Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   I'm new and need help!!!!!!
DirtModified72
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 7
posted May 03, 2004 03:03 PM  
Hey guys/gals. I'm new to IMCA modifieds, and really don't know much about them. I have some questions that I hope to get honest answers to:

I'm going to be running a dry 1/4 mile track. What carb, intake, ignition, heads, and tranny would you recommend? What kind of port work needs to be done on the intake and heads to be competitive?

Thanks in advance, I'm sure more questions will follow!

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted May 03, 2004 04:01 PM  
A lot of it will depend on what you want to spend. If you are willing to lay out some cash here is generally what i would do. PM me if you want more specifics. Get you a good custom built carb, gas or alky either one. Gas is gaining popularity though and alky doesnt have as much advantage as it used to. Overall engine id go 355(less expensive to build) or since you are on a tight track 383 or 406. Something like 12.5:1 or better compression. If you have the cash get a good steel crank and rods and forged pistons. Intake i would get either a Victor Jr or Super Victor. I would get a set of World Products or DArt heads and run them as is dont worry about port work yet. They will outflow pretty much any ported stock head right out of the box. Plus they are made for racing and will hold up better and allow your engine program to expand in the future. Ignition: MSD 6 series box, billet distributor, Moroso race wires. Tranny: Brinn, bert, falcon etc (I am partial to Brinn). There really is no comparison to stock tranny.


mod70
unregistered Total posts: 2007
posted May 03, 2004 04:57 PM           send a private message to dirtbuster   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/QuoteBBBBBB
Hey 72, I'm located in K.C., Mo. and I've got a 355 for sale. Don't know if that's too far for you to go, but if you're intrested e-mail me at modjockey@comcast.net
It comes with double hump heads, Vic. Jr. intake, no carb or dist. but it's a solid piece for $1500. Has about 20 races on it since last rebuild.

[This message has been edited by mod70 (edited May 03, 2004).]

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted May 03, 2004 07:17 PM  
to run a budget. get dart or protopline heads, falcon tranny. good 350 block, stock crank, eagle i beam rods(stock x rods will work) decent pistons hyper....(cant spell). dont go overboard on compression and it will last along time, and a jrmotorsports claimer crank and cheap lifters.
then get a super victor intake and a decent carb(not the most expensive, but one that will not be messed up every week).
for dist. get a dui kit and pit it in a good stock dist.

alot of people say this is too small, but i have ran it alot, and it will last and run with any car especially on a dryslick track.
and most guys get way too mcuh motor when they first start and just tear up everything. go little till you get the hang of it, you will save money in the long run.

NJantz
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted May 04, 2004 07:10 AM  
I don't know what kind of engine experience you have, but a very cost effective route to take for a claimer motor is to by an assembled short block from JR Motorsports or Midwest Motorsports and buy some World or Dart heads for it. I'd at least put a steel crank in it.

For the carb, I use a Barry Grant Race Demon 750. It has been on the car for 5 years and never given me any problems.
Gaerte Saturday night specials are also good carbs. A buddy has one or two of them that are brand new if you are interested let me know and I'll hook you up.

As far as intakes go, the edelbrock victor juniors are very common and work great.

Most guys dont port anything on the heads and intake if they run Dart or World.
I use an HEI ignition. You might try to build your own hi-po HEI distributor or by one that is already tricked out from DUI. Unless you have a good stock HEI laying around its probably just as cheap to by the DUI HEI. A lot of guys hate the HEI and use MSD style ignitions. I have no idea whats best. You might consider a rev limiter from MSD. They are fairly cheap and good insurance.

Out of the Bert/Brinn/Falcon tranny's. The falcon is probably the lowest priced. But it will be a reliable unit. Same with the other two brands. I don't recommend Powerglides. You will be money ahead to buy a racing manual trans now. Don't trick yourself into thinking a powerglide is cheaper. I chunked about 7 of those stupid things in 3 years.

If you get a bert/brinn/Falcon you'll also need a bellhousing, clutch pedal, master cylinder, coupler, clutch line.

I see you are from Dallas. I am from Mckinney and race at Kennedale most of the time. If you need any help call me:
972-562-0425. Where do you plan on racing?

Good Luck,

Nate

DirtModified72
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 7
posted May 04, 2004 08:13 AM  
Thanks for the info guys! Your help is REALLY appreciated!

Does anyone know of a complete falcon setup out there anywhere? Looking for clutch and ALL. Actuall, I'm looking for 2 so I have a spare.

So on the short blocks, the cast cranks are holding up? I had one guy tell me he ran a cast crank, GM powder rods with hardend bolts with a Melling 525" cam. I understand that you don't need any horses on a dry track, but my goodness! I want it to be fast and stay together too. I mean if this works, great, saves $$$$$.

What kind of RPMS should I expect to turn?

Nate, thanks for the phone number, if I run into problems I'll call. I work in Princeton. We'll probably run at Greenville to start out with. I want to get the feel of the car first, I've never driven a "big" car. We've ran mini sprints until now.

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted May 04, 2004 09:40 AM  
I wouldnt spend the money to buy a spare tranny. You shouldnt have any trouble with a racing trans. FYI: the clutch is inside the tranny so you do not need to find one. Just a bellhousing and tranny and coupler is all you need. Personally I would lean towards the Brinn and its only like 100$ more. Are you loooking for a used setup or a new one?? Some parts warehouses sometimes have special prices on entire setups. Also depending on whether you will run IMCA or not you will need to decide bewteen a steel bellhousing or the aluminum ones made by the tranny manufacturer.

Take the money from the second tranny and put into your motor. That should cover the cost of steel crank and decent rods. Its true you dont need a lot of HP on a slick track but you also dont want to blow it up on a tacky night. You might get stock stuff to last awhile but its really a timebomb in my opinion. Get a good cam and expect to turn 7000 or so.

NJantz
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted May 04, 2004 10:04 AM  
I'd save my money and not bother with a spare trans either.

Engines are all about what you want to spend. The better material your rotating parts are made out of the longer you engine will stay together and the higher rpms you can turn. You'll want to turn around 6700-7000 rpm for the average claimer engine.

I live just a few miles off of HWY 380 and ran minisprints before I got into this mod thing.



zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1875
posted May 04, 2004 10:16 AM  
dont over motor it, alot of guys get way to big of motor to start out with and just tear up cars. also as far as rpm's you will turn about what they are telling you, but talk to other drivers, i usually only turn like 6400 max and i am passing cars that are at 7200 rpm and we have the same gear....most people way over wheelspin mods so dont do that.

Back to the Archives