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Author Topic:   Pullbar for 4 link or 4 link - zlink DW8
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 98
posted September 21, 2004 04:21 PM  
I'm converting my DW8 3link over to a 4 bar or 4bar-zlink in about two weeks. I need to know what is the best pullbar to use on this set-up? I have a DW biscuit bar know, but I'm never totally for sure when the biscuit it still good. Would like to try something different. I have heard that there is a new style of pull bar coming out that has one spring in it and you can set it from a 600 pd to 1000 pd spring just by adjusting the back four bolts on the pullbar.

Also on a 4bar car in the top of the rearend housing mounted at a offset on the rearend housing. My 3 link is offset to the left about 2 inch know I was wondering if I should move it over for the 4 bar.
All information would be helpful.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 753
posted September 23, 2004 06:20 PM  
Moving the pull bar over to either side is an adjustment. Move it to the left to load the left rear more than the right rear under acceleration. Put it in the center to load the rear tires equally. I had a 3 link car with the biscuit bar, now I have a four bar car that I recently converted to a 4 bar LR and 3 link style RR. I use the Afco progressive SPRING pull bar, it works good for me. Not to say its better than any others but I changed from the rubber type to the spring and noticed better forward bite. But I've never had a spring type that did not have a progressive spring, so I don't know if straight-up springs, so to speak, are better or worse. Hope this helps at least a little.

Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 87
posted September 24, 2004 11:17 AM  
We converted from 3-link to 4-bar/Z this year and also switched from the Monty bar to the new Afco design. We also believe that forward bite is much better with the spring bar. A couple of things about the Afco bar that we have had trouble with this year, though: 1. Run oversize washers on BOTH SIDES of the rubber cushion, we had it pull right over the jam nuts the first night, 2. Check the large fine thread bolt on the end of the slider shaft OFTEN, 3. If you don't run a torque arm, you will need at least a 1200# spring. The 1050 will go into coil bind. Be careful that you are not topping out the 10-90 shock if you are running one.

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