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Author Topic:   Rotor rubs bottom a-arm
xhubby
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 376
posted February 19, 2005 03:17 PM  
We are running pinto spindles & granada rotors on our 02 DW-8. The rotors are rubbing the end of the bottom a-arms. Has anybody else run into this problem, & if so how do you fix it? Do you grind the a-arm, or use a spacer on the spindle, or what?
Thanks

Istock66
unregistered Total posts: 376
posted February 19, 2005 03:43 PM           send a private message to xhubby   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/QuoteBBBBBB
grind

Wildside17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 119
posted February 19, 2005 03:48 PM  
Just take a ball peen hammer and beat the lip around the end of the a-arm in against the arm. Far enough around so you have the clearance when you turn. If you take metal off you may be compromising some strength.

andykmod
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 351
posted February 19, 2005 06:14 PM  
just grind off where it rubs thats what we had to do and never had any problems

bluto
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 10
posted February 19, 2005 11:21 PM  
A cleaner way to do it is to put the rotor in a lathe and take a beveled cut on the back side of the rotor. That's what we did. It isn't enough to affect braking performance.

Dman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 270
posted February 20, 2005 09:49 AM  
If you are running IMCA it is illegal to grind the a-frame for clearance as this is considered "modifying the a-frame".It's a little crude but bending it back with the hammer is legal and won't compromise the a-frame's strength too much. I really like the bevelling idea for the rotor as long as it doesn't compromise the rotor thickness rule.

Desert Mod
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 60
posted February 20, 2005 05:22 PM  
I've ground mine after beating them with a hammer. I use a weld-in lower ball joint and even if I put it out as far out as possible, it still rubs. I've been grinding some. No matter what you do, make sure it doesn't hit when the rotor goes lock to lock.

mod_racer98g
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted February 20, 2005 09:26 PM  
There are a few fixes for this !! cheapest is to grind and beat it in !!! 2nd is to take a cut off the inside !!! 3rd is i think diamond wheels has rotors that will clear without doing anyting to the lowers !!! Just make sure your front end is set up cuz this will make a difference on how much you have to grind !!!

dirtywrench13
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 324
posted February 21, 2005 11:50 AM  
I USUALLY MARK WHAT NEEDS TO GO AWAY, THEN TAKE THE ROTOR TO WORK AND CUT AWAY JUST ENOUGH TO "CLEARANCE" THE ROTOR AND SPINDLE. OTHERWISE WE JUST BEAT THE LIP AROUND ON THE A-FRAME.

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted February 21, 2005 11:56 AM  
I would avoid cutting them if you can. It will weaken them and they are more likely to bend just inboard of the ball joint. Our dont rub at ride height but when the car is jacked up and the front suspension hangs they do rub a little.

Gm metric rotors as well as the Diamond ones should clear without any problems.

OKC9
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 52
posted February 22, 2005 07:28 AM  
The only time we have seen this on DW8 and DW9 is when the lower ball joint gets bent. You might double check your ball joint and your wheel bearings for wear. There isn't much clearance there.

dirtywrench13
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 324
posted February 22, 2005 10:35 AM  
MOST NEW ROTORS FIT WELL ENOUGH THAT THEY DONT NEED CLEARANCED, WE ONLY USE "GOOD" STUFF FROM A LOCAL SALVAGE YARD, AS FAR AS FACTORY REPLACEMENTS ARE CONCERNED. THEY ARE EASIER TO PASS OFF AS IMCA LEGAL-STOCK- PARTS.

xhubby
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 376
posted February 23, 2005 04:36 AM  
We got the rotors new from US Brake. One of the spindles we bought (used) had a spacer on it that was about 1/8" thick. This seems like it would work. Has anybody tried that route?

rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted February 27, 2005 04:16 PM  
we use a 1/8" spacer shim on the spindle, works great, the other thing is to take 100 thousanths off the rear of the rotor at midas, it costs 13.00 / rotor and works good too, we have also done the beating in thing but if your using longer lower ball joints to correct your front roll center as we do on a dw8 we run , then the brake shop deal works best.

xhubby
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 376
posted February 27, 2005 05:47 PM  
I talked to Andy at DirtWorks, & he said that they just bend in the outer lip on the bottom a-arms. I am thinking about getting the inside of the rotors turned down some though. Thanks guys for all of the replies.

rpm20, we have the k-5103 lower balljoints in. Are those the ones you are talking about?

rpm20
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 338
posted February 28, 2005 09:42 AM  
the k5103 is the one they recommend but in order to raise the roll center on the dw8 (which was way off) we run the k7025 which is 1/2" longer
then we weld it in wiith stitches.
when we ran the k5103 then we beat the end over and cut away the lip on the rotor to clear the arm.


quote:
Originally posted by xhubby:
I talked to Andy at DirtWorks, & he said that they just bend in the outer lip on the bottom a-arms. I am thinking about getting the inside of the rotors turned down some though. Thanks guys for all of the replies.

rpm20, we have the k-5103 lower balljoints in. Are those the ones you are talking about?


[This message has been edited by rpm20 (edited February 28, 2005).]

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