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Author Topic:   Geometry Anybody?
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 9
posted January 24, 2005 05:26 PM  
The mod I bought is a 4-bar/z-link Pierce rear suspension copy. The rear supension works very well. Unfortunately, stock metric front control arm mounts are what it came with. Since this has to be the most analyzed/optimized front suspension, I'm wondering if I could draw on your guys' wisdom and experience to save myself some time, money and frustration.-------1) How truly bad is the geometry in this configuration?--I use stock lower ball joints and screw in uppers. 2) Is there a prescription to optimize it without moving the mounts?--i.e. adjustable ball joints, etc., if so which ones. 3) Or, do I need to start over and pay a professional chassis builder to re-design the front suspension?-------Any other thoughts would be appreciated as well. Thank you all very much for the help!

Jesus said--"I have come that they might have life and have it to the full." --->Live life FULL THROTTLE!!!

Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted January 24, 2005 09:48 PM  
try this website, they have adjustable uppers.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted January 25, 2005 04:33 PM  
If you are running pinto spindles then you and I are in the same boat and YES the geometry is TERRIBLE!! Heres what I had to do. Install the 3/8" longer lower ball joints (Moog # K 6117) Install adjustable upper ball joints. You can get them at they are $58.05 each. With the adjustable upper joints, move them 1" above where your normal ball joint were. Then I relocated the inner mounts on the control arms. I moved them down 1" and 1" towards the centerline of the car on BOTH sides. This will get you a pretty good starting spot, but it may not be exact because each car is different and ride height makes a difference. I use the ride heights that you can find in the mod setup sheet at

Hope that helps you!


Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted January 25, 2005 04:37 PM  
Oh also your hub distance matters. I use granada rotors and wheel adaptors that are 1" thick. If you measure from the pivot point of the upper ball joint to the wheel MOUNTING face that gives you the hub distance. Mine is 7.125" if your is the same, then we are pretty close and this!

Have fun with this, it looks like a pain at first, but its actually easier than you think and its worth it.

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