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Author Topic:   Ride height adj / problem
govitt1
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted August 04, 2004 10:10 AM  
Have a 3 link swingarm car that seems to handle great. Car scales good but I have never adjusted the ride height. The problem is the rf upper A only has about 1/4 inch of downward (frame up arm down) travel before it hits the frame. Every time I hit hole or realy rought track I bend or break the front tube. The car rides high at 71/4" right front and only 5 1/2" left front. If I take turns out of the rf wieght jack I get more clearance. Can I fix this problem with out affecting the handleing of the car?

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted August 04, 2004 10:37 AM  
What kind of car or at least what stub is it?

When you put bite in the car to get it to scale good, do you jack on one corner or all 4? You should be able to reset your ride height and then to get the bite you need adjust all 4 corners at one time. Example if you need more bite put 1 turn down on LR and RF and 1 turn up on LF and RR. This should add bite but not affect ride heights too much.

govitt1
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted August 04, 2004 10:49 AM  
The car has a metric stub. I haven't had to adjust a whole lot but when I do I will usually adjust all four. The car had this problem when I got it but it cost me a main event two weeks ago and me upper A is bent again already. Should I just unwind all the jacks to lower the ride height and then start over and try to get back to my scale numbers?

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted August 04, 2004 11:16 AM  
I am not real familiar with metric stubs so I am not sure what is common for ride heights with them but I am pretty sure you shouldnt have that much difference from side to side. You might try setting your ride heights so that your lower a frames are level. I know on the Chevelle stubs that is pretty close anyway, might work for your metric too, unless you know what the ride heights are supposed to be. Then try to get your right sides about 1/4" higher than the left and 1/4-1/2" higher from front to back. Then put it on the scales and work all 4 corners keeping an eye on the heights to get your % back.

NJantz
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted August 04, 2004 12:10 PM  
Since everyone measures ride heights at different points on the frame, you might try this. Set the front end ride height so the lower control arms are basically parallel to the floor, then take about 2 rounds out. If memory serves me correctly, this will get you about 5" of clearance between the bottom of the metric cross member and the floor.

I have had my a-arm tube hit the frame as well. So I've gone in and remodeled the frame in that area to give me more clearance.

Your RF ride height seems a little hi. I usually try to get around 6-1/2". Yes, if you take turns out you'll get more clearance.

If you want to fix the problem without affecting the car then I'd put the car on the scales and then start adjusting the ride height.

[This message has been edited by NJantz (edited August 04, 2004).]

paulickr
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 110
posted August 05, 2004 05:02 AM  
I HAD A SPEEDWAY CHASSIS ON A METRIC STUB LAST SEASON AND WE SET IT AT 5-1/2LF 6"RF (MEASURED FROM THE GROUND TO THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE FRAME . YOU CAN RUN TAPE MEASURE THROUGH ONE OF THE FRAME HOLES NEAR THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE FRAME BEND BUT DO THE SAME ON BOTH SIDES THEN LOOK UNDER THE CAR AT THE MEASUREMENT)

THEN IN THE REAR WE MEASURED 6-6-1/4" ON LR FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME AND 6-1/2" TO 7" ON THE RR DEPENDING ON BITE NEEDED.

WE ALWAYS SET A LEVEL ACCROSS THE FRONT LOWER A ARM PIVOT POINTS AND TO THE BALL JOINT PIVOT POINTS THEN SET THE LEFT FRONT SO THE BALL JOINT WAS 14" HIGHER THAN THE LEVEL AND THE RF SO THE BALL JOINT WAS LEVEL OR 1/4" LOWER THAN THE LEVEL. (WE USED THE LEVEL FOR A STRAIGHT EDGE)
HOPE THIS HELPS. AND YES YOU ARE WAY HIGH.

paulickr
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 110
posted August 05, 2004 05:04 AM  
I HAD A SPEEDWAY CHASSIS ON A METRIC STUB LAST SEASON AND WE SET IT AT 5-1/2LF 6"RF (MEASURED FROM THE GROUND TO THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE FRAME . YOU CAN RUN TAPE MEASURE THROUGH ONE OF THE FRAME HOLES NEAR THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE FRAME BEND BUT DO THE SAME ON BOTH SIDES THEN LOOK UNDER THE CAR AT THE MEASUREMENT)

THEN IN THE REAR WE MEASURED 6-6-1/4" ON LR FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME AND 6-1/2" TO 7" ON THE RR DEPENDING ON BITE NEEDED.

WE ALWAYS SET A LEVEL ACCROSS THE FRONT LOWER A ARM PIVOT POINTS AND TO THE BALL JOINT PIVOT POINTS THEN SET THE LEFT FRONT SO THE BALL JOINT WAS 14" HIGHER THAN THE LEVEL AND THE RF SO THE BALL JOINT WAS LEVEL OR 1/4" LOWER THAN THE LEVEL. (WE USED THE LEVEL FOR A STRAIGHT EDGE)
HOPE THIS HELPS. AND YES YOU ARE WAY HIGH.

govitt1
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted August 05, 2004 08:16 AM  
Thanks for all the replies. Going to give your suggestions a try. I appriciate the info.

Kromulous
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 796
posted August 05, 2004 12:18 PM  
Are you running the extended ball joints, upper and lower?

Running into the same trouble myself using the AFCO type A-Arms. I'm not hitting on the frame, but i cant get enough downward angle on the upper arm to get the proper camber gain i want.

I'm looking into runninng the extended upper ball joints by coleman machine. There adjustable and you can shim up the upper control arm a 1/2" higher than a stock piece. This may buy you the clearnace you need, plus add some camber gain to the right front.

Not to sure if i would try the extended lowers or not, seemd like it would make the problem worse, unless you were to run the pinto spindles. They give you a .2 th's of an inch more ride height (spindle is closer to the ground) Although running the extended lowers, with the pinto spindles will get you a better roll center in the front as well.

Perfect metric set-up to me would be a Metric stub w/ Nova lowers (Tubular ones from Pierce), extended lower Ball joints, pinto spindles and rotors, extended upper ball joints, and the swedge tubed upper A-arms with the screw in ball joints. Plus you would need the swedge type tie rods and spindle extensions to get it all square.

Look into the extended / adjustable upper ball joints for now, those should buy you some clearnce.

govitt1
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted August 05, 2004 02:20 PM  
I run the extended screw in type ball joint on top, stock lowers with metric spindles and the swedge type upper A's. Currently the front swegde mount is only about an inch above the frame rail. I considered raising the mount another inch but I'm not familiar enough with front end geometry to figure out what other changes that would make.

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