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Author Topic:   B-Mods
Wildside17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 119
posted December 17, 2004 09:58 PM  
How long should a driver stay in Bmods before moving to amods?

[This message has been edited by Wildside17 (edited December 17, 2004).]

sleepy 1h
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 63
posted December 18, 2004 01:28 AM  
What the heck is a B Mod??? I race UMP, and around here they're full blown Mods, almost Latemodels. sleepy

Wildside17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 119
posted December 18, 2004 08:29 AM  
Limited Mod, 2bbl, 9-1 comp, two link rear susp.

pbrcowboy2
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 380
posted December 18, 2004 09:18 AM  
hey wildside its Buddy Ray at Blackbird Bend Speedway the b-mods can run any rear suspension they want!!!

But at most tracks that run b-mods you have to run either leaf or 2 bar setup

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted December 18, 2004 12:28 PM  
i asked a b-mod champ how much it cost to convert to the a-mod with motor cost among the most obvious it ran him 13,000.00 to update everything on his car to be competitive in the a-mod but he also was in the rookie of year standings in the a-mod nationally i believe

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted December 18, 2004 03:34 PM  
as far as b mod vs. a mod. here is my take i ran a few b mod races before i got into a mods. they were fun and low level of competition compared to a mods. i found it to be a great learning tool, learned how to drive a lower hp car, learned how to set the car up(basic stuff). here are the problems that i have found with the b mods almost everywhere. many of the guys spend about as much on a b mod as you need in an a mod anyways. drivers develop bad driving habits when sticking in them for a long time.
i hear people talk about spending 12,000 on a car to go from b mods to a mods. wow i spent 600 bucks on a carb to make the jump. this is points out how most people overspend on thier cars in either class really. an a mod does cost a little more to run then a b mod if you are running both wisely in the money dep. most people over spend on both. you dont need to have the biggest motor out there, 90% of the mods have more motor then they can ever hook up anyways.
so to answer your question i feel that you should stick in a b mod till you have the fundimentals, meaning the basic set ups, and driving. and once you have enough money to go to a mods, say take what you spend now on your b mod(just going off a guess for what an average b mod guy has in his car) and add 1500 a year to it. chances are you will have a mid pack car and with some brain power can be up front easy.
and you will make back your 1500 easily.
whichever you stick with good luck to you.



racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted December 18, 2004 09:05 PM  
we run unsanctioned no claim and 1000 to win a night, most guys have probally 8-14 grand in a motor. but it is way overkill, i have seen a 2000-3000 dollar motor run top 10 without problems before.

[This message has been edited by zeroracing (edited December 18, 2004).]

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted December 18, 2004 10:11 PM  
I think there is some disagreement on what the purpose of the class is supposed to be in the first place.
If the class is intended to address the "cost" aspect of racing a modified then it shouldn't matter how long anyone runs in this class. Those with less resources that want to race a modified belong in this class.
If the B mod class is supposed to be a place for less experienced individuals to learn how to race then I think the class is an unnecessary duplicate of existing classes. Isn't that what the other entry level classes are suppoed to be in the first place?
I personally believe the class is supposed to address the cost aspect first then any others second and therefore there should be no limits on how long anyone runs in the class. On top of that I think everyone would be better off if they simply put adequate controls on the regular modified class in general. If the costs are out of control then control them; if you can't afford to run a mod then run one of the other less expensive classes; if you can't afford these classes then sit in the stands...

[This message has been edited by rickbraley (edited December 19, 2004).]

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted December 19, 2004 09:59 AM  
I raced a bmod in 2003 and I had never raced anything. I think a bmod is a better class to learn about race cars than say a street stock/bomber. The only glaring difference in the a and b cars is the power and how that power difference changes setups.

Xtreme12x
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 874
posted December 19, 2004 11:12 PM  
look for the outlaw style b mods to get even faster this year...

zilla
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 44
posted December 20, 2004 05:09 PM  
and thats racin spend more race for less

pbrcowboy2
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 380
posted December 20, 2004 10:07 PM  
THESE ARE THE BEST RULES FOR A B-MOD THAT I HAVE SEEN TO KEEP COST DOWN ...PERIOD....AND THESE CARS STILL ROCK!!!!

THESE ARE THE RULES FOR BLACKBIRDBEND
SPEEDWAY B-MODS!!!!

The rule and/or regulations set forth herein are designed to provide for the orderly conduct of racing and to establish minimum acceptable requirements for such events. These rules shall govern the condition of all events, and by participating in these events, all participants are deemed to have complied with these rules. No expressed or implied warranty of safety shall result from publications of or compliance with these rules and/or regulations. They are intended as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to a participant, spectator or official. The race director shall be empowered to permit reasonable and appropriate deviation from any of the specifications herein or impose any further restrictions that in his opinion do not alter the minimum acceptable requirements. No expressed or implied warranty of safety shall result from such alteration of specifications. Any interpretation or deviation of these rules is left to the discretion of the officials. Their decision is final.

