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Author Topic:   2-link swingarm help
WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 18, 2004 06:59 AM  
Ok guys needing some help here i am thinking about trying a 2-link swingarm with the springs on the arms with the birdcages lock this is on hoosier tires dw 8 112 wheelbase car were do you start on spring rates lr bite pullbar rate rearend squared bar angles in degrees. I have been thinking about running the shock and spring together on this set-up and i have also thinking about running the lr bar shorter than the right rear bar and also when the track gets slick do you take the right rear spring off the swingarm and move it behind or just leave it alone It just seems to me the car could get loose off the corner the the spring on the swingarm but i know the angle will affect this just needing some help here thanks

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 18, 2004 06:27 PM  
Anybody run this needing help here

155fan
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 163
posted December 19, 2004 07:35 AM  
I talked to Gary Clark and he said that when it got slick that he put the spring on top with the american racers because he had more clearance and spring behind with hoosiers but that he preferred spring on top if not for clearance problems he had on that car I looked at . I think rt.rr. on top for the slick too .

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 19, 2004 12:18 PM  
Thanks for the reply 155fan i have run the the spring on top with a z-link but i have also found there is not much room to play with when you have to go to a 200pd spring under that you may be able to get it too work the frame rail is almost too low i mount the spring on the inside the rail and on the outside of the rail but i run birdcages locked out if you use just a 2-link bracket you could make it work beacause of room on top do you know what spring rates to start at thanks

155fan
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 163
posted December 19, 2004 01:30 PM  
He told me like a 225 lt.rr. and like a 175-200 on the rt. and I should have read your whole post because I thought you were using just the front swingarm (15" c to c of heim) as the link clamped with no rear bar . I got stuck on the 2link swingarm title . I like the 225 lt. and 175 rt . on the slick with rt.rr. on top and then I like the 225 rt. with 200 lt. on the tacky with about 150lbs. lt.rr. bite full of fuel with me in the car and front wheel weights even . This is on hoosiers A's and D's . I usually have about 2-3" stagger on the tacky and then 0-1" 0n the slick dependin on the track .

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 19, 2004 05:16 PM  
155FAN this is what i am going to run for 2005 season swingarm clamped like a 2-link i was just explaining what i was running this year 2004 with with the spring on top of the rear end with the z-link deal i talk to Andy at dw he told me to run a 250 or 275 on the left rear swingarm and 225 on the rightrear swingarm this is with NO rear bar.I have not run the clamped swingarm before. thanks for your replys

155fan
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 163
posted December 19, 2004 06:03 PM  
Hey , I forgot to tell ya that these springs were with straight bars on my car and that he said when he put the spring on the swing lt. side ....that he picked up a tenth or 2 but I never did it yet . I think he only ran the spring on the arm rt. side only when it was heavy . When I saw him at Florence , Ky. ....he had him a SB2 motor in that sucker on the slick .

bachshute
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted December 19, 2004 06:43 PM  
WPP
are you going to clamp the swing arms on both sides , or just the LR .

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 19, 2004 07:15 PM  
So he ran swingarm clamp on the left rear with the spring on the arm and the right rear spring on the arm on tacky then in the slick he went on top right Bachshute i was thinking about running both sides clamped with swingarms but i figured when the track did go slick that the right could make the car loose off the corner were you might have to go to the spring behind on the right rear or on top of the rearend i never have run this set-up thanks guys

bachshute
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted December 19, 2004 07:45 PM  
Just a suggestion - clamp the LR and take off the rear bar

run the RR full swingarm ( spring on the arm ) --- if the track goes dry slick move the spring to the top of housing on RR and leave the swingarm in tact not clamped .

hope this helps some

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 20, 2004 04:09 AM  
Should i use the swingarm on the left rear with the spring on the swingarm or just use a straight bar with clamp bracket Do you mind explaining why you would just run the swingarm on the rr floated and also how about the bar lenghths short left and long rr lower bars will that work

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 20, 2004 04:35 AM  
Also forgot to mention what pullbar spring would you run with the lr clamped and the right rear floated but would it be better to have the rr locked on tacky and then just unlock it on the slick on the rr thanks for the help

Larry Lundin
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 45
posted December 20, 2004 10:19 AM  
For what its worth I ran a 15" swing arm GRT at Vegas configured with the left rear locked, 275lbs. spring mounted on the swing arm. I ran the rightbrear un-locked with a 300lbs spring. 800lbs AFCO pull bar and gobs of cross weight (58%) > we were told that we had too much cross in the car and reluctantly took it down to 51%. BIG MISTAKE!! car was extremely loose. It seemed to work much better with the high % of croos while in this configuration. I have since locked both birdcages and put a 150lbs. spring on top of the RR. I also moved the left rear spring off of the swing arm and placed it to the rear of the housing and dropped it down in rate to 200LBs. Going to Casa Grande with this set-up next month. Eager to see how it works . Casa Grande is similar to Vegas and drys out very fast.

