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Author Topic:   chassis jig
rockit
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 125
posted May 08, 2005 01:21 PM  
need info on how to build a chassis jig .like what to use to build with .also need some dim for jig .or pic.just anything that will help thanks

wfoondirt
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 505
posted May 09, 2005 07:43 AM  
I simply made a frame out of 8" I-beam and then used a sheet of 1/4" steel for the top. It is approx 4'x10'. A flat and level surface is all you really need.

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted May 09, 2005 08:12 AM  
The most vestile one i have seen is made by irvan smith, its called a uni-jig. look them up on a search engine, they are very pricy but seem fairly simple to build a similar design. I would use an i beam because it will be more resistant to bending. it looks very easy to adjust for different cars.

rockit
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 125
posted May 11, 2005 09:19 PM  
ttt

boas51
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 190
posted May 12, 2005 07:01 AM  
the uni jig is an awsome design.
but expensive, or time consuming to build.
i built mine out of 3" x 6" x .188 wall rectangular tube, because i had some. anything heavy will work, 6-12" i beam, 2x4-3x6 rect, 6-12" channel, whatever you can find cheap at a s**** metal dealer.
i used the 3x6 for the outside rails, and channel iron for crossmembers. anything from 1x2" rect to 1/2" box to 1" angle for building locating brackets.
make sure it is square and level, and it makes it easy to locate parts on the chassis.

de94wcc
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 87
posted May 12, 2005 05:34 PM  
http://www.ssapubl.com/index.cfm?do=list&categoryid=13

snowman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 241
posted May 20, 2005 10:48 PM  
First, you should consider your own criteria, what you will be building, space availible,etc......

I built a jig for a company using 5inch c-channel.....commonly used for building trailers. The jig was 14 ft long, 4ft wide. It was to be used for mods and lates....they wanted a jig strong enough, but yet light enough to be moved out of the way when not in use......Cost was a major concern as well......

I turned the flat side of the c-channel inboard.....so that all of the cross pieces could be cut square....major time saver and makes the jig much easier to build.....

Should you use c-channel, check the pieces carefully before you load them......some of them arrive bent......

All in all, it made a very nice jig and could be carried by 4 guys.......well, 3 guys, me on one end and two on the other..... But I'm a big guy, 6'1" 250. Mostly made of spring steel and rawhide......or is that snaps and snails and puppy dog tails?? I always get that part confused.......lol

For my own jig, I used 4in. heavy wall "wide flange" I beam. 16 ft long, 4 ft wide....
Now, most of my work is lates. 4 ft wide works well..... If you are mostly going to be working on mods and stock framed cars, you might want to consider going 5 ft wide.......

I have some "L" shaped brackets I bolt on the side of my jig for building mods......The right stock frame rail sits on these brackets.......This way, I don't have to lean over an extra foot of jig all the time while building lates......Works well.

The I beam jig is harder to build, but easier to keep straight and square.....The wide flanges are better for clamping and bolting fixtures.....as the bottoms are flat (vs the angled ones of c-channel)

As far as the measurements on the cross pieces......Drop me a PM if you want my numbers, but I don't know how much they will help for your projects....... Just consider everything you need to catch.....frame rails, crossmember,engine/midplate jig, x-brace, hoop jig, suspension jigs, rear rails,etc........

You need provisions to catch everything, but also want to minimize so that less is in your way for welding of the chassis.

A few things to consider......if you are going to be building mods, the stock crossmember will be lower than your jig surface.......Make the legs adjustable to level the jig.....a 3/4 inch nut welded to the bottom of the legs and a 3/4 bolt works well......and build it upside down....so you only have to turn it over once......

Good luck,
snowman

boas51
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 190
posted May 21, 2005 02:22 PM  
forgot to mention
when i built mine i put heavy duty, wide casters under it, can be moved by 4 men, or one very small man. i am 5"9", 160 lbs.
if you are not making a permanent, stationary jig, no matter what it is built out of, make sure you check square and level every time you use it, or at least every time it is moved.

widebody
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 296
posted May 23, 2005 02:17 PM  

Heres mine.
Heres mine http://www.hi-lineperformance.com/frame-jig/index.htm

Its 5' wide, was made from an old drive on alignment machine.. Big caster wheel bolt on the bottom, when It doesnt have a project on it. Ive wired outlets on both sides, so when im working I can plug grinder or other stuff into the jig. Need to add air line next.

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