Revised and updated December 15, 2004. Revisions or clarifications are underlined.

SPECIFIC 360 SPORTMOD RULES

This is an entry-level division. Any driver competing in a Modified or Stock Car division will not be eligible to compete in the 360 Sportmod division. Unless otherwise noted, all parts on these cars are to be approved OEM.

SAFETY: Snell SA90 or SA95 helmet required and must be worn at all times car is on the track and must accompany vehicle at time of inspection. Must have helmet shields or goggles for eye protections. Five point safety belts, sub belt, shoulder harness required (three-inch minimum), with quick release type hookups. Seat belts must not be more than three-years old. Aluminum high back seats only and must be bolted in next to left side frame rail and ahead of rear tires. Bottom of seat can be no lower than bottom of frame rail. Roll bar padding (Fire retardant recommended) required in driver compartment. SFI approved full fire suit, fire retardant neck-brace, gloves and shoes required (Fire retardant head sock and underwear recommended). Arm restraints or drivers-side ribbon or mesh window net (minimum 16-inch by 20-inch, no string-type nets) required. Window net to be mounted so latch is at top front of window. Kill switch required within easy reach of driver clearly marked ‘OFF’ and ‘ON’. Fully charged fire extinguisher in secured bracket mandatory, within drivers reach.


ROLL CAGE: Must consist of continuous hoops not less than 1.666-inch outside diameter with a wall thickness of at least .095-inch. Low carbon, mild steel tubing is recommended. Must be frame-mounted in at least six places. No brazing or soldering allowed. Must consist of a configuration of front and rear hoops connected by tubing on the sides or side hoops. Driver's head must not protrude outside cage with helmet on and strapped in driver's seat. Must have minimum of one cross bar in top halo of roll cage. Roll cage must be securely supported and braced. Protection of feet is mandatory. Bar across back of engine with vertical bars and rub rails, or similar protection. No brace bars forward of cage may be higher than stock hood height. Main cage no further forward than engine plate. Minimum of three driver side door bars, at least 1.5-inch O.D., must be as parallel with the ground as possible, and located perpendicular to the driver so as to provide maximum protection for driver, but without causing undue difficulty in getting into or out of vehicle. The sidebars must be welded to the front and rear of the roll cage members. Must have at least one cross door bar, minimum 1.25-inch O.D., on passenger side of car, either horizontal or angled. Steel doorplates, 18-gauge or .049-inch minimum thickness metal, must be securely welded to outside of door bars on driver's side. Plate must cover the area from the top door bar to the bottom door bar and from the rear down post to five inches in front of the seat. Must be visible for inspection.


BODY AND FRAME: Any legal IMCA or WISSOTA type frame or body. Frame may not be widened or narrowed and must be able to support roll cage on both sides. Front cross member may be notched for radiator clearance only. Minimum frame and body height from ground is four-inches (exception; front cross member). Front suspension and steering must be unaltered OEM and in stock location. Stock passenger car spindles only. No fabricated spindles allowed. Tube-type upper A-frame allowed and can be moved. No coil over shocks, front or rear. No homemade coil covers used anywhere on car. No Jeep, Bronco, etc. or four-wheel drive frames. No sport car or front wheel drive allowed. 108-inch wheelbase minimum on both sides. No tolerance. Protective screen required on two-thirds of windshield opening, starting on divers side, supported by minimum of three equally spaced braces. No wings or spoilers.


WEIGHT: Minimum 2600-pounds with driver, subject to inspection at anytime. Ballast (extra weight) added to car for weight rule conformance must consider all provisions of safety and must be fastened in securely. No sand or shot. Weights must be drilled with studs every four-inches coming through for fasteners. All ballast must weigh at least twenty-pounds, and be painted white with car number painted on it. No ballast in drivers compartment. Ballast must be bolted to the frame and cannot be stacked. If ballast is lost on track during race, car may be subject to fine or disqualification.


