Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   brakes on birdcage or on rearend ??
paulickr
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 110
posted October 26, 2004 07:19 AM  
i run a dw8 with a 4-z rear. i am changing birdcages and want to know whats everyones opinion on where to locate the brakes. on the bircage or clamped to the rearend and what effects can i expect from each.
right now i run a-1 cages aND HAVE THE BRAKES CLAMPED TO THE REAR AND I AM CHANGING TO A STEEL CAGE THAT IS GREASED AND HAVE BEEN TOLD ITS BEST TO HAVE THE BRAKES ON THE CAGE. WHY???

Dman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 270
posted October 26, 2004 08:52 AM  
Brakes on the bird cages cause the suspension to bind under braking forces and create other erratic chassis reactions.Braking forces should be handled through the pullbar or torque arm and not the control arms.Smoother is faster.

Chad
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 269
posted October 26, 2004 09:22 AM  
You have raised a good question, and I've thought about it, too. I run a DW8 4-link and recently changed from the A1's to BSB birdcages. The way I look at it, if you attach the brakes to the birdcages, the upper link becomes a brake floater, which will bind the suspension as stated by Dman. I feel the reason we use the birdcages is to float the suspension to keep it free. The only thing that keeps me thinking about putting the brakes on the birdcages, is that most late models have them mounted that way, and they wouldn't do it if it hurt performance. If you had success with the brakes on the housing, I'd keep it that way.

Dustejr73
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 177
posted October 26, 2004 11:11 AM  
for what is is worth I run a dw8 4-z and i have my brakes on seperate floaters. i have used this setup for a couple years now and i am real happy with it.

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted October 26, 2004 11:25 AM  
i know this will spark a debate but i run a clamped brake on the lr and a floated on seperate floater(not on birdcage) the rr brake. then i can tune the entry by tigtening or loosening the brakeing, also i run a left side on upside down on the right, and run the bar to the lower link mounts. i really like it that way.

dirtywrench13
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 324
posted October 26, 2004 11:36 AM  
sounds pretty trick ZERO. Could you possibly put up a picture for some of us that are limited in imagination? If not it's understandable.

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted October 26, 2004 03:48 PM  
car is a bare frame right now so it will be a few weeks. but i will get one. or just lay it out and take a pic.

joeltjen
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 182
posted October 26, 2004 10:30 PM  
my calipers are attached to my birdcages and i'm thinking of changing to either floated or clamped. car is a swing arm on both sides and i cant get enough rear brake in the car. went to equal size masters last night of racing and cranked them all the way to the rear and car was still tight under braking. i'm thinking with the brakes on the cage it's trying to wrap the swing arms back up and trying to pull the rear end up under the car. any thoughts on this?????? thanks, john

------------------

37mod
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 36
posted October 27, 2004 06:20 AM  
All the harris 4bars come with bracket on birdcage, I ran my 4bar 2bar with it on there and found out I can tighten the car in the corner by giving it more brake pedal. I also thought about changing it but decided if the car was to loose I could tighten it up with brake because when the birdcage rolls forward it cranks bite in the car



FlyNLoIMCA17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted October 28, 2004 12:57 AM  
If you can't get enough rear brake in the car you may want to consider different pads. Meaning using a different compound brake pad on the rear than on the front. If you are running the "metric" calipers.......... that system is notorious for NO rear brake.

rocket36
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 209
posted October 28, 2004 04:01 AM  
floated or clamped, i had the same discussion with anthony at rocket chassis with regards to our late model. he recommended to run the brake floated on the right rear on big,slick 1/2 mile tracks with tight corners. this setup will tighten your corner entry by holding weight on the right rear via the top 4 bar rod. otherwise most times brakes will be clamped.

Dman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 270
posted October 28, 2004 07:53 AM  
If you don't have good rear brakes with metric calipers ou don't have the right combination. To fix this use a 7/8" master cyl. for the rear .A 1"master cyl. for the front with stock pads.Use a set of Hawk black racing pads on the rear only (about $55.00 a set).This combination will work.Make sure your brake balance bar is working correctly and is not bent.You should have more than enough rear brake this way.Good luck!

joeltjen
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 182
posted October 28, 2004 10:35 PM  
thanks everybody. yes, dman, that was next on or list to try( gotta wait till april now though..) we started the season with the 1" on the rear and 7/8" up front but as we got the car to work better the brakes started to be a problem. also thinking about floating at least the right side if not both or clamping the left to the axle. does anybody think the brakes being on the cages now could be wrapping them up (swing arms both sides) and unloading the rear wheels???? thanks again, john

midmod34
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 119
posted October 30, 2004 04:13 PM  
hawk makes a better pad that is used in road racing that is better than the blacks and wont chew up the rotors. Have had the same rotors on the car for 3 seasond now still in perfect shape.

Back to the Archives