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Author Topic:   Alcohol
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 104
posted June 16, 2004 04:24 AM  
Running the engine at 180 degrees should burn most of the methanol out of the crank case. If the engine is cool after a run, let it idle until 180 degrees or more is reached. Do you have a lean out valve?

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 104
posted June 16, 2004 07:14 AM  
A couple of things:

Alcohol in your oil is definitely a problem. Alcohol present in the oil usually comes from too rich on the jets, or if your idle fuel pressure is TOO HIGH, it will wash by the rings. You have to get rid of the milky oil ASAP, some alky will burn off, but it might take too long and hurt your motor in the meantime.

Second: If you are running a KSE with the pill setup, it probably went south. We had to switch our KSE over to an external regulator after the first season. I don't know why, but the KSE pill setup starts getting screwy after a while. I have buddies who have run the pill deal for 4 years with no problem, and others who had to change it after 6-8 nights. The KSE's typically idle at too high a pressure, and then they lose pressure as the rpm's get to the max. resulting in rich wash at idle, and lean out and high engine temp at race speed.

Easiest solution, take out the pill, spring, o-rings, and diverter block(little square thing), and buy a 2-stage barry grant fuel regulator made for alky. It's easy to set and calibrate, plumbing instructions are included.

Your idle pressure should be NO MORE than 3 psi at 1500rpm. 2 psi is better. More than this and the needles won't hold and the cylinders get washed. Idling at 5 psi could cause your milky oil. Also note, on the BG regulator, the jets which come installed in the return system for setting idle pressure are WAY too small. I think like 75's or something, you have to go up to let more fuel go back to tank, I think we are closer to 90-95 jets, it takes 3-4 sizes in jump to make much of an idle pressure change.

Race pressure on Alky should be around 10 psi. More is not necessarily better, because you will begin to artificially change your flow and jetting curve. We usually set it at 3500-4000 rpms with the regulator in the pits, and then watch it during hot laps for further adjustment. Remember, fuel pressure changes with rpm and LOAD on the motor. The harder you pull the motor, like on a tacky track, the fuel pressure will drop because of load, and engine temp may go up as a result.

Talk to Willy's about jetting your carb, but be forwarned, some of the things they will tell you might be a little off the wall. That's wky I bought a BRASWELL carb!!

I hope this gives you some ideas, and good luck!!

[This message has been edited by sdracer12 (edited June 16, 2004).]

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 104
posted June 16, 2004 09:34 AM  
You will get most of the alcohol out by just draining and changing the filter. When the temp comes up above 180 degrees in the motor, it will burn off the rest. You really shouldn't need to flush the motor out, when everything is close it will take care of itself.

Keep an eye on the temp and oil pressure when racing, both good indicators of jetting. Make sure you're running good oil which likes alcohol, and you can never check/change the oil filter too much. We usually cut it apart after every other show.

Good luck!!

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 233
posted June 16, 2004 10:31 AM  
I have had this for a long time. I change my oil every 3 races and do not worry about the milky color. I make sure that my oil pressure and coolant temp are good and just go with that. I do not run any kind of fuel return to the fuel cell. I also do not run a regulator or fuel pressure gauge. You can buy a fuel pump that is made for alcohol and it will pump the pressure that you need (hence not needing a fuel return, regulator, or fuel pressure gauge). That is my 2 cents. I have also never had any motor problems because of the milky oil. Just make sure you oil pressure is staying up.

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