ENGINE SPECIFICATI0NS: Steel OEM V-8 block only, no GM Bowtie, Ford SVO or Chrysler W-2 blocks. Stroke must match block. Maximum 361 cubic inches (GM): 363 cubic inches (Ford): 370 cubic inches (Chrysler). No 400 or larger cubic inch parts allowed. Maximum compression ratio is 9.0 to 1, checked at anytime with Whistler. No tolerance. Flattop or dish pistons only, no gas ported pistons. Cylinder heads must be unaltered approved OEM and minimum 76 cc combustion chamber. No Vortec heads, GM approved steel head numbers are – 14079267, 3986336, 3986339, 3986339X, 3986388, 393, 3932441, 376445, 3928454, 3932454, 3876487, 3973487X, 3973493, 330545, 3951598, 3961598, 462624, 468642, 330862, 333881, 333882, 3998920, 3998991, 3998993, 3998997, 3970126; Ford - no after market or SVO heads; Chrysler – no after market or W2 heads, 360 cubic inch heads only. No porting, polishing or alterations of any kind to heads, disqualification and $250 fine if illegal. Engine must appear strictly stock. No 400 or larger cubic inch parts allowed. Stroke must match block. Harmonic balancer may not be altered. Must have unaltered approved OEM cast iron two-barrel or four-barrel intake. No porting, polishing or alterations of any kind to intake. No bowtie or SVO manifold allowed. Disqualification and $250 fine if illegal. No full roller or roller tip rocker arms, roller lifters, or stud girdles. Studs may be pinned or use non-shouldered screw-in type.


EXHAUST: Round tube headers only. All primary header tubes must enter directly into one collector, at same point, at end of header. No exhaust sensors, crossovers or balance tubes.


CARBURETOR: Must use one of three approved naturally aspirated carburetors: OEM GM Rochester two-barrel carburetor (only alterations allowed are booster I.D. may be machined to .250-inch and venturi I.D. machined to 1.375-inch). Unaltered 350 cfm Holley – part no. 0-80787-1 with no modifications. Unaltered stock 500 cfm Holley – part no. – 0-4412. Float bowl must face forward. Any adapter maximum 1-inch thick. Maximum .100-inch gaskets only. Exception: choke plate may be removed. Choke housing must remain in place.


FUEL SYSTEM: No more than 22 gallons of fuel at any time. 32-gallon fuel cell allowed (22-gallon fuel cell recommended). Bladder type recommended. Must be mounted by at least two, solid 2-inch wide by .125-inch thick steel straps, completely around cell. Fuel cell must be enclosed in steel container, bolted securely to mounts welded on frame, behind rear axle, between rear tires and no lower than bumper. Fuel cell must be a minimum of 4-inches ahead of bumper. All fuel cell vents must have check valves. Pick-up outlet must be on top of fuel cell. One fuel filter and fuel line only. No cool cans. No top flow air cleaner housings. Mechanical push rod fuel pumps only.


FUEL: Gasoline only, no ethanol. Pump grade recommended. No performance enhancing or scented additives allowed. Fuel sample may be taken from any car at any time. Penalty for illegal fuel is disqualification from event and $250 fine – first offense.


TIRES AND WHEELS: DOT approved McCreary American Racer tires, G-60 (KK704) with or without IMCA stamped on sidewall. No softening, conditioning, siping/grinding (any trace of grinding will be illegal) or grooving of tires. No re-caps allowed. Eight-inch wheel maximum. Wheels must be stock factory built. Bead lock, on right rear only. No aluminum wheels, hubs, calipers or A-frames or any other suspension parts allowed. No plastic wheels. Calipers cannot be lightened and must be OEM. Rotors cannot be lightened or drilled.


BRAKES AND STEERING: Brakes must be operated on all four-wheels and must lock up all four-wheels during inspection. No brake shut off valves. Steering box must remain OEM. No rack and pinion. Must remain within original bolt pattern from type of frame used. Steering may be modified in the driver’s compartment to suit drivers taste, but must be kept on left side. No center steering allowed.


SHOCKS: One steel non-adjustable, non take-apart, unaltered shock per wheel only. Single hole shock mounts only. No coil over shocks, air shocks, remote reservoir shocks or Schrader valves. Front half of shocks may be shielded. One or all shocks may be claimed per event for $50 each.


TRANSMISSION AND REAR-END: OEM manual transmission (3 or 4 speed). Stock clutch or mini clutch allowed. Aluminum flywheel allowed. Must have FULL SIZE steel bell housing. Flywheel MUST bolt to crank shaft. OR an OEM automatic with a coupler. Must use a hand or clutch pedal operated ball valve for neutral. Must use flywheel shield. All forward and reverse gears must be operational. Ford nine-inch rear-end allowed. Floater recommended. Any passenger car type or truck rear-end may be used. No quick-change devices allowed. No cambered rear-ends allowed. No limited slip devices allowed. Must be solid locking spool only. Seventy Two-inches between back of block and centerline of rear-end. Steel drive shaft (minimum 2.0-inch diameter) and slip-yokes only. Drive shaft must be painted white. 360-degree drive shaft loop required and must be constructed of at least .25-inch steel by two-inch steel, or one-inch tubing, mounted six inches back from front U-joint.