155fan
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 163
posted December 20, 2004 04:11 PM  
Hey WPP , yep .... that's how it was and I tell ya bachshute's deal is pretty good from all i've heard . I think Gary said he had like a 400-1000 progressive spring on the pullbar . Yep yep .....I think bachshute's deal will be killer the more i'm thinkin about it right now .

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 20, 2004 07:00 PM  
Ok guys thanks for the replys but should i run a short swingarm on the lr and a long one on the rr with my plugs the lowers bars will be around 12.5 and without the plug they will be about 20 3/4 also how much angle in degree should i run again thanks for the help and how much bite in the lr clamp with the swingarm thanks

bachshute
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted December 20, 2004 07:01 PM  
wpp
i think keeping the rr floated will free up the car , mainly on entry but will help all the way thru .
i think the swingarm bar with the spring on the bar for the LR.
start with bars same length , haven't tried shorter bar on lr yet.
pullbar is more of a preference i think , i like the long pull bar with the rubber bushings
i have never tried the RR locked so i cant comment on that --- hope this helps

fastow
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 168
posted December 20, 2004 10:18 PM  
A few years back we had a car setup just like you guys are talking left locked right full swing arm it had the longer arms I think 19 inchs. This car was allways pretty good on different tracks. We never tried that deal moving the spring on the right rear . On a later car that had shorter links like 17 inch and it never really done as good.

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 21, 2004 04:28 AM  
Bachshute would you spring the car the same on the rr with the clamped or would you run more spring when it is floated and what springs and angle lr clamped and rr floated swingarm. When i do this i will probably have both sides clamped and both on the swingarm then i will unlock the birdcage on the rr and add the rear bar do you think i will be able to run the same spring rate or i will have to stiffen the spring while floating. I will start on the short lower bars i think around 12.5 on the dw and i might try to fix the right rear when i add the rear bar were i can put the spring on top of the rearend but with the dw you just can not go on top of the rearend because the right frame rail is low but i have been trying to figure a way to fix it were the right rear spring will work right thanks for your help

boas51
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 190
posted December 21, 2004 06:05 AM  
can you use an 11" spring on top?

the king
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 46
posted December 21, 2004 06:49 AM  
I'm not sure about spring rate on the RR when it is clamped , i have never clamped the RR . the king"s post looks real good on spring rates .
When i clamp or unclamp the LR i run a 350 spring on the arm .
off hand i am not sure of the angle i run on the arms , i can tell you that i kept them in the 3rd hole up , i have the angle wrote down and will get them for ya when i get back to the shop.

bachshute
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 118
posted December 21, 2004 01:58 PM  
the king :

can you let us know how you do at Volusia ? you have described my car to a -T- except for the RR being clamped , and slight difference in spring rates .
would love to know how you do against that kind of competition . Thanks

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted December 21, 2004 02:41 PM  
I just would like to thank every one for all the help and info you guys gave me boas51 i might could get a 11in spring to work i just know last year i did not have the spring right the spring was twisted and probably coil bind the bottom of the spring was going to the center more than the top at static it was straight up King i was thinking about starting with a 750rf 650 lf but this is with a chevelle front clip with the wide combo you should be able to go close to the same rates you are running nova lowers right agin guys thanks for the help

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted January 01, 2005 11:40 AM  
WPP your going to want to run both sides short, the right side with the spring on top of the housing, no birdcages or anything, just use the standard clamp on 2 link mounts that dirtworks sells, and then run your left side with the spring on the arm, both bars in the middle holes, run about 30 pounds of right rear bite, with a shorty panhard bar 7" up on the 2x2 square tube, everyone needs to learn the differences in suspention terms... swingarms are an arm the spring is mounted to, a z link is where the spring is either mounted to the swingarm, with a rearward bar or the springs on the housing, or on the birdcages... now he said swingarm 2 link.. how hard is that to understand?

[This message has been edited by Xtreme12x (edited January 02, 2005).]

gould
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 730
posted January 01, 2005 11:51 AM  
wow,you sure know alot about modifieds, how did you learn so much in one year in a b-mod?

------------------
www.geocities.com/gouldracing11

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted January 01, 2005 11:58 AM  
Wow, I've been around racing since I was born and have wrenched on them since the age of 12... I've had a lot of good teachers. How many wins do you have again racing or wrenchin?

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