correct, you can turn your jacking bolts even amounts to change your percentages without effecting your ride heights very much.

In the case of the DW cars, they have a starting ride height for IMCA tires and a different (higher) height for the UMP (Hoosier) tires...Is this because the ride height effects side bite and Hoosiers have better side bite than the American Racers???

I'd be interested in knowing more about this subject--particularly, what effect does 1/4" +/- of ride height on a particular corner do to the handling of the car?


Dirt Freak

Total posts: 209
posted July 06, 2005 08:38 AM  
ride height directly affects suspension & steering geometry as well as centre-of-gravity height.
you can maintain your set ride height while setting wedge on scales, by adjusting all 4 corners.
i think most people know by now that left side and rear percentages are not affected by changing ride heights.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 796
posted July 06, 2005 10:01 AM  
I've been working with ride heights for awhile now. I found that the higher the better on slick tracks, my frame rail is 10+ inches above the ground on a slick track, makes killer sidebite. Tacky tracks lower the better, gets rid of sidebite.

Also i tend to look at how the chassis is raked fwd to aft, if the front end is lower then the rear, it tends to be more aggressive. Usually i run the front a tick lower than the rear, to keep the car responsive.

Down side is that its he!! on the driveline, and your suspension link angles change alot. If your running a 7" ride height and have aggressive bar angles, then switch to 10" ride height, your bar angles go to the conservative side.

I think the mfg's outline a base set up, but i dont think they intended it to be set in stone. I highly reccomend raising the car 1" all the way around, and re-setting the bar angle and pull bar angle and try it, you may find alot of sidebite and general better handling on a slick track, and the other way if on a tacky track.

Basicly its worth a shot, you'll never beat the fast guys running the same thing over and over.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 402
posted July 06, 2005 10:37 AM  
How does a manufacturer decide on height's?
Do they base them on trial and error or do they simply build a chassis the same way and call it good? We know chassis height's affect CG and side bite but what if we lowered the ride hieght and raised the CG with lead ballast? Do we still get the same amount of side bite/roll?

I think to much, lol

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 190
posted July 06, 2005 07:16 PM  
a chassis builder designs his suspension geometry around a given ride height. if you move too far from the recomended ride heights you will be effecting camber gain, bump steer, ackerman etc. on the front, and bar angles etc. on the rear. which will all need to be checked and possibly corrected at the new ride height.
the difference in ride height settings fom the american racer to the hoosier is because the hoosier has a larger rollout. the larger tire will raise the chassis.

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