BATTERY AND STARTER: One 12-volt battery only, must be in marine-type case securely mounted in metal frame behind seat or in trunk area. Starter must bolt on block in OEM location and directly engage flexplate/flywheel. Must have capability of starting without being pushed or pulled. Must leave initial staging area on demand, unaided, or go to rear of that race. Bump start will be allowed.


GAUGES AND ELECTRONICS: OEM No transmitting or listening devices, digital gauges. No electronic monitoring computer devices capable of storing or transmitting information except tach. OEM ignition only. OEM firing order cannot be changed. No ignition boxes, remote coil or accessories. All wiring must be visible for inspection. No electronic traction control devices. HEI distributor with MSD traction control detector module may be used.


RADIATOR: Only one radiator in stock location positioned ahead of the engine. No dual radiators. 360-degree metal fan shroud mandatory. All radiator screens must be behind the bumper line (not hanging in front of bumper). Aluminum radiators allowed.


ENGINE CLAIMING RULES:
(A) $425 (U.S.) cash claim on engine, $25 of this goes or wrecker-pulling engine.
(B) Claim does not include - 1. Flywheel, 2. Clutch, 3. Pressure plate, 4. Bellhousing, 5. Valve cover breathers, 6. Carburetor, 7. Starter, 8. Motor mounts, 9. Sending units and switches for oil pressure and water temperature, 10. Fan and pulleys, 11. Clutch ball, 12. Clutch arm, 13. Throw-out bearing, 14. Dip stick, 15. Water pump, 16. Fuel pump, rod and plate, 17. Distributor, 18. Plug wires, 19. Water outlet and restrictor 20. Headers.
NOTE: The first decision to accept or reject claim by claimed driver is binding. No driver may claim more than twice and may only claim a driver once during current season. Promoter can claim at any time once the race event is finished.


FINES: All fines will be paid to divisions track points fund.


NUMBERS AND IDENTIFICATION: Numbers must be 24-inches tall by 3-inches wide, and must be located on the doors on both sides of the car. Any letters must be half as large (twelve-inches) as the numbers. Numbers must be single color with contrasting outline. No metallic or prism vinyl numbers without solid colored outlines allowed. A six-inch square number plate with car number and attached to the windshield area so as not to obstruct vision is mandatory. One FREE policy; first visit to Blackbird Bend Motorsports Speedway will not require a number fee registration information must be completed, on second visit a $20 number fee will be deducted from that nights purse check. Please obtain or check on the availability of your desired number before painting your racecar. Numbers may be purchased from one source only to avoid confusion or duplication problems. Contact by mail, Blackbird Bend Motorsports Speedway, PO Box 89, Onawa, IA 51040.


IMCA SPORTMOD WILL BE ALLOWED TO COMPETE UNDER IMCA SPECIFICATIONS.

!!!!!ALSO ANY REARSETUP CAN BE USED!!!!!

[This message has been edited by pbrcowboy2 (edited December 20, 2004).]

pbrcowboy2
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 380
posted December 20, 2004 10:11 PM  
When i go to Eagle Raceway Im gonna just shed some weight, throw a 4479 holley 4 barrel on the car and run the 1/3rd mile track!!!!

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted December 22, 2004 08:29 PM  
I dont know of anybody that ran anything other then a leaf or 3link setup here at Blackbird Bend Speedway!!!!



pbrcowboy2
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 380
posted December 24, 2004 09:08 AM  
Here is the 2005 IMCA SportMod Rules!!!!
http://www.lubbockmotorspeedway.com/sportmodrules.htm

chas28
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 9
posted December 29, 2004 05:26 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by Wildside17:
How long should a driver stay in Bmods before moving to amods?they are trying to get the chevrolet crate engine rule in the bmod class at quincy il.donelson ia and burlington ia. i think it is a good idea this class is for entry level racers. if you have to spend over 5 grand on a motor it makes it harder to get new racers started in a class like this. you could spend another 3 grand and buy a alky carb alu. heads and a roller cam and run a mod. with this motor rule you could buy a used car for 3 grand a motor for 3 grand and go racing. less money than a new 4 wheeler,fishing boat ect. as for as limiting the rear supension at the above tracks you have 4-z leaf spring all have won there share. i have let a amod driver use my car for a nite with a 2bl in the a mod class and finished top 5, and a lot of specials the bmods have ran in the top 10 if the track slicks off. this is a good class to race does not cost as much to race and where we race is very competive and not near as serious as the a guys. around here the bmod car count is a lot better than the amod.i ran bmod cars sense 1992 and have just retired becase i am getting to old and fat to race. i say keep racing bmod it is a fun class and if you domnate take the money and keep the trophys because it probley wont last long.

[This message has been edited by Wildside17 (edited December 17, 2004).]



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